Please help me make my first table saw purchase

[Darcy Warner]

I don't think a riving knife is an end all be all. Had saws with have saws without.


Never been an issue not having one.

[andy bessette]

"Never been an issue not having one."

Same here. Just use a good carbide blade.

[Michelle Rich]

aren't you asking a lot to have it move with the blade. Expecting a new technology for a 30 yr old saw. It is a riving knife, and it supplies safety for those of us who need it on old saws. Just because I have to move the riving knife up and down with my blade change, does not make it NOT a riving knife. We can play with words, but it is a riving knife.

[Mike Henderson]

aren't you asking a lot to have it move with the blade. Expecting a new technology for a 30 yr old saw. It is a riving knife, and it supplies safety for those of us who need it on old saws. Just because I have to move the riving knife up and down with my blade change, does not make it NOT a riving knife. We can play with words, but it is a riving knife.

Words are important because they allow us to be precise in our communications. I offered my definitions of both splitter and riving knife and I think it's important to distinguish between the two.

Mike

[Roger Marty]

I've recently taken up woodworking and would like to purchase my first table saw. I want to use it to build furniture (kitchen table and a few coffee tables to start). I can't see myself needing to cut anything thicker than 8/4. I've done a ton of research but I can't seem to make up my mind. I have narrowed it down to three choices (all prices in CAD as i'm in Canada):

1. Rigid R4512 / Delta 36-725 contractor saw for ~$800. If I get a good saw (no alignment or other issues) this should work out well but I worry about getting a lemon. I'm also worried that this might not have enough jam to cut 6/4 or 8/4 hardwood -- I've read that it's ok but that you just have to take it slow.
2. Pick up an old Unisaw. This is nice in that I get a very powerful saw with a bullet proof design. I'm not a huge fan of the lack of safety features (riving knife) and the lack of a warranty. I've found a few but all of them needed varying degrees of work (fence, alignment, rust, belts, arbor, bearings). I could probably get into one for ~$1000 but that would definitely require some TLC. As an aside to this option - I found a guy locally who purchased a bunch of old unisaws from a trade school. The machines have 3 phase motors and need to be outfitted with a VFD in order to work with 220 1p. For $1650 he will provide a new blade, table insert, arbor nut and compression washer, sandblast w/ new paint, polished top, sawstop 36" t-glide fence system, lenze VFD and delivery w/ setup. I've seen some pictures of his work and it looks solid but $1650 is pretty steep for a used saw.
3. General International 50-270KDL M1 -- this is on clearance at a local shop -- $2100 (floor model, assembled a few weeks ago but never run).

I guess I'm just looking for some advice. As someone that is just starting out, the choices are a little daunting.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I was in the same boat as you last year. I bought a Ridgid R4512. The alignment issues are way overblown. However the fence sucks on the R4512. It goes through 8/4 Maple with no problem. I was even doing that with a 40t blade (though it bogs down with a 40t blade-- 24t ripping blade is likely no sweat).

But due to the fence needing an upgrade and a "close call" where I almost absent-mindedly put my hand into the blade, I just got rid of the Ridgid R4512 and got a SawStop PCS. I have zero regrets, even though I accidentally tripped the brake cartridge after only 2 weeks of use!

My advice-- if you're willing to spend $2100 on a new table saw, then a $2300 SawStop PCS is a no-brainer.

Otherwise the Delta 36-725 seems to have a better fence than the R4512, and I'd get that. Sure, if you see a deal on a used cabinet saw for < $1000 and are not ready to spend $2300 for a SawStop PCS...then nab it.

[Andy Giddings]

I was in the same boat as you last year. I bought a Ridgid R4512. The alignment issues are way overblown. However the fence sucks on the R4512. It goes through 8/4 Maple with no problem. I was even doing that with a 40t blade (though it bogs down with a 40t blade-- 24t ripping blade is likely no sweat).

But due to the fence needing an upgrade and a "close call" where I almost absent-mindedly put my hand into the blade, I just got rid of the Ridgid R4512 and got a SawStop PCS. I have zero regrets, even though I accidentally tripped the brake cartridge after only 2 weeks of use!

My advice-- if you're willing to spend $2100 on a new table saw, then a $2300 SawStop PCS is a no-brainer.

Otherwise the Delta 36-725 seems to have a better fence than the R4512, and I'd get that. Sure, if you see a deal on a used cabinet saw for < $1000 and are not ready to spend $2300 for a SawStop PCS...then nab it.

I think you missed this post from the OP "The cheapest SawStop is $3658 CAD and thats for the 1.75HP version w/ 36" rails. If I upgrade to 3HP and 52" rails (comparable to the general), the price is $4417 which is more than double the cost of the General"

[Steve Dublanko]

Thank you all for the feedback you have provided, I really appreciate it. I'm leaning toward the General and will be going to the dealer over the weekend to see what I can do!

[Jim Dwight]

This is a bit different than the other inputs but I used to use a table saw with 60 inch rip capacity and am more happy with a 24 inch rip capacity saw and a track saw. The things you need the large rip capacity for are better done on a track saw. The fact that my shop is small (14x24) is a factor. But even with a large shop, maneuvering full sheets of 3/4 through a table saw is much more difficult than cutting up the same sheet with a track saw. Cut quality and accuracy are equal to better with the track saw. I would rather have a nice portable like the DeWalt or Bosch + a track saw than a good table saw. But a good table saw + a track saw would be even better.

If I was in the market right now, I would probably get the Grizzly hybrid table saw. The fence looks like it would work and I think 1.5-2hp is enough. It's all I've ever had and I can rip 3+ inches in hardwood, I just have to use a rip blade. If I use a 50 tooth general purpose, I have to go real slow and it gets a bit frustrating. Changing blades isn't a huge big deal. Spending a bunch more to get a bigger saw to avoid it doesn't make a lot of sense to me.

[Greg Magone]

If I could make any suggestion, I would consider a SawStop. The safety feature of the SawStop makes it something worth considering in my opinion.

[John Lankers]

Thank you all for the feedback you have provided, I really appreciate it. I'm leaning toward the General and will be going to the dealer over the weekend to see what I can do!

If I was considering one of the 3 you mentioned I would also jump on the GI: Good fence, real riving knife (not some makeshift doohickey) and a magnetic switch which you will appreciate when after a power outage the saw stays off while fooling around with your hands where they shouldn't be, I know what I'm talking. It is also a well respected saw on the used market if you would ever want to sell it down the road. Try to make an offer, you never know unless you ask.
Concerning the SawStop, a dado cartridge would set you back another couple 100 bucks and if you ever work with kind of dry lumber, pt lumber or non ferrous metal all this fancy technology wouldn't do you any good anyway.