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Thread: Lathe Spindle Thread Size/Type?

  1. #1

    Lathe Spindle Thread Size/Type?

    Hi guys, I am building a wood turning lathe and want to keep to standard spindle sizes. I want to go with a 1"x 8 TPI but I don't know what type of thread it is. I want to order a die and thread the shaft myself as doing so will probably cost me less than having a machine shop do it for me but I don't know what type of thread these are. Are they National Coarse? Whitworth? What? You know what I'm getting at here.

    I'd like to be able to buy all standard accessories from say Delta that mate to a 1" by 8 threads per inch spindle thread.

    Please advise. Thanks

  2. Good luck with parts from Delta......they have been bought and sold as a company for a number of years now, and it has been hard to get parts for a lot of their equipment. Currently they make a Delta Midi lathe which is outsourced to some company in China........I have one, and it is a decent little midi lathe, but if I were wanting to do what you are proposing, I might get my parts from somewhere else. Just me, and others may have better ideas than I do!
    Remember, in a moments time, everything can change!

    Vision - not just seeing what is, but seeing what can be!




  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Check EBay for parts. Might find something cheaper than buying tap and die.

    http:// www. ebay .com/sch/i.html?_odkw=lathe+head+stock&rmvSB=true&_fspt=1&c ontext=news&_mPrRngCbx=1&_osacat=0&satitle=lathe+h ead+stock&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR 3.TRC2.A0.H0.Xwood+lathe+head+stock.TRS0&_nkw=wood +lathe+head+stock&_sacat=0
    Last edited by Steve Schlumpf; 04-19-2017 at 11:56 AM. Reason: direct links to eBay or any auction site are not allowed

  4. #4
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    Building your own lathe? Big? Personally, going through all that trouble to build, I'd go 1-1/4 spindle size. For a lathe, bigger is better. You can get a 1-1/4 to 1" adapter. Just my $0.02.

  5. #5
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    The standard thread for lathe spindles in the US is UNC (which is short for American National Standard Unified thread- coarse).

    I do some machining and have machined threads in the range of 1" to 1-1/2" using a metal lathe. On a lathe, people do "single point" thread cutting rather than using a die. Sometimes machinists will rough cut on the lathe and do the final cleanup with a die. But using a die manually to cut a full depth thread isn't as simple and foolproof as you might think. It is very easy to apply the die at a slight angle (or conversely, it is almost impossible to apply the die at a perfect 90 degrees using your hands and a die wrench) which will cause the threads to be slightly off axis and lead to some additional runout. Also, you'll probably pay $25 for a die and perhaps another $20 or 30 for a decent die holder. But if you can live with some runout, perhaps it will work for you.

    Another challenge when cutting coarse threads with a die is the amount of force that it will take. It isn't like threading a 1/4 x 20.

    My advice (in response to a post of yours on another thread) would be to try to but a commercially made spindle in the range of $50-75 (as I mentioned in the other thread)

    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Lerner View Post
    Hi guys, I am building a wood turning lathe and want to keep to standard spindle sizes. I want to go with a 1"x 8 TPI but I don't know what type of thread it is. I want to order a die and thread the shaft myself as doing so will probably cost me less than having a machine shop do it for me but I don't know what type of thread these are. Are they National Coarse? Whitworth? What? You know what I'm getting at here.

    I'd like to be able to buy all standard accessories from say Delta that mate to a 1" by 8 threads per inch spindle thread.

    Please advise. Thanks

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Hampton Roads, Virginia
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    894
    +1 on 1.25 x 8 spindle for strength and number of accessories available.

    You will likely be frustrated if you go with Delta. Customer service is poor and parts are hard to get. There are other companies that are much better IMHO.

    You may find this older thread useful
    RD

  7. #7
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    Nov 2006
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    TX, NM or on the road
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    You already have a Shopsmith, the spindle is 5/8". If you have accessories for it, you already have the spur drive and chuck adapters etc.. On this lathe build if you use a 5/8" shaft, you can use all of the Shopsmith accessories. No machine shop needed unless you want a 2MT adapter. But the "wooden dummy" you are wanting to turn, you will not need to use any 2MT accessories.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Brice Rogers View Post
    The standard thread for lathe spindles in the US is UNC (which is short for American National Standard Unified thread- coarse).

