Need some reassurance please.

[scott vroom]

Sam, are these raised panel doors? If so, I would think a dead flat center panel would tend to flatten slightly crooked stiles and to a lesser extent shorter rails once glued and clamped. Most of the doors doors I've made were from 13/16 S2S and not perfectly flat. Adjustable blum hinges will help, I don't recall any big issues with wobble.

Just my 2 cents worth.

[Sam Murdoch]

Sam, are these raised panel doors? If so, I would think a dead flat center panel would tend to flatten slightly crooked stiles and to a lesser extent shorter rails once glued and clamped. Most of the doors doors I've made were from 13/16 S2S and not perfectly flat. Adjustable blum hinges will help, I don't recall any big issues with wobble.

Just my 2 cents worth.

No unfortunately - simple 1/4" ply MDF veneered panels. They could actually work against me. Fortunately most panels will be 12" or less wide.

[Jerry Olexa]

Your analysis is correct but flatter is better....IMHO

[Wayne Lomman]

If you have fully adjustable hinges and you select your timber carefully, you will get away with it. However, the fact you felt the need to ask suggests that you really know the correct answer. Cheers

[Dave Sabo]

I'm scratching my head here.

Why do your doors need to be so thick ?

3/4" finished is what I encounter 99.9% of the time especially on full overlay. Is this a regional thing ?

I can see this if you were doing full beaded inset doors, but not for full overlay. The Euro box guys wouldn't think twice about using 3/4" thick doors. Nor would the national manufactures of framed cabinets.

[Sam Murdoch]

I'm scratching my head here.

Why do your doors need to be so thick ?

3/4" finished is what I encounter 99.9% of the time especially on full overlay. Is this a regional thing ?

I can see this if you were doing full beaded inset doors, but not for full overlay. The Euro box guys wouldn't think twice about using 3/4" thick doors. Nor would the national manufactures of framed cabinets.

They aren't thick - in this case. I will be making 3/4" thick doors. My typical builds are 13/16" because I start with 5/4 stock and usually by the time I'm at 13/16" the stock is flat so I stop . I then make the face frames a 1/16" thicker so that I can flush my doors to the ff faces and still use a bumper.

Thicker indicates "custom" because of the 99.9% otherwise that you mention.

[Mel Fulks]

I'm sure it will be ok ,because you can and will look before you cut. I've always complained bitterly about having to work with any pre dressed wood.

[Martin Wasner]

They aren't thick - in this case. I will be making 3/4" thick doors. My typical builds are 13/16" because I start with 5/4 stock and usually by the time I'm at 13/16" the stock is flat so I stop . I then make the face frames a 1/16" thicker so that I can flush my doors to the ff faces and still use a bumper.

Thicker indicates "custom" because of the 99.9% otherwise that you mention.

I'm curious why you start with 5/4. Hogging off 7/16" is a lot of effort and wood chips.

[Mel Fulks]

I was wondering about the 5/4 too. But I've seen 5/4 from bad sources that was so twisted ,bowed,and crooked ....that you would need 6/4 from same suplier.

[Sam Murdoch]

I'm curious why you start with 5/4. Hogging off 7/16" is a lot of effort and wood chips.

I order 5/4 that has been dressed 2 sides to usually about 1-1/6" +/- and with 1 edge ripped straight. This saves me lots of time and aggravation in my small shop and allows me to sort wood for projects quickly, matching color and grain if necessary. I'm still wasting stock to get to the intended thickness but I never need to compromise on flat. The lack of my SOP has me a bit nervous this time around .

Thanks everyone for the discussion.