Securing workpieces

[Rob Matarazzo]

One of my greatest difficulties in working with hand tools has been in securing the workpiece. For example, I recently needed to reduce the thickness of a small piece of 1/2" maple stock to 3/8". The piece measured roughly 1-1/2" x 15". I attempted to plane it down to thickness, but securing the piece was very challenging. I tried stopping one end with a bench dog and the other end with a piece of 1/4" thick scrap held down with a clamp. I managed to get it done, but not without a lot of difficulty. I wanted unobstructed access to the whole piece. What could I have done to make this easier?

[David Eisenhauer]

I use something called a "doe's foot" (as in female deer) or a notched batten that is held in place by my holdfasts. I have a couple of them in 3/16" thickness so i can work down to 1/4" material without interference for my planes. I believe Lost Art Press has a photo of one in use.

[Nicholas Lawrence]

Practice helps a lot. When I started using planes, the work would move all over the place unless it was in a vise. A while ago I made some moldings from some stock that was about 3/16 too thick, and had to reduce it similar to what you are describing. I just used a stop at one end, and it worked fine.

If you have not seen Mike Siemsen's video on the viseless bench, it is worth looking it up on YouTube. It is a bit lengthy, but there is a lot of good stuff packed in it. Pay attention to the part where he is demonstrating how the work will move if you are planing incorrectly, but stay there and behave if you are doing it correctly.

[Chet R Parks]

Rob, you might want to check out The English Woodworker http://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/...-batten-video/
Chet

[Rob Matarazzo]

Thanks all. I'll have to try the batten idea. (And also work on my planing technique )

[Christopher Charles]

A 'sticking board' can help too- a screw stop and a long short fence. A sharp blade and wax on the handplane will also reduce movement.

Best,
Chris

[Jim Koepke]

Depending on the width of the stock wedges between two rows of dogs against the work can help stop lateral movement.

Chris mentions a 'sticking board.' Dogs and some scrap can turn the top of your bench into a big sticking board.

Here is the "Viceless Devices" episode of The WoodWright's Shop:

http://www.pbs.org/video/2365309201/

There may be a few ideas in there.

jtk

[Frederick Skelly]

Chet, Jim,
Thanks for posting both of those!

Chet, I use battens, but sorta stumbled into the "how to" part and this your link let me tune my technique.

Jim, I've heard folks rave about "St. Roy", but I never spent any time watching him. I really liked the way he demonstrated using the tools to make that bench appliance. (IIRC, didn't you post a device like that you'd built a year or so ago?) I learned a lot just watching the incidental things he did. That was very helpful.

I appreciate it guys!
Fred

[Jim Koepke]

(IIRC, didn't you post a device like that you'd built a year or so ago?)

Yes, it was made after watching that episode of his show.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...Without-A-Vise

jtk

[Brian Holcombe]

I just screw down a planing stop.

[Jim Koepke]

I just screw down a planing stop.

I'll drop one in a dog hole.

jtk

[steven c newman]

Something like this?
fixed jig.JPG
Cleat along the back edge, cleats front and rear. I attach mine to the bench, others can use a scrap panel clamped to the bench's top.

[Jason Dean]

I use a 2x4 with three screws driven into it, the heads sticking just proud of the surface such that the edges of the screw heads bite into the work to be planed. I place the work piece on my 2x4, against the screw heads, and drive the third screw into the 2x4 at the other end of the work on a slight angle, effectively pinching the work piece between the three screws. With this approach the board can be quite thin. One can also use brass screws if they were concerned that the plane might nick the screws.