Simple Bookcase

[Ted Reischl]

This is a simple bookcase made out of pine (construction grade 2X material). It will be painted.

3.jpg

There is about $35 worth of materials in it, a total of 7 2X6's. In this area, anything over 6 inches wide is SYP, which I like, but has a nasty tendency to clog up the drum sander in a heartbeat.

I have read quite a few posts on this forum about how building furniture from construction pine will not work, it is too wet, warped, twisted, cupped, bowed etc according to the "experts".

Here is my routine for working with it:

Pick out decent boards to start with.

Rough cut and resaw required pieces.

Use frame and panel construction when possible.

Let wood stand a few days after resawing so it can do all the cupping it feels like.

Flatten the boards.

Cut to finish size.

Do joinery.

Probably the big key in there is cutting rough size and letting the wood sit for a day or so after doing any resawing.

As far as I am concerned the process is not much different than working with hardwood other than the resawing. But then I read here about guys who are trying to flatten hardwood boards and that 13/16 doesn't leave them enough material to end up with 3/4 when flattened. Not a problem when you start with thicker stock, obviously. I resaw to about an eight thicker than I will need.

BTW, I do not have a planer or a jointer. I sold them about 5 years ago. I find that a long board on TS fence works just fine. I rarely face jointed to begin with. I put 35 grit paper in the drum sander when I want to hog off material. Works fine and I am not sure if it is actually much slower than a planer. What I do NOT miss about the planer is replacing expensive blades or the chip out that occurred at the worst of times.

One of the other benefits of working with cheap, twisted, cupped, bowed construction lumber is that you can try things without breaking the bank. Want to try a different shape molding? Go ahead, the material cost a buck or two. Big deal. When it is 5 or 10 bucks it makes a person hesitate or sit around pondering for a few hours.

Ahhh, there used to be a saying: "An expert is any ordinary guy more than 50 miles from home."

I have amended that to: "An expert is any ordinary guy with an internet connection."

I am no expert, but I have built a lot of pine furniture over the years.

[George Bokros]

Looks good.

[Mel Fulks]

I like it,and there is a long history of painted furniture informal and formal. My own bookcases are mainly 3/4 inch pine shelving boards ,picked for small knots, and painted. And fine old hardwood cases often have pine shelves with a hardwood edge.

[Vince Rosypal]

Looks Great Ted
Thanks for posting this and your comments in my painted wood thread

[Charles Taylor]

Looks well done. Very nice.

[Randal Blair]

This is a simple bookcase made out of pine (construction grade 2X material). It will be painted.

3.jpg

There is about $35 worth of materials in it, a total of 7 2X6's. In this area, anything over 6 inches wide is SYP, which I like, but has a nasty tendency to clog up the drum sander in a heartbeat.

I have read quite a few posts on this forum about how building furniture from construction pine will not work, it is too wet, warped, twisted, cupped, bowed etc according to the "experts".

Here is my routine for working with it:

Pick out decent boards to start with.

Rough cut and resaw required pieces.

Use frame and panel construction when possible.

Let wood stand a few days after resawing so it can do all the cupping it feels like.

Flatten the boards.

Cut to finish size.

Do joinery.

Probably the big key in there is cutting rough size and letting the wood sit for a day or so after doing any resawing.

As far as I am concerned the process is not much different than working with hardwood other than the resawing. But then I read here about guys who are trying to flatten hardwood boards and that 13/16 doesn't leave them enough material to end up with 3/4 when flattened. Not a problem when you start with thicker stock, obviously. I resaw to about an eight thicker than I will need.

BTW, I do not have a planer or a jointer. I sold them about 5 years ago. I find that a long board on TS fence works just fine. I rarely face jointed to begin with. I put 35 grit paper in the drum sander when I want to hog off material. Works fine and I am not sure if it is actually much slower than a planer. What I do NOT miss about the planer is replacing expensive blades or the chip out that occurred at the worst of times.

One of the other benefits of working with cheap, twisted, cupped, bowed construction lumber is that you can try things without breaking the bank. Want to try a different shape molding? Go ahead, the material cost a buck or two. Big deal. When it is 5 or 10 bucks it makes a person hesitate or sit around pondering for a few hours.

Ahhh, there used to be a saying: "An expert is any ordinary guy more than 50 miles from home."

I have amended that to: "An expert is any ordinary guy with an internet connection."

I am no expert, but I have built a lot of pine furniture over the years.

Great work! I too have always heard the things you mentioned about 2x material.
your tips are really going to help me.
Thanks!!!!

[michael langman]

Really nice book case Randal. Thanks for the tips.