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Thread: Jointer Plane

  1. #1
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    Jointer Plane

    I am still in the early stages of building a wooden jointer plane. The design for the closed rear tote is based on the more commonly found 3 finger entry of the 1700s. The bed angle will be 52*.(an allowance of +2* for the tapered iron). The DAR dimensions of the main stock are 2 3/8" x 2 3/8" x 28". The original double irons width of 2 1/8"was reduced down to 1 13/16".





    In rift sawn lumber
    the annual rings are typically
    between 30-60 degrees, with
    45 degrees being optimum.
    Manufactured by milling perpendicular
    to the log’s growth
    rings producing a linear grain
    pattern with no flecking. This
    method produces the most
    waste, increasing the cost of
    this lumber. Rift sawn lumber is
    the most dimensionally stable
    cut of lumber available and has
    a unique linear appearance.

    http://www.edensaw.com/MainSite/Stor...cutdiagram.pdf

    http://www.hardwooddistributors.org/...n-sawn-lumber/

  2. #2
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    That will give you 1/4" of wood either side with some wiggle room for the blade. With only 2 & 3/8" deep for that length of plane I wonder if it will be enough to stop the reference face flexing a little.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by William Fretwell View Post
    That will give you 1/4" of wood either side with some wiggle room for the blade. With only 2 & 3/8" deep for that length of plane I wonder if it will be enough to stop the reference face flexing a little.
    William; keep in mind the bed angle will increase that length of measurement.
    Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 05-03-2017 at 8:42 AM.

  4. #4
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    That's true but the width of the groove also increases the longer it is. If you put a small strip of wood under each end and apply weight to the centre you may get an idea how much it takes to flex the wood 1/16" then divide by 5 to guestimate the weight with a groove in.
    It would be interesting to measure it for the rest of us before and after.
    In use if it does flex it becomes more of a fore plane.
    Next time in my shop I will do the same with my iron jointer to see how much flex I have, although the damn thing is concave to start with!
    Last edited by William Fretwell; 05-03-2017 at 8:59 AM.

  5. #5
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    I like your handle design! Looks like one of mine. Except for the unique little peak on the inside curve.

  6. #6
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    Thanks George. You may wish to post a pic of your rear tote for a visual comparison.

  7. #7
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    I too like the handle design, especially the little peak on the inside curve.

    How did you reduce the iron width from 2-1/8" to 1-13/16"?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Belair View Post
    I too like the handle design, especially the little peak on the inside curve.

    How did you reduce the iron width from 2-1/8" to 1-13/16"?
    Jim; a 12" Bench Top Disk Sander was used to resize the width of blade and cap iron. Constant immersion in water was required to negate overheating the steel.
    Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 05-03-2017 at 10:42 AM.

  9. #9
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    There is already a picture posted some years ago here of a jointer I made. The handle is very similar to yours,save for the inside curve's peak. Possibly search "a jointer I made". I'll check it out and reply if it does the trick.

  10. #10
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    My handle was shown in "A large jointer I made". My handle does have some different curvey features. Been a while since I looked at it.

  11. #11
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    Thanks George.

  12. #12
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    IMAG0147.jpg
    Ohio Tool Co. #81...with original handle.....

  13. #13
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    Stewie,

    While it's hard to deny that the visual appeal of your handle is striking, it has me wondering how comfortable it will be to use? When I made the first IT handle there was a lot of discussion with Patrick about what it would look like and what period it should come from. We settled on a version from around 1830 with the main consideration being comfort in use.

    I'm curious about the thought process you went through to choose a much earlier handle? In my linear way of thinking, if that was the best design for a jointer plane handle, then you would see a handle on that like the planes that were made in their heyday, around 1870. Instead, you see a much more comfortable and larger grip like the photo Steve posted.

    If the goal was to see how an early handle feels in use, then that's the answer. If there is another compelling reason, I for one would be interested in your thought process. I presume if you use hide glue to put the handle in place, if you don't like it you can remove it and try another design.

    All the best,

    Pete

  14. #14
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    Hi Stewie, It would be nice to see a picture of your hand holding the new tote as its intended to be used.

  15. #15
    That looks beautiful, Stewie.

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