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Thread: Making a Spade Bit

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    TX, NM or on the road
    Posts
    642
    Quote Originally Posted by Walter Mooney View Post

    I went to HF yesterday and picked up the type of saw mentioned in the reamer links. I'm going to give the reamer a try, but I REALLY like Larry's bit!
    When you turn your blank for the reamer, add on about an inch on the end with the diameter of the hole that you will start with. It will act as a guide to keep your reamer running true in the hole you are reaming.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    NW Arkansas
    Posts
    164
    Quote Originally Posted by John K Jordan View Post
    BTW, does your bit work the same drilling into the side of a board as well as directly into the end grain as in your picture? I find that hollowing end grain on the lathe is easier than cross grain.

    Also, it looks like the bottom is sharpened to cut. Did you drill the entire hole with that bit or first drill a hole by other means almost (forstner bit, etc) as wide as the bottom of the final hole? That might work well - a lot of people start their hollowing on the lathe like that to save a lot of time and effort.

    JKJ
    John, it drilled about the same in side grain as end grain. I drilled the hole with only the bit shown. No pre-drilling required.

    I was scared that it might chatter some so I made the cutting part out of 1/4 or 5/16" tool steel. With it being that heavy, sharp, and a slow speed it didn't have any tendency at all to chatter. I only made a couple of test holes before sending it off to the user so it may have behaved differently with other woods.
    Larry

  3. #18
    Easy enough to make a spoon bit or a D bit. But they will be slow cutting compared to a proper spade bit. You could get a metal working counter bore taper ground to the needed angle. Any chance your taper angle might be a standard machine taper. Like a morse taper, R8. 5C etc. If it is they make drills and reamers to make or clean up those bores.
    Bill D.

    On edit:
    R8 16.85 degrees
    NMTB 16.5943 degrees

    HSK 30 degrees

    Maybe have one of these reground/sharpened to 15 degrees.
    Last edited by Bill Dufour; 05-03-2017 at 8:45 PM.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Lucas, Texas
    Posts
    926
    Seems like you're off and running in another direction, but thought I'd toss this in the ring - just 'cuz no one else has.

    With stock that's 6 x 12 x 3/4, it seems like it would fit in a 4-jaw chuck of a engine lathe. Pre-drill your hole to just under the final minor diameter with the tail stock; then cut the required taper with a standard tool post in the compound rest. Simple...?
    Molann an obair an saor.

  5. #20
    I haven't read all the responses but Carbide Processors sells router bit blanks that came to mind when I saw Larry's bit earlier in this thread.

    http://www.carbideprocessors.com/sou...er-bit-blanks/
    I make dirt out of woodworking tools.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Williamsburg,Va.
    Posts
    12,361
    Don't use an ADJUSTABLE bit!!! They ALWAYS get OUT OF ADJUSTMENT and ruin the hole. They might work with a brace and bit,but an electric drill or drill press is too much for them,it seems.

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