[OP]
Contributor
I would like to build a Roubo split-top workbench but wood selection here in NW Arizona is limited. It doesn't have to be made out of traditional maple but even dried softwoods are hard to find. About the only thing available close by is wet construction grade lumber. Is it reasonable to use that? If so, what is the process for drying it out? Any other suggestions on wood to use for construction?
Moderator
The process of drying construction lumber is the same as planks from a sawmill. Make a stack with stickers between the boards. Allow plenty of air flow. Weight the top. Protect from the sun and rain. Wait.Originally Posted by Steve Mathews
I've seen work benches from all kinds of wood.
Or have it shipped in. This company has a kit of just the wood (maple or ash).
http://www.bellforestproducts.com/ex...ubo-workbench/
JKJ
[OP]
Contributor
Thanks for heads up! I sent in a request for a shipping quote.
[OP]
Contributor
The link that John posted led me to the series of instructional videos by The Wood Whisperer Guild on making the Roubo split-top workbench. Has anyone purchased this series? If so, what did you think of it?
Member
The local Home Depot or Lowes doesn't have any kiln-dried lumber? Around here the 2x4s are generally terrible, however they have some nice douglas fir 4x4s that would work just fine for a workbench. If not at a big box store, find a local supply company. A place where framers are buying their lumber from will certinly have some decent wood.
[OP]
Contributor
Nope, our local Home Depot and hardware stores only have wet construction lumber. I haven't checked the nearest Lowes the next town away yet or any of the lumber sources in Las Vegas, which is the largest metropolitan area within 100 miles.
Contributor
Lots and lots of Ruobo style (and others) workbenches have been built with construction grade Fir and Southern Yellow Pine. As John K said, sticker it, let it continue to dry out for a while (weeks, months?) until the stack is in the way and you need to use it up to get it out of the way. I bought enough SYP 2x12's to build the base and then bought a second batch for gluing up the tops when the first stack was depleted. I also let the second stack dry while I worked on the base joinery. The wider width framing lumber usually contains better wood than the narrower widths and you can plan to rip the 2x10's and 2x12's to use both halves in an efficient manner if you take the time to draw up a cutting pattern. Pick the straightest, bets looking ones with the knots buried more to the middle of the board rather than on the outer edges.
David
Member
You might consider making a one time shipment from a sawmill in the Midwest. Have them ship you lumber for a bench and several projects.
Lumber gets really inexpensive from a mill when you buy 500 board foot. Secondary grade kiln dried hardwood sometimes sells from Ohio mills for under $2 a board foot...Yoder lumber might be a good place to start. IIRC they ship nationwide.
Just checked, they have a #2 grade Alder and Poplar in 8/4 for around $1.85 a board foot.
At 301-500 Board feet, the cost of the Alder goes down to $1.56 a board foot...
Last edited by Chris Hachet; 05-01-2017 at 1:19 PM. Reason: additional information.
[OP]
Contributor
Thanks Chris! My heads swimming with the possibilities.
Member
Post pics of your bench in the neanderthal section when it is in progress/complete. We go nuts over work benches. Good luck!
[OP]
Contributor
Thanks for pointing me in the direction of the Neaderthal section. There's a workbench build being discussed now.
[OP]
Contributor
I double checked Home Depot's lumber stock this morning. Even the 4x6 Douglas Fir is wet. Someone at the store mentioned that Lowes has a better selection and limited dried lumber. I'll check there later in the week.
After doing a quick calculation, it looks like it would cost about $210 for 220 bd. ft. from Home Depot's stock. The price from Bell Forest Product is $850 for the same quantity of wood but nicer hardwoods. But shipping will cost me almost $400 more. I haven't checked the source(s) member Chris Hachet mentioned yet. Since this is my first large woodworking project I'm leaning in the direction of using cheaper wood to start. I won't feel as bad making mistakes.
Contributor
Woodworkers Source has an excellent selection and three stores in AZ. Good sale prices. If you're not close enough to pick it up they often offer free shipping.
[OP]
Contributor
While at Home Depot I noticed that Douglas Fir 2x6x8' was 1/3 the cost of 4x6x8'. I'm laminating these pieces for the top so it's obvious that it would be cheaper to use 2x6x8'. If starting with wet wood wouldn't the 2x6s dry faster? Seem like it's a double benefit to use 2x material.
Contributor
I am (slowly) building a split top roubo using #2 grade wet construction Douglas fir for the top. I started by hand picking 4x6 8ft beams with as few defects as possible. I haunted the local Home Depot for months before an acceptable selection materialized. I aimed to yield enough lumber for a 6ft long top.
I weighed each piece and wrote the weight and date on each beam. I then sticker-ed and stacked the wood. Every week, I weighed each piece and wrote the new weight and date on the wood. When the wood stopped loosing weight, I assumed it had reached equilibrium and was stable enough to work. I did this process over 2 or 3 months in a 80-100 degree garage during the summer. I have since prepared and glued up the wood into two 12 inch wide tops. They have been very stable for the past year. Still working on the base.
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