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Thread: Improper bandsaw use - PSA

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
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    1,408
    Wow, thanks for posting this. A jarring reminder that a tool that is often considered relatively "safe" can be quite the opposite.

    What would be the safe way to crosscut a log? Would a V-shaped cradle be appropriate, and would screwing the work to the carrier/cradle also be considered standard operating procedure?

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    USA
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    5,582
    Quote Originally Posted by David Falkner View Post
    My guitar playing is that bad?
    Ok, yes, the guitar work was good. The bandsaw stuff scared me to watch even though you noted no gore involved.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Texas Hill Country
    Posts
    706
    David,
    Just to reiterate what most have already said...glad you weren't injured and thank you for sharing this with us and reminding all how quickly things can go awry when we get overly confident and lax with machine safety. It is much appreciated!

    Mike

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Southeastern PA
    Posts
    140
    David,

    I feel compelled to add my thanks. Thank you so much for posting this. You did a great service, especially since it was the bandsaw. I know at times I get lulled into thinking I'm safe at the bandsaw. This was a great reminder. I've had first hand reminders at the tablesaw and other tools. Your post will hopefully allow me to avoid that at the BS. If I were you, I would have been shaking for a week after that!

    I am very glad you were not injured and applaud you for posting this.

    Mike

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    NW Louisiana
    Posts
    894
    Thanks, Guys! My wife said my pulse increased when I mentioned the cost of the blade - ugh!

    I had a replacement blade and have been setting it up since yesterday afternoon. There are a lot of steps to setting one of these up correctly such that everything is square for a 14"+ wide cut. I don't cut woods that wide often but I need my setup to handle that with no issues.

    This morning I've been on the saw and have resawn some Honduras Mahogany, Maple, and Alder (cutting slices at 0.100"). The Mahogany was a 10" wide board and I need to know that my setup can cut to within a few thousandths corner to corner. Right now I have it close but I'm getting about 0.006" variance corner to corner and that's more than I want - prefer no more than 0.004". But I have CNC work to do so I'll have to pick this up later to finish the setup; I may have to settle for 0.006" for a while.

    David
    David
    CurlyWoodShop on Etsy, David Falkner on YouTube, difalkner on Instagram

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    NW Louisiana
    Posts
    894
    Quote Originally Posted by Victor Robinson View Post
    Wow, thanks for posting this. A jarring reminder that a tool that is often considered relatively "safe" can be quite the opposite.

    What would be the safe way to crosscut a log? Would a V-shaped cradle be appropriate, and would screwing the work to the carrier/cradle also be considered standard operating procedure?
    Yes, Victor, a V-shaped cradle is the way to go. Securing it in the cradle is even better - strap, clamp, or screw on the right side, not the cutoff piece would have been the way to go.

    Mental note - no shortcuts next time!!!

    David
    David
    CurlyWoodShop on Etsy, David Falkner on YouTube, difalkner on Instagram

  7. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Victor Robinson View Post
    Wow, thanks for posting this. A jarring reminder that a tool that is often considered relatively "safe" can be quite the opposite.

    What would be the safe way to crosscut a log? Would a V-shaped cradle be appropriate, and would screwing the work to the carrier/cradle also be considered standard operating procedure?
    Quote Originally Posted by David Falkner View Post
    Yes, Victor, a V-shaped cradle is the way to go. Securing it in the cradle is even better - strap, clamp, or screw on the right side, not the cutoff piece would have been the way to go.

    Mental note - no shortcuts next time!!!

    David
    Very good of you to post this vivid example of how things can go wrong. If you save even one person from stepping in the pothole, you've done a good deed for sure.

    I like the idea of screwing or securing the work to the cradle. I wonder if a few wedges tapped in like wheel chocks to prevent spinning would be a simple enough additional precaution. Once the work piece becomes taller than it is wide, maybe screwing it to a right angle sled that rides along the fence would work well.
    Thanks again, so glad you weren't injured.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Pepperell Ma.
    Posts
    93
    I would also like to add thanks for posting this. I'm a rookie to woodworking, but been an electrician since Reagan was president. I've seen, and committed, more acts of less than stellar thinking, than I would like to admit. Most of my shocks have been because I got too comfortable, than because of elements beyond my control. You have made me aware of how dangerous a bandsaw can be, I always considered it the safe saw. I enjoyed the guitar playing, but then I can only play the radio.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
    Posts
    12,298
    Quote Originally Posted by Edwin Santos View Post
    ...I wonder if a few wedges tapped in like wheel chocks to prevent spinning would be a simple enough additional precaution....
    I use wedges a lot with the bandsaw when processing log sections. I keep a box of wedge-shaped offcuts handy, some with a concave radius from rounding a bowl blank, and choose those that fit the best. A rip cut to flatten one side is almost always wedged for stability (unless ripping right down the center after cutting a flat down one side by some other means.) I've known people who use hot-melt glue to hold wedges in place but I haven't tried that.

    It's not just round wood that can be a problem - wedges are also needed underneath when sectioning a chainsawn block that is not flat on the bottom and could otherwise rock as the cut proceeded. I cram in wedges and cut through them as needed.

    I also use v-blocks for round stock such as dowels and rounds - just make sure the v-block is large enough to support well.

    I sometimes use wooden handscrew clamps to hold smaller round or oddly shaped pieces - rest and slide the clamp flat on the table. I have also on occasion used two clamps, one on either side.

    And screws are great to secure an irregular or round chunk to a wooden support.

    JKJ

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