Please help me make my first table saw purchase

[Steve Dublanko]

I've recently taken up woodworking and would like to purchase my first table saw. I want to use it to build furniture (kitchen table and a few coffee tables to start). I can't see myself needing to cut anything thicker than 8/4. I've done a ton of research but I can't seem to make up my mind. I have narrowed it down to three choices (all prices in CAD as i'm in Canada):

1. Rigid R4512 / Delta 36-725 contractor saw for ~$800. If I get a good saw (no alignment or other issues) this should work out well but I worry about getting a lemon. I'm also worried that this might not have enough jam to cut 6/4 or 8/4 hardwood -- I've read that it's ok but that you just have to take it slow.
2. Pick up an old Unisaw. This is nice in that I get a very powerful saw with a bullet proof design. I'm not a huge fan of the lack of safety features (riving knife) and the lack of a warranty. I've found a few but all of them needed varying degrees of work (fence, alignment, rust, belts, arbor, bearings). I could probably get into one for ~$1000 but that would definitely require some TLC. As an aside to this option - I found a guy locally who purchased a bunch of old unisaws from a trade school. The machines have 3 phase motors and need to be outfitted with a VFD in order to work with 220 1p. For $1650 he will provide a new blade, table insert, arbor nut and compression washer, sandblast w/ new paint, polished top, sawstop 36" t-glide fence system, lenze VFD and delivery w/ setup. I've seen some pictures of his work and it looks solid but $1650 is pretty steep for a used saw.
3. General International 50-270KDL M1 -- this is on clearance at a local shop -- $2100 (floor model, assembled a few weeks ago but never run).

I guess I'm just looking for some advice. As someone that is just starting out, the choices are a little daunting.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Andy Giddings]

Out of those choices I would go for the Unisaw if you can find a good one. If the guy modding the old trade school saws can give you some references to check from previous sales and they check out, worth a look. After market riving knives can be fitted if that is a concern.

[Mike Henderson]

Out of those choices I would go for the Unisaw if you can find a good one. If the guy modding the old trade school saws can give you some references to check from previous sales and they check out, worth a look. Aftermarket riving knives can be fitted if that is a concern.

I think what you mean is that aftermarket splitters can be fitted. You can't convert an old (non-riving knife) saw to a riving knife.

In my opinion, a riving knife is much better than a splitter.

I'd spend the extra and get the General International. You'll get a new modern saw with a real riving knife and a 3HP single phase motor. While VFDs are good to convert single phase to three phase, one of their big advantages is speed control which you won't use on a table saw. And it's just something more to worry about failing.

Mike

[Steve Dublanko]

This is kind of how I feel as well -- i'm not too keen on having a VFD and a motor to worry about. What would I be giving up by going with the GI over the unisaw? Would I be able to notice a big difference between the two?

[Bill Space]

I would go with the General. Looks like the Grizzly G0690 which gets very positive reviews.

Also the General is left tilt which many seem to prefer. Unisaw is probably right tilt.

As Mike said, a riving knife is very desirable too.

Buy once, by right, and you will be happy for many years.

Bill

[Michelle Rich]

Mike: some older saws can be fitted with a riving knife..check out sharkguard..I just put one on my 30 yr old delta contractor saw.

[lowell holmes]

I fitted my 10" Delta saw (many years ago) with plastic inserts and made wooden splitters. It works better for me than the metal splitter. Google table saw splitter and you will see ideas.

[Andy Giddings]

I think what you mean is that aftermarket splitters can be fitted. You can't convert an old (non-riving knife) saw to a riving knife.

In my opinion, a riving knife is much better than a splitter.

I'd spend the extra and get the General International. You'll get a new modern saw with a real riving knife and a 3HP single phase motor. While VFDs are good to convert single phase to three phase, one of their big advantages is speed control which you won't use on a table saw. And it's just something more to worry about failing.

Mike

No, I meant a riving knife as also stated by Michelle and I agree a riving knife is better than a splitter - that's why I switched my old one

[Steve Reich]

Mike, Michelle is right. I just put on the Shark Guard riving knife on my 30-year old Powermatic contractor saw. Lee Styron at Shark Guard can retrofit his design to almost any saw. And I agree with you, that the riving knife is a lot nicer than a splitter.

[Steve Reich]

Steve, I started this hobby about four years ago and began by buying a used contractor saw. It has taken a lot of TLC to get it into fine working shape, and I am currently very happy with it for what I do. But if I were to do it all over again, knowing what I know now, I'd opt for door number 2 and be patient to look for an old unisaw. These pop up on Craigslist frequently. I would think that you would just have to be patient to find the right one. On the other hand, if you have $2100 in your budget, you might just go for the General and be done with it. But you can probably get a good used unisaw, maybe some with nice aftermarket features (extension tables, outfeed tables, over-the-blade dust port, extra blades, etc.) added by a previous owner, for about $1500 USD. But again, you would have to be patient, and I'm not sure how far you would be willing to drive to pick up a used one.

[Prashun Patel]

If you are willing to spend $2100, then consider (please nobody slam me) a Sawstop PCS. You can get the hybrid for $2300, and the 3hp version for $2800.

There are a lot of nice-to-haves with this:

The fit/finish is comparable to any saw in this price range. Comes with riving knife. Comes with blade brake. Both of the PCS's have a cabinet style base, so they'll be better at dust collection than the contractor saws you're looking at.

the 5hp of the General is nice, but I doubt you'll need it for most 'house-sized' furniture.

There are hidden costs to buying old machinery including elbow grease and possibly upgrading parts. So, don't go that route just to save money.

[Mike Henderson]

Mike: some older saws can be fitted with a riving knife..check out sharkguard..I just put one on my 30 yr old delta contractor saw.

I'm not really familiar with the SharkGuard. But my definition of a riving knife is one that moves up and down, and tilts, with the blade. It sits just below the top of the blade so that you can make non-through cuts with the riving knife on the saw.

The splitters that I'm familiar with, do not go up and down with the blade, nor tilt with the blade. Normally, to make a non-through cut you have to remove a splitter.

Most older saws cannot be converted to a riving knife.

If my definition is correct, I prefer a riving knife because it never has to be removed. Anything that has to be removed and put back on generally does not get put back on.

Mike

[That certainly was the case with my old saw. I finally bought a modern saw and the riving knife stays on it all the time.]

[Mike Henderson]

If you are willing to spend $2100, then consider (please nobody slam me) a Sawstop PCS. You can get the hybrid for $2300, and the 3hp version for $2800.

There are a lot of nice-to-haves with this:

The fit/finish is comparable to any saw in this price range. Comes with riving knife. Comes with blade brake. Both of the PCS's have a cabinet style base, so they'll be better at dust collection than the contractor saws you're looking at.

the 5hp of the General is nice, but I doubt you'll need it for most 'house-sized' furniture.

There are hidden costs to buying old machinery including elbow grease and possibly upgrading parts. So, don't go that route just to save money.

I think the General is a 3HP. I looked the saw up on the web and that's what came up where I looked. Three HP is plenty.

I don't know how often old saws came up for sale, but I got a single phase Unisaw as part of a purchase of a "lot" of tools and sold it for $1,200. It apparently was made just before they started putting riving knives on them because it did not have one.

Mike

[andy bessette]

Don't screw around. Find a quality, used, cabinet saw in excellent condition.

[Steve Reich]

Hi Mike:

You can move the riving knife on the shark guard up and down and thus do not have to remove it for non-through cuts. With my Microjig MJ splitter, I always had to put in a different throat plate for non-through cuts. I'm planning on posting a review of the Shark Guard within a week or two and will try to address these questions.