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Thread: Rust hunt finds / questions?

  1. #1
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    Rust hunt finds / questions?

    The addiction is in full force, some items popped up on Craiglist recently and I just couldn't resist. I originally just went for the saw below but ended up with a few more goodies
    First up a Stanley miter Box & Disston made Stanley miter saw, I'm not sure if these were originally a matched set or if they ever came that way, but I just couldn't leave the miter box after seeing them together. Hopefully you guys have some idea's on the model number? I would assume it's a 358 because thats the only old miter box info I could did up. It doesn't have a model number or stamp anywhere just the patent dates. miter saw patent date (2).jpg

    The angle adjuster still works fine besides being a little rusty and the box seems to function. I haven't checked any adjustments yet.Any info on model number or just info in general is greatly appreciated.
    back of miter box.jpg
    I think from the old catalog pics I could find that the stops / posts are on backwards.
    saw & box.jpg

    Couple pics of the saw. 26" in length. Has a Stanley Etch and Disston medallion.
    miter saw etch.jpgmiter saw medalliom (2).jpg

    Also picked up the jack plane below. The body is stamped A.Howland & Co NY. I tried digging up some info On the maker, Best I could find was it was possibly made in the 1860's and maybe by Prison workers? Also would appreciate some history If anyone has any knowledge. I just de-rusted the iron / cap iron tonight (pics pre de-rust) seemed to clean up nicely, some pitting on the back of the iron, but I plan to camber and actually use as a heavy jack so hopefully all works out for the best. This is my first dealing with a all wood plane. The iron is extremely thick on the cutting end and tapers thinner towards the maker stamp, also marked A.Howland & Co NY and stamped below with a beehive symbol and the words "Beehive trade mark"
    plane iron stamp.jpg
    plane front a rowland co.jpg
    miter saw & plane.jpg


    For $55 for these plus a set of dividers and some block planes parts I'm pretty Happy.

    If any one has any advise on refurbishing the plane it's much appreciated. Like I said above, the plane will be my first all wood, so I'm not sure what all is critical besides the iron being sharp and bottom flat.

    Regards,
    Michael

  2. #2
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    If any one has any advise on refurbishing the plane it's much appreciated.
    Among the Neanderthal Stickies is this:

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...al-wisdom-FAQs

    Scroll down to section 9 and there is a post there by Bob Smalser, Rehabbing Woodies, it should be of help.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  3. #3
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    I'm not knowledgeable on the different Stanley miter boxes; can't help with model number, although that's not, really, very important unless you're looking for parts or displaying it in a museum/show.

    I believe you're right on the stops; they would commonly have been stored backwards, so they wouldn't get in the way of cutting wider stock; their present arrangement is not a sign of an incompetent previous owner. They're used when cutting crown or other molding that needs to be placed on the table at an angle; the stop keeps it from sliding out of position.

    One of the nice features of Stanley boxes is that the saw carriage can be easily locked at the top of its travel while you're positioning the stock to be cut, and just as easily released from its locked state.

    You scored! (insert happy smiley congratulatory face)

  4. #4
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    I happen to have the Stanley #358 Mitre Box. The front guide "tower" can be placed in either hole in the swing arm, depending on the length of the saw. Mine has a 5 x 28 saw. Disston seemed to make most of the saws for Stanley Mitre Boxes.
    full picture.jpg
    depth stop.JPG
    Shot of the brass depth stop in use.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Koepke View Post
    Among the Neanderthal Stickies is this:

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...al-wisdom-FAQs

    Scroll down to section 9 and there is a post there by Bob Smalser, Rehabbing Woodies, it should be of help.

    jtk
    I've actually read that in the past, when I first started browsing the forum, forgot all about it.

    Thank you

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Houghton View Post
    I'm not knowledgeable on the different Stanley miter boxes; can't help with model number, although that's not, really, very important unless you're looking for parts or displaying it in a museum/show.

    I believe you're right on the stops; they would commonly have been stored backwards, so they wouldn't get in the way of cutting wider stock; their present arrangement is not a sign of an incompetent previous owner. They're used when cutting crown or other molding that needs to be placed on the table at an angle; the stop keeps it from sliding out of position.

    One of the nice features of Stanley boxes is that the saw carriage can be easily locked at the top of its travel while you're positioning the stock to be cut, and just as easily released from its locked state.

    You scored! (insert happy smiley congratulatory face)
    Your right, Model number makes no difference in use. Would just like to know for my own personal satisfaction / the history behind it. I Like to look up these old tools in the old catalogs.

    My carriage locks seem to be different then most other pictures I can find on the internet (like stevens) that have the latch/hooks deal that comes down. Mine has two flat bars with a groove and a spring in the middle that must lock onto a notch on the posts. The lock closest to the user and on the user side has a latch that swivels down and has a notch cut that coincides with a notch cut into the saw back. I think it's supposed to unlock when the notch in the saw back hits it. Right now everthing is a little gummed up so I can get it to lock with a little fanangling, but not unlock. Might go out tonight and de-grease / oil the little parts like those and see if I can get it all moving a easier. For the time being I don't plan to clean it up anymore than is needed, saw either needs a sharpening or more set, cuz it cuts way to slow for my liking.

  7. #7
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    Michael; the woodie you want to refurbish has a wooden wedge and traditional wedge abutments. Being provided a link on refurbishing a transitional woodie is of limited value to the task your trying to undertake. The following link should help.

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...den-Jack-Plane

  8. #8
    very odd -- in your 2nd photo showing the back of the box, it appears someone has stowed the stock guide plate which is the basis of the early length stop system.
    Later boxes have rods, couplers and a "tree" which stow under the box in holes in the casting, but earlier boxes have a disc embedded in the deck of the box.

    These images are from one of my #240 boxes.

    DSCN6326.jpgDSCN6332.jpg

    To use it, one removes one of the stock guides (and stock guide thumbscrews) and attaches it to the disc use the threaded center hole.
    This image (found on the Old Wolf Workshop blog) should make things clear.

    Capture2 highlighted.JPG

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stewie Simpson View Post
    Michael; the woodie you want to refurbish has a wooden wedge and traditional wedge abutments. Being provided a link on refurbishing a transitional woodie is of limited value to the task your trying to undertake. The following link should help.

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...den-Jack-Plane
    Great job on that plane stewie. Very thorough explaination & beautifully executed. Thank you!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Bailey View Post
    very odd -- in your 2nd photo showing the back of the box, it appears someone has stowed the stock guide plate which is the basis of the early length stop system.
    Later boxes have rods, couplers and a "tree" which stow under the box in holes in the casting, but earlier boxes have a disc embedded in the deck of the box.

    These images are from one of my #240 boxes.

    DSCN6326.jpgDSCN6332.jpg

    To use it, one removes one of the stock guides (and stock guide thumbscrews) and attaches it to the disc use the threaded center hole.
    This image (found on the Old Wolf Workshop blog) should make things clear.

    Capture2 highlighted.JPG
    Joe,
    I'm glad you pointed out the guide plate on the back. I had no idea what the hell it was for. After your comment I went out to tinker with it some more and realized I had another one in the wood base.

    I also found found another surprise when I flipped it over to examine the bottom. A SPIDER!!! she decided it was going to be a good home because there were about 3 egg sacs, laid on it.

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