Best way to flatten a slab?

[Eric D Matson]

I have several walnut crotch slabs that are ready to go. I was wondering what the best method would be to get these ready to finish. They dried pretty much flat. Just need to touch them up. Any experienced slab guys?

Thanks.

[Darcy Warner]

My 30" jointer.

[Jamie Buxton]

The router bridge method.

[Martin Wasner]

Widebelt?

00000000

[Chris Padilla]

Can you post any pics of what you've got there, Eric?

If you can find a local pro, he might have a widebelt sander that could make quick work of flattening those pieces for you. It would be worth it to part with a few dead presidents.

The router bridge Jamie suggested is another way. You basically set up two flat items (wood, metal) (the bridge) on either side of your slab, perfectly parallet and level, mount the router to a flat board and you then sweep it along the bridge and flatten the slab.

Another one is a jointer plane or any long plane you have.

Or talk to Darcy with his mammoth jointer!!

[Steve Demuth]

Power tool guy or hand tool guy? Unless they are truly massive Walnut crotches, and assuming as you say they're not wildly twisted, a sharp high angle plane or Japanese equivalent and winding sticks would be a great way to flatten them.

[Eric D Matson]

I am mainly a power tool guy but am seeing what hand tools can do. I have been wanting to get some planes. I am always looking for an excuse to buy tools. Here are a couple pics. I have about a 4' stack of these boards. These are just the ones that were on top. IMG_2420.jpgIMG_2418.jpg

[Steve Demuth]

Do you have a planer? Those are small enough to be stabilized on a planer sled and flattened that way, even with a benchtop model. Very simple and fast. Otherwise also quite manageable with hand planes, although a fair bit of work because of the significant thickness variation (at least in the one on the first picture).

[Brian Holcombe]

Quick process for me on slabs is to joint by hand, using a straight edge and pair of winding sticks to determine flatness. After which, thickness plane then use a smoother to finish the work after which I detail the edges.

I do this for any sized slab, I've seen others do a similar process subbing out the roughing planes for an electric hand planer.

I dont employ sanders, typically, as I use hand tools extensively in my work and deposited sanding grit is very hard on tool edges. On heavily figured slabs I will finish sand after finish planing to provide a consistent texture, since typically end grain will show as a dull finish compared to long grain when hand planing.

[lowell holmes]

I would hand plane the twist out and then run it through my planer. That would minimize wood loss.

[Eric D Matson]

I can run the small ones through my planer. The bigger ones are about 24" across and I don't have the capacity. Those were the main ones I was inquiring about.

[Brian Holcombe]

Unless you are determined to hit a certain dimension, I would joint one side, transfer a line, then plane the top (also by hand). Aim to take as little as possible in thickness rather than shooting for a specific number thickness.

[Frederick Skelly]

Eric,
I just did this recently with hand planes and I'm glad I did. But I've been slowly learning to use them for the last 2-3 years with a lot of advice from Neaderthal Forum friends like Mr. Holcombe. If you are not yet fluent in hand planes, you might not want to use a valuable slab to learn upon. OTOH, if you can afford to goof up a little on that slab as you learn, and you have time to learn (i.e., not under a deadline), hand planes offer a phenomenal range of flexibility. You will never regret taking the time to learn them.

Fred
[You will need to learn to sharpen, so factor that time into your learning curve too.]

[Eric D Matson]

I do have the necessary water stones and have a good start on sharpening already. I have one plane. I think I'm going to go ahead and pick a few more up. I should have purchased a lee valley gift card last year at Black Friday.

[Brian Holcombe]

Bare minimum you need a jack and a smoother, if you can also add a jointer then that will make face jointing a little easier.

You need a long straight edge, that is accurate and a set of winding sticks.

Read my blog, I have detailed accounts on face jointing.