So I told the boss....

[Mark Wooden]

It sounds to me like your're asking about both consumables and specialized hand tools.

Consumables-drill bits, countersinks, router bits, cope & jigsaw blades, battery drill & screw bits(I feel drills should be shop supplied), card scrapers, files, knife blades, sharpening stone, set of bench chisels, bench plane & irons, ROS & paper, air tools and nailers- all supplied by the shop for exclusive use by the worker at that bench. Shop also supplies all clamps.
How the tools are used and kept are part of the employees continuing evaluation.

Layout tools- good quality square(s), rules, marking knives, nail sets, compass, dividers (small set, large are shop owned) scribes, block planes, hammer, handsaw(s), chisels, (sharpening paid by shop) and whatever smalls are favored by the particular worker- these should be in the employees tool box, used as needed to produce the work required. Shop will often pick up the cost of replacement and upgrades.

Specialized layout tools, specialized hand tools (as would be used in veneering)- again, these should be shop owned, supplied and maintained- layout rules 24" & up, protractor heads, steel(framing)square, spring mitre clamps, veneer saws and hammer, good quality paint brushes, etc..

Sorry, but it sounds like you're looking to line your tool kit at the bosses expense. You should talk to your boss about tools you need to do his work, not just a bunch of nice stuff for you to have.
Case in point- I had a guy work for me for about four months, said he was a cabinetmaker. Showed up with a rusty hammer and a few beat screwdrivers. I set up a bench as described and set him up with a good Starrett combo set , set of four Marples chisels , small back saw, etc.. Started training him in their use. He disappeared one Friday, and so did about $500 worth of tools- and he never really did make me any money per se-

[Rick Malakoff]

When I had a shop and trucks with 6-8 guys the only thing I refused to buy were pencils and tape measures and on Friday morning I picked up breakfast burritos!
Before that when I was a young and hired out for lack of my own work I always brought my personal tools to the job, but not so much as when doing cabinet shop work. JMTC

Rick

[jack duren]

I gave him a partial list just to see where it goes..

Robert Larson Company 560-3250 Miter Clamp We make a lot of chalk boards for Chilli's
Bow clamps as we make a lot of 30"x12' torsion boxes...
Amana 15pc FO-700
Metric/standard/brad point drill sets.

Any ideals on the drill bit sets?

I actually need a good hole saw kit as well...

[jack duren]

It sounds to me like your're asking about both consumables and specialized hand tools.

Consumables-drill bits, countersinks, router bits, cope & jigsaw blades, battery drill & screw bits(I feel drills should be shop supplied), card scrapers, files, knife blades, sharpening stone, set of bench chisels, bench plane & irons, ROS & paper, air tools and nailers- all supplied by the shop for exclusive use by the worker at that bench. Shop also supplies all clamps.
How the tools are used and kept are part of the employees continuing evaluation.

Layout tools- good quality square(s), rules, marking knives, nail sets, compass, dividers (small set, large are shop owned) scribes, block planes, hammer, handsaw(s), chisels, (sharpening paid by shop) and whatever smalls are favored by the particular worker- these should be in the employees tool box, used as needed to produce the work required. Shop will often pick up the cost of replacement and upgrades.

Specialized layout tools, specialized hand tools (as would be used in veneering)- again, these should be shop owned, supplied and maintained- layout rules 24" & up, protractor heads, steel(framing)square, spring mitre clamps, veneer saws and hammer, good quality paint brushes, etc..

Sorry, but it sounds like you're looking to line your tool kit at the bosses expense. You should talk to your boss about tools you need to do his work, not just a bunch of nice stuff for you to have.
Case in point- I had a guy work for me for about four months, said he was a cabinetmaker. Showed up with a rusty hammer and a few beat screwdrivers. I set up a bench as described and set him up with a good Starrett combo set , set of four Marples chisels , small back saw, etc.. Started training him in their use. He disappeared one Friday, and so did about $500 worth of tools- and he never really did make me any money per se-

This isn't a cabinet shop...

[jack duren]

To clear this up.

This has nothing to do with a raised. If I want more money I'd ask.

[jack duren]

I suggested the Colt Maxi-cut Forstners. Ive bought a lot of american and even Euro made bits. But these German made ones just work so much better. And last. Butm if you looked at the link, they are not inexpensive...

Its hard to suggest tools when (A) I have no idea what your job is, and (B) I have no idea what you already have.

Do you do a fair bit of hand work? I have probably 20 Lee Valley and Lie Nielsen hand planes in our shop, a ton of measuiring and layout tools, several hand saws etc. Are you more looking for power hand tool suggestions or pure hand tools?

