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Thread: Buffing question

  1. #1

    Buffing question

    It has been a while since I did any buffing with my Bealle buffs, and I usually don't need to buff as my finish is usually high grade. I just finished up a hollow form, and I think my wipe on poly has seen better days. I first opened this particular can over 18 months ago, and it has endured the freeze thaw cycles of winter in my unheated shop. The can has just under half of the product left. I don't think the finish flows as well as it does with a new can....perhaps it has thickened a bit, and leaves more fine marks instead of flowing together?

    While the finish turned out nice, I feel it can benefit from buffing. I put the last coat on earlier this afternoon, and will let cure a bit overnight, but want to buff tomorrow afternoon. Now my question....should I buff with tripoli and at what rpm? Should I start with the white diamond? This has about 4 coats of WOP on it, and I think it would shine better and perhaps take out the tiny finish marks left by the t-shirt material I used to apply the WOP. You can barely see them in the bright light, but I want to not see them at all.

    Any suggestions to help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance!
    Last edited by Roger Chandler; 04-29-2017 at 10:44 PM.
    Remember, in a moments time, everything can change!

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  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Roger, I pretty much buff all of my turnings, the ones that aren't straight utilitarian anyway. I start with the tripoli then move to white diamond. I don't use the carnuba at all. I run the lathe at around 1800 rpm's also.

    Two other thoughts. One, throw out that can of WOP. It's cheap enough to not deal with decaying product. Two, I personally would not buff that piece today. I'm not saying that it won't turn out just fine but I've not buffed a piece with WOP so soon after final application. I will assume that it NEEDS to be done today? Hopefully others with more experience on that point will chime in.
    Tony

    "Soldier On"

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Roger I buff just about everything. It helps to give the piece a nice feel and people like to feel the bowls, I also like the look. My main finish is WOP, never had any problems with it getting old or freezing, I don't think it will freeze at the temperature where you live. Four coats is the minimum I would use, some wood requires more, WOP is very thin out of the can. If you think yours has gotten to thin try adding some mineral spirits. Be sure to shake the can well before use. I sand my bowls with a high grit sandpaper or use steel wool before I buff just to get every thing smooth. I buff at around a 1000 rpm, slow down to about 700rpm for waxing. I don't use the white diamond on dark wood like walnut. Good luck, this is just what works for me, most situations may differ.
    Fred

  4. #4
    +1 on fine sanding before buffing. Buff gently until you get a feel for how much pressure warms up the piece, and then try to not warm it much at all. There is a fine line between warm and a ruined finish.
    _______________________________________
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  5. #5
    Other than a utilitarian piece finished with walnut oil, I buff every piece. I concur on wet sanding the surface prior to final buffing - I use mineral spirits or BLO and 600 - 1200. If I use BLO, I remove the oil residue with MS prior to buffing.

    On the WOP, it does get old from the loss of the driers and solvent carriers due to evaporation. The result is a finish that does not want to flow well or cure correctly. I often toss a can that is 1/4 - 1/3 full.

    The longer you can wait to buff the better, but I wouldn't buff quicker than 48 hours. Even then, if it is humid, you may ruin a piece.

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  6. #6
    Join Date
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    894
    I buy finish in container sizes that match how much I use, sort of.

    There are a few ways to limit the exposure of WOP to air in a closed container:

    • Use something like marbles to displace air as the WOP is getting used up. Works well but reusing the marbles can be a mess.
    • Use something like Bloxygen - an inert, heavier than air gas that forms a protective layer between the air in the can and your finish. Can be a bit $$.
    • My current favorite is Stop Loss Bags. They can take some getting used to but they work! They are plastic bags with a screw on top. Fill a bag and as you use the finish you expel the air and cap the bag. They also have a flat bottom so the stand up. Since they are clear I think you should store them in a fairly dark container like a box. I'm losing very little finish now.
    RD

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by John Keeton View Post
    Other than a utilitarian piece finished with walnut oil, I buff every piece. I concur on wet sanding the surface prior to final buffing - I use mineral spirits or BLO and 600 - 1200. If I use BLO, I remove the oil residue with MS prior to buffing.

    On the WOP, it does get old from the loss of the driers and solvent carriers due to evaporation. The result is a finish that does not want to flow well or cure correctly. I often toss a can that is 1/4 - 1/3 full.

    The longer you can wait to buff the better, but I wouldn't buff quicker than 48 hours. Even then, if it is humid, you may ruin a piece.
    I did wet sanding up to 600 grit....slick smooth finish, zero tearout anywhere. I think my biggest issue is the age of the WOP. If the buffing does not produce the results I want, I will resand at 600 grit, then apply from a new can. I have one that has not been opened yet.

    Thanks everyone for the advice.....I was thinking 24 hours wait might be about right, but now I think I will wait a couple more days before buffing.
    Remember, in a moments time, everything can change!

    Vision - not just seeing what is, but seeing what can be!




  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    I store nearly all my finishes (except CA) upside down. It might seems somewhat counterintuitive, but, if you think about it, air in the container is what hastens the degradation of the finish in its container. If the finish is up against the opening (while stored upside down) no air can get into the container! I have paints and stains and WOP and polycrylic and such that I've had for sometime, and they are all still quite viable. What I usually do is use the finish, close the container tightly, then the next day turn it upside down. Works like a charm.
    Don't let it bring you down,
    It's only castles burning,
    Just find someone who's turning,
    And you will come around

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  9. #9
    Join Date
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    UP of Michigan
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    +1 to "stop loss bags" I use them for waterlox, in fact I have stored some for over 12 months without gelling.

  10. #10
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    Roger, try wet sanding with slightly soapy water and fine grits of 3M or Norton sanding sponges. Much easier and neater than oils. This works great on resinous pines, rosewoods and hard tropicals on the bare wood. Then go to bar or auto compounds for a glossy finish ( or semi gloss). If it gets thick or slurry spray on some more water/soap.

  11. #11
    I would wait longer for buffing. Even lacquer requires more than overnight to be hard enough to buff well. I would leave any poly or varnish for a week or more. The harder the finish has cured, the better the results from buffing will be.

  12. Thanks everyone again for your input on my buffing question. If you have seen my other thread, you will see that I did buff it out on Sunday evening, and with the WOP drying in my shop environment, which was fairly warm, the poly firmed up really well, and buffing did smooth out the finish a bit. I am ok with how this turned out overall.
    Remember, in a moments time, everything can change!

    Vision - not just seeing what is, but seeing what can be!




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