Opinion Wanted -- Cutting a Running Splice on Crown Molding

[Robert Engel]

George,

Even with stained wood, I think the principle of glueing and using a backer as he demonstrates would be useful. Joining before installation is good idea, too. I agree a 22.5° scarf joint has better glueing surface.

Darcy,

Typical IME crown moulding wood will not move enough lengthwise to cause a gap. Took me a while but I've learned all moulding joints must absolutely be glued, not simply filled or even if tight, expect paint to do the trick. What I've found is over time the paint or filler will shrink, giving the appearance of the joint opening up. Settling and improper nailing can also cause problems down the road.

For crown, I think installing nailer boards is a good consideration.

[Mark Wooden]

Butt joints, and straight bevels are generally used in lower class work.
Just my .02

Peter, when you look down your nose at us, all we see is your boogers.
After more miles and years than you, I can pretty much see you didn't recognize a good splice when you saw one.

[Ole Anderson]

A pro buddy did my crown molding for me. He did a 45 degree splice on my one long run in the living room. It opened up about an 1/16" a year later. Amazing what a little painter's caulk can do...

[George Bokros]

A pro buddy did my crown molding for me. He did a 45 degree splice on my one long run in the living room. It opened up about an 1/16" a year later. Amazing what a little painter's caulk can do...

Works good if it is painted crown, mine is stained.

[peter gagliardi]

Peter, when you look down your nose at us, all we see is your boogers.
After more miles and years than you, I can pretty much see you didn't recognize a good splice when you saw one.

Mark, you are mistaken, sorry you took it this way. I wasn't looking down my nose at anybody.

I do however stand by my assertion that a butt joint is, was, and forever will be considered acceptable in "lower class work"- I get this from extensive reading and research of old texts while learning what I can of different levels and classes of work over the last few centuries.

I do not have the text in front of me, but this is not an idea that I originated, even if I choose to agree.

[Darcy Warner]

Every old house from Greek revival through high Victorian Era normally has butted joints. They still look good to this day.

Glue, a backer, a dowel, a biscuit, a domino, etc every butt joint done properly has looked better long term than any scarf joint I have seen.

[Mel Fulks]

I think some of the admonitions in old books have timed out. Don't think the authors would have thought much of "brick veneer " single thickness walls ....but they are catching on! In really early work some of the trim was thick and structural.

[Martin Wasner]

Uhhhh, why aren't you putting some spring in your scarf joints? You nail the one to the wall, and roll the other one behind it. Good luck on a short one, but long pieces is a cake walk.

I do 30º scarf joints. Why? I don't know.. I can't think of the bevel/angle numbers off hand.

[Jim Dwight]

Ron Paulk has a great series of youtube videos on crown molding. I am not saying he is better than people on this website but for those of us who are not extensively experienced, his tips are useful. I believe he makes joints cut at 45 degrees with the back of the crown flat on his Kapek. I haven't succumbed to the green cool aid but I also cut it flat at a 45 bevel. Ron also staples and glues a backer across the joint and I copied that too. I installed several rooms of crown before seeing his videos. I didn't use a backer, the joints opened.