I hate to say it (again due to the cost) but I find the Festool drill bits the absolute best for wood. I used to think our two kits of Lee Valley brad points (a kit they resharpen from a quality twist drill kit) were it, but after a few sets of the Festool ones, I think they cut better and leave an even cleaner entry (and more importantly, exit) hole.

Give a bit of guidance and Ill suggest more.

I've always been an Amana guy. Do you feel the Colt Maxi-cut Forstners are better?

Hand planes are out. No time for this . We have Festool but haven't really dug into everything they have...

[Jim Becker]

r?

Hand planes are out. No time for this .

Jack, IMHO, every woodworker should have a quality block plane (I prefer the low angle version) to quickly deal with many things that come up when fitting materials for projects. It's not about working the material from rough to finished; rather, it's about precision. I rarely use my other, larger hand planes, although they do get use, but my block planes? Every project.

[jack duren]

Jack, IMHO, every woodworker should have a quality block plane (I prefer the low angle version) to quickly deal with many things that come up when fitting materials for projects. It's not about working the material from rough to finished; rather, it's about precision. I rarely use my other, larger hand planes, although they do get use, but my block planes? Every project.

Jim I've had hand planes for over 30 years. I have yet to find a reason to pull them out in the last 30 years.

Not trying to be smart here but here is a question....Do you think you need hand planes to reach my level or do I need hand planes to reach yours?

[Andrew J. Coholic]

I've always been an Amana guy. Do you feel the Colt Maxi-cut Forstners are better?

Hand planes are out. No time for this . We have Festool but haven't really dug into everything they have...

Everything I've used Amana, I've found better product elsewhere. That's my opinion. They're ok but not the best.

[Andrew J. Coholic]

Jim I've had hand planes for over 30 years. I have yet to find a reason to pull them out in the last 30 years.

Not trying to be smart here but here is a question....Do you think you need hand planes to reach my level or do I need hand planes to reach yours?

how does one answer a question like that with many unknowns?

however I can't imagine not having a good sharp plane(s) in the shop. We're predominantly a wood and veneers shop with little melamine. Very well equipped for what we do. Prob not a day goes by one of us grabs a plane for at least one small job. Sometimes it's just a faster/easier/better way. Similarly with a hand saw. But not saying you need to as well. It's just another tool in the shop.

[Jim Becker]

Jim I've had hand planes for over 30 years. I have yet to find a reason to pull them out in the last 30 years.

Not trying to be smart here but here is a question....Do you think you need hand planes to reach my level or do I need hand planes to reach yours?

I thought I was being pretty clear that it was a suggestion for a small block plane to potentially be on your list, which I find to be an essential tool, even with all the great power tools I (and you) use in the shop to do the majority of the work we respectively do. It has nothing to do with our "levels of work" which wouldn't be fair to compare. I'm just a serious amateur who does woodworking for enjoyment and you are a pro who makes his living in woodworking. I've found that little tool to be very useful in fitting and other things in a wide variety of project types. I don't know if you will or not. Only you can do so.

[Neil Gaskin]

We have a Freud fostner bit set that I've been happy with. Same with Fisch brad point bits.

https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Precisi...s=p_89%3AFreud

[jack duren]

I thought I was being pretty clear that it was a suggestion for a small block plane to potentially be on your list, which I find to be an essential tool, even with all the great power tools I (and you) use in the shop to do the majority of the work we respectively do. It has nothing to do with our "levels of work" which wouldn't be fair to compare. I'm just a serious amateur who does woodworking for enjoyment and you are a pro who makes his living in woodworking. I've found that little tool to be very useful in fitting and other things in a wide variety of project types. I don't know if you will or not. Only you can do so.

You are correct, it was a suggestion. But as I mentioned hand planes are out...

[jack duren]

We have a Freud fostner bit set that I've been happy with. Same with Fisch brad point bits.

https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Precisi...s=p_89%3AFreud

At one time I was ordering a 35mm Amana bit and it was suggested by the salesman to get the Freud. He said they were better. I have never done a test on the forstner bits but have tested there panel bits and found Amana superior. Maybe its different on the forstner bits..

[Brian Holcombe]

Jim I've had hand planes for over 30 years. I have yet to find a reason to pull them out in the last 30 years.

Not trying to be smart here but here is a question....Do you think you need hand planes to reach my level or do I need hand planes to reach yours?

From bandsaw to this; three plane strokes.

That pile of shavings corresponds to the pile of lumber behind me.