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Thread: German Style Smoothing Plane.

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    USA
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    Nice work!

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Australia
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    Thanks Pat.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Marietta GA
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    1,120
    Ditto "Great Work!"

    Can't wait to see the test shavings....hoot!

  4. #19
    Neat technique, Stewie.

    I used my ECE plane yesterday flattening some apple wood:


  5. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Australia
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    Still waiting for the new double irons to arrive. I completed the rear bun and shaped the back end of the plane stock. I also added the front end bevels and the makers stamp. 1.5 tonnes of hydraulic pressure was needed to achieve a good imprint on Australian Jarrah end grain. I still need to remove the excess paint fill with a card scraper. I will do the wooden wedge and abutment block tomorrow. The sole length of this smoothing plane is 10 inches.




  6. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Australia
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    Completed the 1st stage of mortising out. (Outside the wedge abutment line and to a depth above the top line of the wear angle.) This cautious approach on initial depth reduces the likelihood of breaching the 2 targeted bevel angles. The pilot holes through the mouth were done on a pedestal drill with the tool rest locked in at a 95 degree angle. The double irons arrived in the post.




  7. #22
    Join Date
    May 2015
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    NJ
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    1,405
    That plane is going to be beautiful...Awesome craftsmanship.
    "The reward of a thing well done is having done it." - Ralph Waldo Emerson

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Australia
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    The 2nd stage of mortising out has been completed. A Dremel fitted with a spiral cutter was used to break through the mouth opening. The wear height was set at 3/4".






  9. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Australia
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    The 3rd stage of mortising out has the wedge abutments been formed. The double irons + wooden wedge have also been fettled in. The last photo shows the rear bun sitting in position behind the bed.






  10. #25
    Truly awesome! I'm wishing for that level of skill and/or confidence...

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Australia
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    Near completion. The side cheeks have been flared out and the eyes shaped in. All 4 sides of the plane stock flat sanded to 220 grit. The rear bun has been Hide Glued into position. The decision was made to make up a new front horn with some design changes. Those changes include a 180 degree dowel fit- stopped mortise and tenon joint on the heel. At this stage the new front horn has been roughly shaped ready for fine tuning work with finely stitched Logier Rasps. That will be completed tomorrow ready for gluing in. The 3rd photo shows my earlier attempt at shaping a German shaped front horn. (tote)





    Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 06-15-2017 at 3:53 AM.

  12. #27
    Wow, that's coming along great Stewie. It will work great with a new double iron.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Australia
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    The front horn is finally hide glued into position. I will allow the glue harden for 48hrs before I apply the 1st of 3 coats of Danish Oil.

    Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 06-16-2017 at 2:07 AM.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stewie Simpson View Post
    Near completion. The side cheeks have been flared out and the eyes shaped in. All 4 sides of the plane stock flat sanded to 220 grit. The rear bun has been Hide Glued into position. The decision was made to make up a new front horn with some design changes. Those changes include a 180 degree dowel fit- stopped mortise and tenon joint on the heel. At this stage the new front horn has been roughly shaped ready for fine tuning work with finely stitched Logier Rasps. That will be completed tomorrow ready for gluing in. The 3rd photo shows my earlier attempt at shaping a German shaped front horn. (tote)






    I missed this yesterday Stewie. Did you change from the dovetailed approach for the front tote? If so, I am not quite following what you described as a "a 180 degree dowel fit- stopped mortise and tenon joint on the heel". Would happen to be able to show a picture or two of what you came up with? Thanks

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Australia
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    Pat; if you have a look at the previous photo's I carved a 1/4" deep -1/2 round (180*) tenon on the bottom surface of the front tote. A matching mortise was then cut to seat this tenon prior to glue up. A vertical face of long grain was also dovetailed into the vertical wall that the tote is seated against. By doing so, I was able to change the gluing surface from long grain to end grain to long grain to long grain. Ideal gluing surface. Combined, both actions taken should provide enough strength to accommodate the pressure placed upon the front tote during service. My apologies for not taking a photo of the tenon mortise prior to glue up. It would have made it easier for the reader to follow.

    Stewie;

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