General Finishes Enduro Clear Poly ??

[Sam Murdoch]

Would anyone with experience with this product as a cabinet finish say that it looks like a "plastic" finish compared to other products?

Am looking for a non yellowing waterborne finish that can be applied with an HVLP but that won't look like a polyurethane floor.

I'd be happy to find an oil finish satin that I can apply by hand but have no idea what oil product won't amber.

My only other recent experience with spraying waterborne is MLC Aqualente, but I was not impressed with its durability.

Is the GF ECP a good choice?

Thanks very much for your comments.

[Prashun Patel]

I have Satin Clear Poly on bath and bar cabinets and on my kitchen table and a coffee table. I find it to look fine. It does not have the clarity of something like a Waterlox.

Yes, it's a tad plasticky looking, but I would say less-so than polyurethane. I think this is in the eye of the beholder, though, and I am comparing gloss arm r seal in my head to satin Enduro Clear Poly. The sheen makes this comparison unfair I think.

Bottom line though, I like it and will use it again, and I consider myself a 'hate the plastic look' snob.

Sorry I can't be more scientific in my help.

[Sam Murdoch]

I have Satin Clear Poly on bath and bar cabinets and on my kitchen table and a coffee table. I find it to look fine. It does not have the clarity of something like a Waterlox.

Yes, it's a tad plasticky looking, but I would say less-so than polyurethane. I think this is in the eye of the beholder, though, and I am comparing gloss arm r seal in my head to satin Enduro Clear Poly. The sheen makes this comparison unfair I think.

Bottom line though, I like it and will use it again, and I consider myself a 'hate the plastic look' snob.

Sorry I can't be more scientific in my help.

No need to apologize Prashun, I know I am asking for subjective impression. Still, I need to ask . Hate to buy a gallon of product - spray 1 sample and realize that it's the wrong finish. Looking for a consensus from those who have seen. Thanks.

[John TenEyck]

I've used several gallons of Enduro Clear Poly. I don't find it looks plastic like at all, quite the opposite. It's as clear as HP Poly and that is really clear. I mostly use satin, and they are never dead clear, obviously. But here's what HP Poly looks like in gloss, and I'm quite sure Clear Poly will look the same. The black was done with GF Milk Paint and HP Poly satin, for reference.





Or use Enduro Lacquer instead, as it's acrylic, not poly, and as clear as water. Both are KCMA rated; HP Poly is not.

OH, one last thing. Both Enduro Clear Poly and HP Poly are super simple to spray and flow out beautifully. Clear Poly has a #4 Ford viscosity around 45 seconds IIRC, and you can spray it straight from the can.



John

[Sam Murdoch]

Thanks John. I've got to study these products so that I can make sense of the options you refer to. Is the Enduro Lacquer (acrylic) a waterborne product too? Enduro Clear Poly sounds like it has merit.

[John TenEyck]

Yes. All Enduro products are WB.

John

[Sam Murdoch]

I'm liking the specs on the Enduro Pre-Cat Lacquer. Dry times and recoat better than for the Clear Poly. Hardness up by almost twice as the Clear Poly and the spray requirements are equal.

• Any down side that someone could tell me about?

• Good online dealers - for the New England area if possible?

Thanks very much.

[Prashun Patel]

As far as re-coat time goes, I spray Clear poly with about 30 minutes dry time in between coats. I've done 5 coats in a day like this. It's pretty quick. (Weather permitting)

I've always purchased CP from Amzn.

I find the CP plenty hard. In fact, it seems to resist scratches nicely. And that's on a kitchen table and coffee table where my son uses pencils to write. It's even held up well int the bathroom. It hasn't shown wear after 2 years.

[John TenEyck]

Sam, a pro I know who makes high, high end reproduction furniture uses mostly EnduroLacquer for his topcoats, so that tells me he likes the look and durability. He says it sprays great, too. Surprisingly, it's the cheapest product in that line of finishes. I have been using EnduroVar and Clear Poly as my predominant finishes, but am about to transition to Lacquer.

John

[Sam Murdoch]

Thanks for the info guys. Now - maybe one more question - Will two coats be sufficient for cabinet doors (in an adult household) with either of these products - the lacquer or the Clear Poly? Company recommends 3 coats for both but could 2 be perfectly fine?

AND - FYI - the data sheets ON THE SAME company web site gives conflicting info for the Pre-cat lacquer so I'm not certain anymore that it is a better end product than the CP - drying time, recoat time, and hardness don't agree from one page to the next.

Rather know what I can expect before I commit. Thanks for your help.

[John TenEyck]

Sam, whether or not 2 coats will be enough is going to depend on how porous the wood is and what you put down before the topcoats. I've had to use 3 coats most of the time. Only when I had really sealed the surface with stain, sealer, toner, and/or glaze could I get away with only two coats.

What little time I've spent evaluating samples made with the Lacquer didn't suggest it is a lot harder than CP. Unfortunately, data sheets are rife with errors and contradictions, and leave out info you would like to have. And the new SDS forms are a complete joke. I'm not just picking on GF, most everyone's are poor.

John

[Prashun Patel]

Sam-
Why the desire to put only two coats?

[Sam Murdoch]

Sam-
Why the desire to put only two coats?

78 doors and 5 cabinets + drawer fronts and trim parts - all by me . I will do what it takes but handling and sanding between coats X3 will be lots of work - as you know. I keep telling myself that this is 3 jobs not just one big job. Break it down into manageable chunks - I says to myself. Still 3 chunks is quite a lot of chunk in one.