    I do some machining and have machined threads in the range of 1" to 1-1/2" using a metal lathe. On a lathe, people do "single point" thread cutting rather than using a die. Sometimes machinists will rough cut on the lathe and do the final cleanup with a die. But using a die manually to cut a full depth thread isn't as simple and foolproof as you might think. It is very easy to apply the die at a slight angle (or conversely, it is almost impossible to apply the die at a perfect 90 degrees using your hands and a die wrench) which will cause the threads to be slightly off axis and lead to some additional runout. Also, you'll probably pay $25 for a die and perhaps another $20 or 30 for a decent die holder. But if you can live with some runout, perhaps it will work for you.

    Another challenge when cutting coarse threads with a die is the amount of force that it will take. It isn't like threading a 1/4 x 20.

    My advice (in response to a post of yours on another thread) would be to try to but a commercially made spindle in the range of $50-75 (as I mentioned in the other thread)
    I must admit I had not considered the run out issue.......just thought all would line up properly once threaded. I now see my misguided thinking.
    I have many things working against my favor here in Mexico. North of the border you can order pretty much anything and it will show up at your doorstep a few days later. Down here it makes it to the border and then someone decides they need it more than you do and it never arrives. Couriering is about all that works with any regularity but the cost is prohibitive. So that leaves having things done locally - the larger material one chooses to work with the greater your odds are that you won't find anyone with the tools to do the work for you. So I decided to stay with 1"x 8tpi.

    I only used Delta as a reference or as an example of a brand name that used 1"x 8tpi. I did not intend to have it read that I would only use Delta parts just for clarification. I believe there are many sources for 1" faceplates, chucks etc. from companies other than Delta.

    Brice, I'm working from the Carlisle plans and they call for an 18" long spindle. I felt that to be very hard to find in a commercially available spindle. Don't you think the same? I checked out the Grizzly site online but could not find any references to replacement spindles or similar searches.

    I felt that going to a larger lathe that I could get away from the Shopsmith's lack of rigidity and small size capabilities. I guesstimate that the dummies will probably weigh in excess of 200lbs before roughing out so I wanted a larger diameter spindle than the Shopsmith's to accommodate the weight. Even if I used all the SS stuff I'd still require a #2 MT on the tailstock to accept either a dead center or a live center. Unless I made a dead center from all thread or other material that had a fixed position on a movable tailstock. I've even considered making the use of two dead centers and drive the spindle between them using a mandrel in the form of a pulley similar to an old style pole lathe. That would be the simplest of all.

    The 1" shaft and flange bearings have already been ordered as well as a few other items keeping with the same sizing.

  9. A 200 pound finished weight will need an even bigger and heavier blank to cut it from. I sure would want the biggest spindle I could get for that size work. Perhaps a jack shaft spindle run with belts and pulleys would be the best way to go.......good luck with your effort! This pic is from the studio of a friend of mine who is a professional turner........Fred Williamson........he made this lathe and uses it for most of his big work, although he does have a PM 3520b as well.

    I think this is mostly a bowl type lathe, but the short ways do have steel plates on them for wear purposes, and to make the banjo easy to move around. His does not have a tailstock shown in the pic, but I think he does have one for that lathe. I think he has some concrete on the inside of the wooden form the lathe is pretty stout.
    Remember, in a moments time, everything can change!

    Vision - not just seeing what is, but seeing what can be!




