Need a spring,, not sure what to look for.

[Larry Edgerton]

I am building a setup stand for corrugated cutterheads. I have a shaft and various length brass bushings to make up for the different length heads, but I still need a spring to keep it all pushed one way. The spring needs to be 1 1/4" or slightly bigger ID so it can slip on the shaft, preferably about an inch long, and not very strong. It just needs to keep the bushings snug so the cutterhead does not move while I set knives.

I did some searching but there are so many spring types I'm in need of some guidance to narrow down my search, so if there are any spring experts here please chime in.

Thanks, Larry

[Andy Giddings]

Have you tried McMaster Carr? They have a selection of compression springs that can be filter on ID, max load etc

[peter gagliardi]

I will be following, but I am not much help. This has been my method for about 20 years. It is simple, and fairly efficient, and accomodates any size bore cutterhead.
I lay the head in the scrap piece of crown, use a spare gib across the end of the pocket to achieve flush, and tighten down.
I have wondered for years what a "real millwork" shop would have. Then, I just use it again, thinking all along there has to be something better.
IMG_1264.jpgIMG_1265.jpg

It doesn't work well for all heads, but for the corrugated 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" bore shaper and molder heads it is ok.
Innovator panel raisers, and a few others, require other means.

[Jerry Bruette]

Larry,
McMaster has what's called Bellville springs and Wavy Disc springs. Maybe you could adapt these to your setup stand with a sleeve to take up the extra distance. The wavy disc springs are used in electric motors to take up the end play.

[Larry Edgerton]

I will be following, but I am not much help. This has been my method for about 20 years. It is simple, and fairly efficient, and accomodates any size bore cutterhead.
I lay the head in the scrap piece of crown, use a spare gib across the end of the pocket to achieve flush, and tighten down.
I have wondered for years what a "real millwork" shop would have. Then, I just use it again, thinking all along there has to be something better.
IMG_1264.jpgIMG_1265.jpg

It doesn't work well for all heads, but for the corrugated 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" bore shaper and molder heads it is ok.
Innovator panel raisers, and a few others, require other means.

I was doing mine on the shaper with a magnetic base and a pointer. It worked well, and with perfect grinds I could just set them on the small ring, but I just bought a bunch of knives that are ground well except that the ends start at different points. My eyes are getting bad and it was hard to see with the old method so I am making one that uses the profile traced on to a piece of paper on a shelf for the first one and copied for each successive knife. Thought about buying the Aigner but at $207 for what looks pretty wimpy, and as usual overpriced.

I found some rod that is perfect at a hydraulic shop, scrap from making a cylinder. Got two pieces for $10. Its no good to them as it is a short and will end up being scrapped. So I am making a stand out of some scrap Makore as it is nice and stable and of course pretty hanging on the wall. Thats important you know. For you with two shaft sizes you could go with 1 1/4" and bush the head to set it up for 1 1/2".

Because I have not found a spring I like I have been thinking of other methods, had thought about the wavy springs as it will not really need any real force. The problem is I would have to have more variations of sleeves as the spring would not allow much variation. I'm also thinking of making one end slide and forgetting the spring all together.

When I get it done and it works Peter I will post a picture or email it to you, when I have it working perfect of course.

Larry

[Mel Fulks]

Our knives were used on moulder and shaper. Ground accurately square on "grind end" (left or right) . We just held held a flat stop to grind end and slid knives to that stop. When used on shaper we might have to move them from flush setting with a wood block. In those cases head was vertical on table surface. Apology ,missed the poorly ground part.I would be skeptical about the balance. Would grind one end square and balance. Good "fill" job for a helper

[Larry Edgerton]

Mel, they are all beautifully ground, and all the same length, just a fuzz off at the ends. Not much, but enough that it has to be compensated for. I am sure that is why I bought them for less that the cost of the stock, but they are very nice profiles for little money. I have run a few and no issues, but my shaper is over 3000 pounds and not much upsets it, so possibly. I don't have a local grinder, have to send everything out. Have thought about buying one but $$$.

[Mel Fulks]

I'm wondering if a piece of old tape measure inner flat spring would do it. Either coiled or just left straight and cut to different lengths. When the knives are square and well ground and balanced ...and not the same length ,they are the cheap "same hardness as M-2", and that is certainly the biggest share of the market. With real M-2 or any of the better steels I've found I could cut 2 pieces off same bar ,grind good and square ,exactly the same length ....and they would weigh exactly the same! With the cheap stuff one piece might have to be an 1/8th longer to be the same weight from same bar.

[Warren Lake]

wow Mel that is wild,

I probably put stuff on snug on the bench slip the head on then spin a section of cutter to rub on some piece of wood, then the other side you can hear and feel when they are the same. last guy grinding put a reference on the end so its exactly the same to where the cutter starts which makes it easy for rubbing but not sure as its as accurate as working off a cutting portion say something out a bit or so close it maybe it doesnt matter.