I have a wooden insert with a splitter on my 10" saw, and a Woodworker II blade. I don't have any issues.
The rip fence is adjusted to open up about 1/32" at the back of the table.
I have a wooden insert with a splitter on my 10" saw, and a Woodworker II blade. I don't have any issues.
The rip fence is adjusted to open up about 1/32" at the back of the table.
Last edited by lowell holmes; 04-19-2017 at 5:30 PM.
James, if it was my saw I would start with the blade riving knife alignment, make sure (as mentioned by others) that you have the proper knife installed or blade for that matter. Lay a straight edge (must be precise) against both sides of the blade and make sure it does not touch the riving knife, this should eliminate a bent knife. If this checks out proceed with the blade to miter slot alignment, instruction should be in the manual. Next, check the flatness of the fence on a known to be flat surface like your jointer, then line up your fence with the miter slot. Ideally you should have a thou or 2 more clearance on the back of the blade (toward the riving knife) to prevent binding. To do these tests fully raise the blade and set it 90* to the table and mark one tooth on the blade with a sharpie and rotate the blade from front to back to take a measurement from this very same spot to eliminate the blade as the culprit.
It appears that the blade is out by .005 (5 thousandths), while the fence is out by .018 (18 thousandths) from the front to back. What is the target here? I know that 0.000 is probably not realistic, but what should my reasonable goal be? Are these WAY out of alignment, slightly out, or more or less within spec?
were it me, I'd put a carpenters square to the fence for starters. Then, check the squareness of the fence to the saw deck. Squareness is of key importance with a table saw. If the fence isn't square, adjust it to square. Then run a test cut in your plywood. If you still get kick back, then check your riving knife. It might even be a wise move to take a small square, hold it close to your blade & slowly turn it to see if it's bent. jmo.
Sawdust703
If you're sure the blade is "true" and you've eliminated blade wobble (runout) then I would say you need to adjust the table to the blade and try to get it within 1 thou, this is critical. Concerning the fence, you should be able to adjust the "toe out" to 1 to no more then 2 thou, "toe out" meaning the fence opens up from the front of the blade toward the back (away from the operator). Also make sure the fence rail is 100% perpendicular to the the blade along its full length. Measure from the same tooth and rotate this tooth from front to back. A dial indicator and a quality straight edge are your friends.
This can be a tedious procedure, so try not to do this when you're in a time crunch. This might have happened during transport, who knows. The good news is you will likely never have to do this again.
I have never been able to achieve a 0.001 or 0.002 alignment error and I have been tuning table saws since 1977. You won't even find a fence that is that straight. Heck, you will have a hard time buying a precision straight edge that is that straight. Some professionals adjust toe out to 0.005 or 0.010 on purpose, though I have never seen the value in it.
I bought a 3HP PCS SawStop just over a month ago. I was able to get the blade parallel to .0005'' (the accuracy of my dial indicator) at 90 degrees both at height and below. I'm around .001'' at 45 degrees. Adjusting the blade at full heigh is super easy, it has set screws to adjust that move it back and forth, no need to bump and pray to get it aligned properly. I did not use the SawStop fence, and instead, put on an Incra TS-LS Joinery package, and the fence from start of the table to table to the back of the table is about .002 out total. At the blade, it is between .0005 and .001 off parallel. I figured if I was going to spend the money on great tools, I should spend the time getting it setup right (and read the manual many times to be sure I knew exactly what I should and shouldn't be doing!).
I had forgotten, but I did have an alignment problem. I solved it by purchasing a dial indicator and aligning the rip slot and the blade. I've had no issues since doing it.
I still have the dial indicator. I don't use it any more. They are not expensive.
I hate my cellphone, when I noticed a small but significant error in my post last night I accidentally hit delete while I was typing to fix it - GRRRR .
I'll try to retype it from memory.
I can't believe how these guys can successfully stay in business with their saw this much out of alignment, 0.01" equals 0.254 mm (not 0.0254 mm as I wrote in my original message) and makes it impossible to produce a clean cut in my world - almost dangerous.
I have a 50" Veritas aluminum straight edge from LeeValley which is guaranteed to be within 0.003" over the entire length and the Starrett straight edge is guaranteed to be within 0.0002" per foot.
No decimal error this time, I hope .
I don't mean to insult you, but it sounds like you don't want to read your owners manual. There clearly has to be a way to adjust ANY riving knife. I went to the Sawstop website and read the manual, and its right there on page 77. It took me 2 minutes to find and read. You absolutely need to understand your equipment. Please read the manual thoroughly and understand how to adjust all the critical parts of the saw.
Also on page 90 in the "Trouble Shooting Section" there is one about;
"If Material Binds when Ripping" Trouble shooting.jpg
Last edited by Steve Cowart; 04-20-2017 at 11:16 AM.
Yep, page 77 and 78.
If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!