Thinking about buying a new bandsaw

[David Metzman]

I have a 1980s or older Makita resaw band saw. I use it to cut bowl blanks (I am not a production turner) out of pieces of logs. soemtimes they can be pretty thick like 10 inches. Generally green hardwood. On line, people comment that it is under powered - it is a very small motor physically.
I do not know if it is set up correct but I have a narrow blade on it and it tends to get stuck at times and not cut curves well or at all and not cut straight. One issue is that the logs do not always have a smooth side even after using a chain saw so sometimes they rock a bit when cutting.
Therefore I am thinking of buying a new saw. Under $1000.
I am thinking of either a 10-324 Rikon - for 875 including shipping
http://www.rockler.com/rikon-10-324-...and-14-bandsaw
or the Grizzly 513 $984 delivered:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/17-2...ition/G0513ANV

any views or opinions or suggestions. I live in Northern NJ.

Thanks,
David

[Dennis Ford]

Either of the two saws you are considering are pretty good saws BUT other than HP, I doubt they are as good as the one you have. How difficult would it be to put a 2 hp motor on the Makita?

[Reed Gray]

To cut 12 inches high, you need 1 hp minimum, and 2 is better. Other than that, having a good sharp blade is just as important. Ripping a log length wise is really difficult if you don't have one flat side. There are variations of sleds you can use (Carter Bandsaw products). For cutting rounds, if your blank isn't flat and rocks at all, you can/will lose a blade.

robo hippy

[Roger Chandler]

I would like to see you get a saw with computer balanced cast iron wheels, and not aluminum wheels. There is significant torque increase in the cut with cast iron wheels vs. aluminum. That Grizzly is a nice saw, but if it were me, I would spring for a saw with cast iron wheels, even if it took a couple hundred more to get it.

Wet bowl blanks need a good blade and decent power. I have two saws in my shop an 18" Jet and a 14" Grizzly with a 1 hp motor...the G0555LX, and with a good blade I can cut full 12" blanks with it. I use the "Woodturners" blade from Highland Hardware, which are 3/8" wide, .032 thickness and 3 tpi...........made for what you are wanting to do.

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/w...dsawblade.aspx

regular bandsaw blades are usually .025" thick and 4 tpi.......the 3/8" width makes good turns in wet wood, and the teeth set is wider on the Woodturners blade to clear the kerf much better. take a look at the link above.

[M Toupin]

I have a narrow blade on it and it tends to get stuck at times and not cut curves well or at all and not cut straight. One issue is that the logs do not always have a smooth side even after using a chain saw so sometimes they rock a bit when cutting.

Your BS is more than capable but you have a few things working against you right off the bat. If the blade shown is the one you're having problems cutting circles with then yes, you're going to have a problem. The blade looks to be at least a 1/2" if not wider and a fairly high tooth count. Get a 3/8" blade designed for green wood and you'll have better luck.

The second issues is the rocking, if it's rocking during the cut then it's binding the blade which is just adding to your problems. Fix those problems and give it a tune up first, I'm betting you'll see much better performance.

Mike

[david privett]

I think I will also go with getting a bigger 240 volt motor and see if that saw works out, I have a GRIZ 513 anniversary model I am very happy with it . With that said I use 3/4 inch 10 tpi blades (They last a long time but do cut slower) and cut 45 degrees off the corners of square bowl blanks and round on the lathe, but that is just what I do.

[Barry McFadden]

I recently bought a Rikon 10-326 bandsaw and love it. Cuts through my 12" high turning blanks with no problems. I wanted to stay with 110v and the motor seems plenty at 1 3/4 hp.

[David M Peters]

I'd cast another vote for trying out a circle-cutting jig; on a large piece of potentially wobbly wood the center pin helps me keep the blank steady. But I will also add that if my chainsaw job leaves any protrusions I'll lop them off with a chisel before going to the bandsaw. It really helps to have a bar that's long enough to go through the whole log. Making two intersecting cuts with a short bar makes getting a flat, stable bottom a lot harder.

[Bob Bouis]

Have you tried just skipping the bandsaw? It only takes a minute or two to turn an octagon into a circle on the lathe. The only reason IMO to try to cut blanks perfectly round is if they're at the edge of the capacity for your lathe. If that's the case skip the bandsaw and buy a bigger lathe...

[Ron Rutter]

Spend your cash on a bigger motor & a proper blade- as mentioned - 3/8" x 3 tooth x .032", & maybe a chainsaw with a longer bar. If you have a serious problem with rocking get an electric plane. Knock off the corners with the chainsaw. Cheers! Ron.

[David Metzman]

Thank you for all the advice. I am thinking about trying my hand at changing the motor (and getting a new saw blade as recommended. Does anyone have any advice on that? What motor to add, power, where to get pullies, speed, etc? I am adding a picture of the current motor. It is small, not sure HP.

Also, two issues with the current saw is that I do not have a miter and the slot for it is narrow and does not go all the way. Also, the table does not tilt (at least with out major work). I current spin things very rough and get beat up getting them in round on the lathe. Seems easier to use the saw.

One additional question, the guides under the table do not fit well. There are two thumb screws there to attach guides. Any suggestions?

Thanks, David

[David Metzman]

IMG_2504.jpg

Here is a picture of the current motor

[Reed Gray]

I always use a 1/2 inch by 3 tpi blade. I can cut 6 inch diameter blanks with that no problem. I prefer the Lennox Diemaster Bimetal blade. They cut longer and straighter than the others. I do prefer the thicker blades as well, the thin ones just flex too much, no matter how gentle you are, or how sharp the blade is. They get resharpened at a local saw shop.

robo hippy

[david privett]

look for a ID tag on the motor , get a picture of it and blow it up so it can be seen well enough and take it to a electric motor shop they should be able to help you out, a exact frame type match be available. I would keep the same pulley size, unless motor speed changes. The tiltable table you have to weigh that out how much you need it. The guides might be able to be replaced with a universal set in what ever material you decide is best for your applications of use. Maybe a griz g0513 is not such a bad idea with these other issues.

[ron david]

you may have to adapt abeter motor in there. alot of those Makita motors are expensive to rplace and they are usuall an odd ball size. I would spend your money on fixing it up. get your guides all in good shape. give it a good tune-up
ron