Wood for Painted Furniture

[Don Jarvie]

Everything I paint I use poplar. It's fairly inexpensive compared to hard maple or other woods. I buy rough lumber and kill it so I can get consistent thickness.

I paint everything with Benjamin Moore advance. It leaves a nice washable finish.

[Vince Rosypal]

No one ever said working with construction grade material was easy, or pine is easy for that matter.

It takes some getting used to and a bit of planning ahead.

First off, the stuff from the lumberyard does tend to be moist, very moist. Letting it dry out a week or two improves the situation a lot. Lumber standing around drying out does not eat anything.

Second, it pays to purchase the wider stuff, like 2 X 8's unless you like knots.

Bench looks great.... my bad but what is PT?

Everything I paint I use poplar. It's fairly inexpensive compared to hard maple or other woods. I buy rough lumber and kill it so I can get consistent thickness.

I paint everything with Benjamin Moore advance. It leaves a nice washable finish.

Sound like construction grade material might be an option
The softness is a consideration for me as I do have a child aka monkey

I did see a Youtube video of a counter built out of 2x10's that where specifically selected for the quarter sawn material on the outer edges of the board.... I believe his comment was "this center part will be for tomato stakes as that's all its good for"

[Joe Spear]

[QUOTE=Vince Rosypal;2683533]Some great suggestions!
Consolidated list from above:
Tulip Poplar - not sure if we have that here

I don't know where you are, but tulip poplar is also called yellow poplar, if you are aware of that in your area.

[Vince Rosypal]

is also called yellow poplar, if you are aware of that in your area.

I'm in Alberta Canada.... not familiar with yellow poplar but I am still learning

[Don Jarvie]

It's too hard to get good wood from construction grade material. It's going to have too many warps and twists. You'll spend more time trying to find good pieces plus you'll need to cut around the knots and defects. JMO.

[Dave Zellers]

Bench looks great.... my bad but what is PT?

Pressure Treated. Just like non treated construction lumber, there are some real gems in those piles. You just need to know how to spot them and how to treat them when you bring them home. I do it all the time.

[Vince Rosypal]

I have requested a price list from my local supplier so we will see what is more economical.
He did send one list but it was all dimensional spruce.....

[Vince Rosypal]

Thoughts on Aspen?

[Jim Becker]

Thoughts on Aspen?

Very soft and sometimes "fuzzy"...

[Vince Rosypal]

Very soft and sometimes "fuzzy"...

Thank Jim,
I see on wood-data base that Aspen and Poplar are very similar, thus the question on a possible alternative to the mostly recommended poplar
Workability is the same soft and fuzzy for both
http://www.wood-database.com/wood-ar...en-whats-what/

Hi Heard back from my local supplier on costs (not sure if I am aloud to post costs so its a cost above cheapest)
I ask for the price on a 1x6 for difference species per linear foot and all S4S
Aspen = 0
Fir = 0
Oak = +0.70
Maple = +2.20

Large jump for maple!

[Joe Spear]

In the east, yellow poplar is often used for painted furniture and drawer boxes. It works very well. I have even used in with a natural varnished finish if the color and grain have a particularly attractive look. It is softer than maple but perfectly serviceable.

[Chris Hachet]

I use Tulip Poplar when a project is going to be painted. It shows virtually no wood grain after a couple of coats of finish.

Exactly...

[Jim Becker]

Thank Jim,
I see on wood-data base that Aspen and Poplar are very similar, thus the question on a possible alternative to the mostly recommended poplar

You have to be careful about what is being referred to as "poplar". As another member noted, Tulip Poplar (Liriodendron tulipifera), which is a big east coast native hardwood, is popular as a material for painted projects. (Although it's also great dyed and can mimic other more expensive hardwoods...it's heavily used in the mass market furniture industry) It shouldn't be confused with Poplar (Populus) which includes aspens.

[Vince Rosypal]

You have to be careful about what is being referred to as "poplar". As another member noted, Tulip Poplar (Liriodendron tulipifera), which is a big east coast native hardwood, is popular as a material for painted projects. (Although it's also great dyed and can mimic other more expensive hardwoods...it's heavily used in the mass market furniture industry) It shouldn't be confused with Poplar (Populus) which includes aspens.

OH man.... the confusion of naming conventions.....
So Populus which includes aspens are not so good for painting.... to soft?
That's unfortunate as I might be force to use more expensive "prettier" wood

[Don Jarvie]

I've made a bedroom set out of poplar for both my daughters and they've yet to dent it. If you have the ability to mill it buy rough lumber. This way you can make sure it's dead flat. S4S is fine if it's from a quality dealer but I'd look it over.

If the S4S has any bows, twists etc it's hard to get them flat so they glue up nice especially for the larger panels since its milled to 3/4. Rough comes 1 1/8 so you have room to work.

Obviously if you don't have a planer and jointer rough is a no go unless you like hand planing. If it's S4S then go select the boards yourself.