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Thread: Jointer Plane

  1. #61
    Quote Originally Posted by Graham Haydon View Post
    I wonder just how many planes a house carpenter would need once timber was purchased accurately sawn and things like skirting, architraves and door linings would be machine planed? I can't imagine they'd need long planes very often, perhaps a jack and smoother would be ample for most on site work of the late 19th century. Something to stick a rebate or a groove now and again could be hand. I know that in the early 20th century you could go to merchants and buy ready moulded sash section to be joined as required.

    Long planes excel at edge jointing. Building houses usually entails making lots of doors and windows. Even if they bought machine-cut linings and such, the wood would move a lot before the house was finished.

    It seems a simple connection, to me.

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Australia
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    Kees; jarrah is a hard and dense timber that has a moderate blunting effect on hand tools. Its likely 2 fold in difficulty to hand mortise out compared to quality European Beech.

    Australian Jarrah;1860 lbf
    European Beech; 1450 lbf
    American Beech; 1300 lbf
    Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 05-08-2017 at 4:20 AM.

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Australia
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    Sharpening Planemakers Edge Floats;





    Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 05-09-2017 at 8:08 AM.

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    In my basement
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    Oooo, look. . .Stewie and Derek with their Jarrah planes.

    That is one huge, good lookin' monstrosity. Amazing that stuff is hard enough you need to sharpen your floats.
    The Barefoot Woodworker.

    Fueled by leather, chrome, and thunder.

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    12,402
    Adam,that is an old heavy duty vise for a metal milling machine. Machinists would just say milling machine. But,I am not sure if everyone would know that the machine I refer to is for metal milling.

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Australia
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    The fitting of the wooden wedge within its abutments has been completed.




  7. #67
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    South West Ontario
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    I did think the wedge would go further down. What's next? The opening for the shaving? You have kept a good thickness of wood on the sides. Will follow your first shavings with interest!

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Australia
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    William; the tine ends of the wooden wedge extend all the way down to the commencement of the cap irons front curvature. Mortising out to receive the rear tote is next on tomorrow's to do list.

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Australia
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    The front of the mouth opening and wear angle have both been squared up. The sole of plane has been dressed back to flat with the double iron in tension. (Little change noted in flatness). The sides and top have been cleaned up to remove all the lay-out markings. The mortise housing for the rear tote has been completed and the hide glued in position. The glue will be left to harden overnight. Both ends of the planes stock still need to be cleaned up with a block plane, then its onto forming the profile bevels.



    Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 05-14-2017 at 12:52 AM.

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
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    United Kingdom - Devon
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    503
    Looking great!

  11. #71
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Not going to add the bevels around the top edges, and front and rear? They can add a great deal of charm to a plane if done right. I prefer the bold ones used in the 18th. C. myself. The worst ones were the final, barely rounded edges used in the 19th. C..

    The same jack plane I showed before has 18th C. BOLD bevels. These bevels terminate in nice,clean, gouge cuts. If you are experienced,they can be done in one cut! Snick,snick,nick. The plane is sitting on a pair of Appalachian red spruce guitar top blanks. This is what the old time,sought after Martin and Gibson guitars used. Now nearly unavailable unless you own land where there are some spruce trees. Deer eat the young buds, causing no more trees to grow.
    The existing trees are protected.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by george wilson; 05-14-2017 at 9:29 AM.

  12. #72
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by george wilson View Post
    Not going to add the bevels around the top edges, and front and rear? They can add a great deal of charm to a plane if done right. I prefer the bold ones used in the 18th. C. myself. The worst ones were the final, barely rounded edges used in the 19th. C..

    The same jack plane I showed before has 18th C. BOLD bevels. These bevels terminate in nice,clean, gouge cuts. If you are experienced,they can be done in one cut! Snick,snick,nick. The plane is sitting on a pair of Appalachian red spruce guitar top blanks. This is what the old time,sought after Martin and Gibson guitars used. Now nearly unavailable unless you own land where there are some spruce trees. Deer eat the young buds, causing no more trees to grow.
    The existing trees are protected.
    Both ends of the planes stock still need to be cleaned up with a block plane, then its onto forming the profile bevels.

    George; after the end grains on the stock have been cleaned up, its onto forming the profile bevels. This plane design is based on the French style of plane making. Narrower escarpment side walls, and less width in the size of the bevels that run across the top and ends the stock (rounded profile), and no eyes carved into the cheek side walls.
    Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 05-15-2017 at 2:18 AM.

  13. #73
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Australia
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    All that's left to do is give the cutting iron a final sharpen. Then its onto making some curly shavings.

    Stewie;






    Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 05-15-2017 at 1:32 AM.

  14. #74
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    twomiles from the "peak of Ohio
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    12,166
    Looks GREAT!

  15. #75
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Australia
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    Appreciate the feedback Steve.

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