Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: Long hinge screws to fix sagging door

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Ventura, CA
    Posts
    530

    Long hinge screws to fix sagging door

    An suggestions for where to source 2-1/2" long hinge screws?

    The door between the garage and utility room in my GF's place is sagging badly. It is a 1-3/8 solid-core wooden door.

    I'll be drilling out the stripped screw holes in the door and glueing 3/8 dowel plugs so the new screws have something to hold onto.

    The existing screws are 2" long; I'd like to replace them with 2-1/2" screws. I presume these are just ordinary #9 flat-head wood screws. Please let me know if they are somehow special!

    Any thoughts about where to source them? My experience with borg screws isn't the best.

    McFeely's?

    Thanks in advance!

    -Tom in SoCal

  2. #2
    Just use grks or spax.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Eastern KS
    Posts
    406
    Any #8 wood construction screw should work. Put a few toothpick s in the original hole if it's bored out.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    mid-coast Maine and deep space
    Posts
    2,656
    I agree with using GRKs or the like. You will likely need to conterbore the screw hole in the leaf to receive the GRKs with the nibs but this has always worked well for me. Just last week I hung a 113" x 36" wide door that likely weighed 300 lbs. There was no question that a a few long screws in each jamb leaf would be needed. I did just as I described. The color match was more than close enough considering the gain in integrity.

    GRKs are pretty much sold everywhere where construction materials are sold.
    "... for when we become in heart completely poor, we at once are the treasurers & disbursers of enormous riches."
    WQJudge

  5. #5
    I just used some decent 3 1/2" deck screws for a similar situation and they worked like a charm.

    For huge long screws - I recommend a power drive friendly bit shape - square or torx... Definately not flat head for this duty and standard phillips may give you fits...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    McKean, PA
    Posts
    15,647
    Blog Entries
    1
    Make sure there are shims behind the hinges to fill any gaps between the door jamb and the framing so you don't pull the door out of plumb when you tighten the longer screws.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Ventura, CA
    Posts
    530
    Thanks everybody. I'll look for GRK's or Spax.

    the door jamb screws seem to be tight; it is the screws in the door itself that are stripped. I didn't make that clear in my initial post.

    -Tom in SoCal

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    mid-coast Maine and deep space
    Posts
    2,656
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Henderson2 View Post
    Thanks everybody. I'll look for GRK's or Spax.

    the door jamb screws seem to be tight; it is the screws in the door itself that are stripped. I didn't make that clear in my initial post.

    -Tom in SoCal
    Yes - with a more careful reading of your post you do write that you are drilling out the "stripped screw holes in the door".

    Sorry
    - I was thinking of the age old problem of door sag coming from the jamb screws. In your case after filling the holes - I think, simply redrilling and using conventional hinge screws (up to 1-1/2" long) would be adequate. You are solving the problem by starting new with solid wood.
    "... for when we become in heart completely poor, we at once are the treasurers & disbursers of enormous riches."
    WQJudge

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •