Ripping hard maple - Woodworker II 40, 30 or 20 teeth?

[lowell holmes]

I have a rip blade that I use when doing a lot of ripping, like for sizing wood.

If I have just a couple of cuts, I use the combination blade.

The rip blade leaves a better surface.

They last a long time, mine are several years old.

[David Kumm]

Sounds like a good time to check out the saw. Check runout by ripping just far enough to clear the back teeth. Stop the saw, back up the board, and then measure the kerf at the entry end and the final cut point. Both should be the same and within a few thou of the tooth width. The kerf should not exhibit a ridge indicating the back blade teeth are cutting on side more as thethan the other. If that is good, either blade will be fine. If not, fix the fence and deal with the arbor flange. There should be no indication of a ridge on either side of the kerf or a wider kerf when both ends of the blade cut. Then whatever blade you choose will give good service. Dave

[Mel Fulks]

Just read thru this again ,still don't know if you are ripping rough or dressed wood. I've sawn more 8/4 than 4/4 rough maple and sometimes got some burning with 20 tooth ten inch blade. 18 tooth worked substantially better . Saw as fast as you can without bogging down motor. Expect a little burning ,especially with pieces that are twisted.

[Mike Schuch]

I have never owned a combination blade. My Powermatic table saw is pretty much always wearing a rip blade (Usually Freud) and my radial arm saw is pretty much always wearing a Freud ultimate cut off blade. For the most part the only exceptions are when one might have a dado blade attached. I have never considered a combination blade.