Endgrain cutting, too little to saw, too much to plane?

[Leo Graywacz]

No belt sander? Maybe a sanding block with some 40 grit. The thin kerf saw has potential.

[andy bessette]

The Japanese razor saw I mentioned is the bottom-most in this photo. It is my daily use saw and would easily do the job described. The blades are replaceable.

[Kees Heiden]

It seems my shop is sorely lacking many things! No miter box, no Japanese saws, no stationary belt sander...

[Nicholas Lawrence]

I don't think you need to chuck your western saws or buy a belt sander. But a well tuned miter box is a very useful thing.

[Kees Heiden]

I had one, a nice Ulmia, but I never used it and it's a rather large thing in a small shop. So I sold it.

[Nicholas Lawrence]

Mine is a no name (that I have ever found anyway) Acme/Langdon style. When I am done with it the saw just goes in the till, and the box itself goes on the shelf. To use it I just pull it out and clamp to the bench, insert the saw, and make a quick test cut to be sure everything is still aligned properly. Nothing ever seems to get knocked out, but you know the one time you don't check will be the time it is off!

The newer ones I have seen seem to have the saw more permanently mounted, and I could see how that would be awkward to store. Mine has a hole in the saw, for a pin to prevent you from pulling the saw too far back out of the guides, but I never use the pin, and that makes it a lot easier to store.

[Adam Cruea]

I'd either use chisels or a saw to remove a lot of that, then use my #51 and shooting board to get rid of the excess.

[Doug Hepler]

In the hand tool world, this is what shooting boards were invented to do. Before I knew that, I would have used a table saw as follows:

You put the work piece against the plate. Clamp it to the miter guide if need be. Slide it by the running saw blade. That will remove an amount of wood equal to 1/2 of the saw set. Repeat

Doug

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[Jim Koepke]

In the hand tool world, this is what shooting boards were invented to do. Before I knew that, I would have used a table saw as follows:

You put the work piece against the plate. Clamp it to the miter guide if need be. Slide it by the running saw blade. That will remove an amount of wood equal to 1/2 of the saw set. Repeat

Doug

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Aha! The electric shooting saw.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

In Texas, if we need a pull saw, we just go to Home Depot or Lowes and get one. I'm curious, how do you buy your tools in the Netherlands?

[Kees Heiden]

Well, that wasn't too bad. I used my crosscutting backsaw, A Leapfrog Spear and Jackson. Nothing special, just expertly sharpened! (by yours truely, of course )

A little clean up with a blockplane, and they are now all the required length.

IMG_3832.JPG

So, I don't need no stinking tablesaw, Japanese saw, LN #51 plane, stationary beltsander, miterbox

[Doug Hepler]

But you still need a shooting board!

Doug

[Kees Heiden]

Don't worry, I've got one. But these styles are really too thick for the shooting board. I regard that as a tool for much thinner stock.

[Jim Koepke]

Don't worry, I've got one. But these styles are really too thick for the shooting board. I regard that as a tool for much thinner stock.

With stock thicker than the plane it can be done by cutting a pyramid on a shooting board and then worked by rotating the piece. Here was my way to do it with a narrow leg:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...44777-Oh-Shoot!

Instead of angling the work horizontally it could be tilted on the vertical axis.

Sawing and a block plane was likely easier.

jtk

[Jim Belair]

Clamp a scrap to the front and back longer then the piece. Saw thru the scraps and the work......

Jim

I like this idea as it gives good support for the saw.