Wet sanding on the lathe

[Steve Bistritz]

Thanks so much Doug!!!!!!

[Bill Jobe]

Bill, folks use a lot of terms interchangeably. I prefer to use "grain" to refer to the direction of growth, evidenced by pores and growth rings with alternating hard and soft wood. Figure, on the other hand, is usually referred to as the undulating grain in certain pieces that when cut creates chatoyance. This occurs because by cutting across the "waves" one exposes alternating long grain and end grain. Often, this is referred to as curly, tiger, quilted, etc. You have some of that in your walnut. IMO, if one wants to preserve chatoyance, then oil is avoided. However, using oil will enhance the contrast of the undulating grain by darkening the end grain because it will soak up more of the finish/oil than will the long grain.

Wood can also have color created by spalting or fungus, mineral streaks, Ambrosia beetles, and other insects. Often streaks of color are just a part of the naturally occurring coloration in certain woods. I hear people refer to this as "grain" or "figure", but I typically do not associate those terms with color.

So.... if what you are wanting is "deep figure" then you need to decide between the chatoyance or the contrast created by an oil finish. For me, I like the contrast moreso than the chatoyance, but that is my personal preference. To that end, I would do just what you are doing.

For "killer gloss" one must have both a flat, smooth surface and closed pores. Wet sanding with the oil finish will go a long way toward filling the pores, especially if you will push the slurry into the pores by wiping it across the grain and letting the finish set some between grits. Then, it is going to take multiple coats of finish, applied carefully, with wet sanding of the finish a couple of times along the way, and for me, just prior to buffing.

I'm experimenting on a smaller bowl I hadn't finished yet.
I just wet sanded with 320 and tof/mineral spirits. Do I sand and wipe more than once before letting it dry?

[John Keeton]

Once per grit for me, but it is critical that all sanding scratches from a prior grit are removed before proceeding further. I spend progressively less time as I move up thru the grits with the most time at 150 dry. I don't wet sand until 220.

[robert baccus]

There are some great articles on U-Tube concerning French polishing done the traditional way. These go into detail on materials and techniques. I have a copy of a book written in the 1600's by the director of wood finishing for Louise 14th. Covers this and finishing with wax, shellac, oils and lacquers. There were many new materials for finishing as well as woods from the new world.

[John K Jordan]

...Now to the French polishing. There are many ways to do this and many sites on the web describing it. I use ...

Doug, very nice write-up. This is much the way I do french polishing except I never tried denim, I use thin cotton with an extra wad inside, tied at the top as you mentioned. I use a pad like this for rubbing with pumice and rottenstone too as learned from a gun stock finishing article.

I also like your explanation of how the grain orientation affects the appearance of wood when oil is applied which well describes the effect of oil on figured wood. I finish many of my pieces with oil using the same technique you described but I usually use "danish" oil instead, which probably has a BLO base. I occasionally repeat after the initial drying, but just wipe on, wipe off with no soaking. This can be buffed to a shine if desired without a building up a layer on the surface or filling the pores. I often prefer a soft sheen instead of a gloss.

BTW, I do use gallons of BLO, but around the farm instead of on turnings - rake and wheelbarrow handles, barn doors, wood benches and steps, etc., brushed on thick and left to dry. It works wonders for wood left in the elements.

JKJ

[Hayes Rutherford]

Still another description of French polishing that is pretty good. Somewhere in the article is a photo of the "vapor trail" that is left when things are happening right. http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luth...chpolish1.html

[ron david]

There are some great articles on U-Tube concerning French polishing done the traditional way. These go into detail on materials and techniques. I have a copy of a book written in the 1600's by the director of wood finishing for Louise 14th. Covers this and finishing with wax, shellac, oils and lacquers. There were many new materials for finishing as well as woods from the new world.

do you do any french polishing at all ?
ron

[Jay Mullins]

Thanks for taking the high road.

[robert baccus]

No longer like a lot of things. I Perfected my techniques in lacquer finishing and can duplicate (?) a french polish on the lathe in a small fraction of the time using newer materials and techniques. Many of these I learned finishing old jalopies & show cars in my misspent youth when lacquer was the only great finish available. It is very easy, forgivable and repairable and very easy to "rub down" to any gloss desirable all on the lathe. I only touch up the bottoms and sign them after dismounting. Interesting--Sean Connery was discovered while doing french polishing on coffins in London. May be a way to Hollywood.