Waterfall Clamping:

[Bill Adamsen]

Bill Adamsen,

You actually can fold a miter as thick as the one discussed around biscuits oriented perpendicular to the joint line.

As I was drawing up that diagram I was wondering if that approach might work. Of course the alignment is really critical ... perhaps you are cutting them in when the panels are already taped together but flat. yes that would work as long as you can get the chips out of the joint ... excellent suggestion. Do you have a trick for getting the Lamello perpendicular to the joint? Also, assuming you insert the biscuit after the fold and just chisel or cut the excess?

Apologies to Andrew ... when I re-read his post that approach (in my diagram) was exactly what he was talking about. Prashun, great suggestion on the sandpaper. Took me a bit to envision where you were suggesting but now it makes sense.

[John TenEyck]

This version would only show under one surface, so if you put that under the top no one will see it: https://www.amazon.com/Zipbolt-11-56...words=zip+bolt

JOhn

[Kevin Jenness]

Bill,

In a 2" thick panel, the mitered surface is about 2 7/8" wide, thus you can bury a #20 biscuit in the joint with no overhang. I did not cut the joints myself in the job I referred to, but I assume the slots were cut prior to taping up using some kind of adjustable fence jig to index the biscuit jointer. I guess it's possible that the joints were taped, folded back and the slots were cut using a v-shaped fence that straddled the open joint. Now you have piqued my interest, I will have to ask my former shopmate Guy next time I see him.

Many moons ago Tage Frid wrote an article for FWW in which he showed how he cut aligned slots for splined miters using a router with a template guide collar and a plywood comb jig. He used the same style clamping cauls as Andrew suggested.

For some reason I had not come across the miterfold technique prior to joining that shop in 2001, but we used it a lot for mitered returns on cabinet end panels among other things- very quick and reliable for edge grain solid, plywood and mdf joints. Adding splines complicates things but is necessary for end grain miters with any structural aspect such as John is doing.

[Keith Mathewson]

Thanks for your suggestions, everyone.

Keith, what are the vacuum pods that you speak of? Do you mean the type of suction cups used to carry glass? This suggestion really has me curious and considering flipping my pair of Festool vacuum clamps upside down and putting the board that the 12" K body clamps are holding in my picture behind them.
.

Search youtube for vacuum clamps there are a number of them, I did one as well. Basically it is two vacuum bars on either side of the miter. The approach is much as others have suggested but there isn't a need to glue anything to the surface which needs to be removed later.

[Edwin Santos]

If you don't want to use sandpaper under the clamping jigs for fear of scarring your finished workpiece, you can use high quality double stick tape. I have become a big fan of it. I buy a good brand from Peachtree Woodworking, and it leaves no residue, grips very well.

[keith micinski]

Double stick duck tape under the bottom of the 45 cauls would work perfectly and then Would peel off with no problem when done.

[John J Wilson]

Hi All,

I installed the island a couple/few weeks ago and wanted to follow up with some pictures. Thanks for all of the advice. IMG_1786.jpgIMG_1829.jpgIMG_1826.jpg

[Matt Day]

Looks great! Nicely done

[Pat Barry]

Looks like you had just enough clamps to get the job done. Nice Job!

[Jeff Bartley]

Looks good! Did you build the cabinets too?

[lowell holmes]

I don't think anyone uses them anymore, but I would use biscuits. I have a Porter-Cable biscuit joiner and an air tight jar full of biscuits.

The biscuits align the wood panels in the joint. I have never had a glue joint fail.

I like your joint, it is impressive.

[Jim Morgan]

Joint came out really well! Hope you gave yourself a pat on the back.

[John J Wilson]

Thanks, all.

Jeff - No, I didn't build the cabinets at this project, though about 75 percent of the work that I do is custom cabinet design/builds.
Lowell - The joints in this piece have 10mm x 50mm domino tenons about every 4" or so. If I recall correctly, something like 12 per joint.

Here's a shot of the other side of the piece. IMG_1831.jpg

[Prashun Patel]

perfect. Nicely done!

[andrew whicker]

awesome! Looks good