  10. #10
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    Sep 2015
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    Ian,

    I presume that you are going to have a local machine shop machine the spindle from a piece of steel perhaps around 1-3/4 inches. (They have to start with such a big chunk of metal because behind the spindle threads is the register where the back of the chuck will tightly fit against. Most of the alignment of chuck is actually at the point where the chuck meets the register. That is because the threads have some slop.) They will be doing this on a metal lathe. At the same time they can do the threading of the end of the spindle. In fact, they can do it most easily with the same set-up. Threading is most easily done on a lathe with what is called "single point threading". They put in a cutter with a 60 degree tip and through gearing, it will advance 1/8 of an inch per revolution of the spindle/lathe. When the cutter gets close to the "register" (and into the landing zone where there is a recess and no threads) they will stop the advance. Then the go back to the end of the spindle and do it again taking off another 5 or 10 thousandths. After a number of passes all of the required material in the threaded area will be removed. Some machine shops may stop a few thousandths before quite done and run a die over it to make it more pretty and make it to the final size. Threading the spindle is maybe a 15 minute job so it shouldn't cost much. If they use a dial indicator when setting up the spindle they should be able to get everything on-axis to within a thou.

    It might be good when you get the spindle made to also leave them with your chuck to double check the fit. Or bring it with you before you accept the part.

    In terms of buying individual parts from a company like Grizzly, you need to go to a lathe page (like for the G0766 or G0733) and find the box on the left side that say "buy parts". That will take you to a diagram along with the list of parts and prices. But I understand the issue of "mordida" when it comes to officials at the border. I wonder if there are any people in Mexico who are selling the Mexican equivalent to the G0766 and who might have spare parts. The G0766 is made in China and I think that it is shipped to various countries under different names. Perhaps Roger or others may opine.

  11. #11
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    The size and power has a lot to do with the size of the spindle. That should be considered. Anything over 14" should be at least 1 1/4" and over 1 HP should also be 1 1/4", and over 3 HP possibly bump up to 1 1/2". Check out the manufactured lathes and use that as a starting point. I would not go smaller than standard, but you might want to go larger (stronger) depending on your reason to build a special lathe.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brice Rogers View Post

    I do some machining and have machined threads in the range of 1" to 1-1/2" using a metal lathe. On a lathe, people do "single point" thread cutting rather than using a die. Sometimes machinists will rough cut on the lathe and do the final cleanup with a die. But using a die manually to cut a full depth thread isn't as simple and foolproof as you might think. It is very easy to apply the die at a slight angle (or conversely, it is almost impossible to apply the die at a perfect 90 degrees using your hands and a die wrench) which will cause the threads to be slightly off axis and lead to some additional runout. Also, you'll probably pay $25 for a die and perhaps another $20 or 30 for a decent die holder. But if you can live with some runout, perhaps it will work for you.

    Another challenge when cutting coarse threads with a die is the amount of force that it will take. It isn't like threading a 1/4 x 20.

    My advice (in response to a post of yours on another thread) would be to try to but a commercially made spindle in the range of $50-75 (as I mentioned in the other thread)
    I'll second that. I tried to do this several times, with a die and found no way to get the thread accurate at 90d.
    (I do have a sanding station, where I use a die cut spindle, but it runs around 3 rpm, so wobble doesnt matter).

    My solution was to pay someone to cut the thread on lathe.

    Also, make the spindle as beefy as possible. 1.5" OD or larger. The thread can be smaller obviously.
    Oneway and other have inserts which allow a lot of possibilities. Of course if you currently have a large selection of chucks & face plates, then stick with that size, but then I presume you would not be asking...

  13. #13
    Join Date
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    Here's the spindle part for Grizzly G0766, and the bearings aren't too pricey.
    http://www.grizzly.com/parts/P0766024

    Here's where I found all of the parts: http://www.grizzly.com/products/g0766/parts

    I got a spare of the bearings and spindle just in case.
    Maker of Fine Kindling, and small metal chips on the floor.
    Embellishments to the Stars - or wannabees.

  14. #14
    Buying a spindle like the one Mark linked to would be a good idea if you don't have need for a custom made spindle. I don't believe you could get one like that made without spending quite a bit more. If you can use a solid shaft and don't need the internal taper, might be able to have one made for less. I bet you can get pillow block bearings to fit that shaft.
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