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Thread: Siding - from rough sawn pine

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    SE MI
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    194
    1) The foam is on the outside of the wall assembly, not the inside. It provides the WRB (weather resistive barrier) - and there is a peel and stick membrane between it and the OSB for multiple reasons. You can see a discussion of this technique here:

    http://www.forestryforum.com/board/i...?topic=57351.0

    It was also detailed in a Fine Homebuilding article several years ago.

    2) I nailed every 6" around the perimeter of the OSB sheets, and on the inside every 12". I don't recall where I found the fastening schedule, but it should have been something current.

    You can see progress photos here:

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/68046081@N00/


    I will certainly prime all edges, but don't know if there would be any benefit to painting the back side of the siding. I do not expect much moisture behind the siding in the form of rain or snow/ice, however since the back of it will be vented, any water should evaporate.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SE MI
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    Sort of making progress. I had to do some repair work on our shed, which took up two weekends of my time. I've done some research - "Woodlife Classic, 903" - appears to be a preservative with IPBC. I cannot tell if the cheaper version of this product (902) has it, might call the mfg. I also purchased a few "tools" - a Wixy for my planer, and a dusty deputy (funnel only) for collecting the shavings. When I planed the 2x6 girts outside I just let the chips fly all over, but then they would get blown back into the machine and caused the rollers to gunk up.

    Final steps:


    1. Plane to an even thickness, somewhere between 3/4" and 1", but only on one side
    2. Cut 2" strips for battens, otherwise leave boards alone unless they are significantly misshapen (shouldn't be unless they've warped)
    3. Apply wood preservative on all sides, except top and bottom
    4. Prime all sides, except top and bottom
    5. Lightly sand faces to remove any fibers
    6. Then, as the boards are cut for installation, seal and then prime the top/bottom and paint the rough side (visible face)


    I have to build a clean room of sorts for the paint/stain process. I do not want to get paint on the concrete (I plan to seal or epoxy it), nor on the timbers. I should have enough 6mil plastic left over from other tasks to make something.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SE MI
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    This is going to take forever:



    That was two days work, but my planer cannot keep up the pace. It keeps tripping the breaker (at the motor). From the manual, it sounds like it is drawing too much current. I flipped the blades, which greatly improved surface finish, but still have issues with it tripping. The unit was bought refurbished, but the blades were sharp, and the second edge looked fine.

    I'm taking off .015" per pass, on an 8" board. Any thicker and my dust cyclone cannot handle the shavings. I have a Wixey digital readout installed.

    Basically, this isn't working

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Marina del Rey, Ca
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    1,934
    Quote Originally Posted by John Pariseau View Post
    ...I have a DW734 - I might be able to run all of the boards through it though I've had problems with it gripping boards and feeding properly. I have a $100 Ryobi contractor table saw...
    Quote Originally Posted by John Pariseau View Post
    This is going to take forever...this isn't working
    Nothing that buying good machines can't fix.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SE MI
    Posts
    194
    Quote Originally Posted by andy bessette View Post
    Nothing that buying good machines can't fix.
    Sigh. I'm pretty much at the point where I'd purchase an industrial planer, as long as I can sell it at the end of the process. There's an "industrial" planer on Craigslist, but for the work it needs to get it running it was overpriced. I don't need a project on top of my project.

    The Ryobi is out - my uncle game me his old Craftsman 10" table saw from the 50's. Yes, it is a bit crusty, but the motor purrs and it will greatly improve my ability to rip the boards I need to rip.

    And I fixed the feed issues with the planer - paste wax. That was all it took.

    But yeah, not feeling very optimistic today.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Marina del Rey, Ca
    Posts
    1,934
    Based upon decades of excellent service from mine, that I bought new, I can recommend the Delta 13" planer. It produces zero snipe.

    dc-33.jpg
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    9,876
    Shear nailing schedule is 3 or 4 inches on the edge depending on species and nail size. I believe the 12" is fine in the middle. With pine I would stay at 3" or less. Clipped head nails are not allowed, ever!
    Note that building to seismic code should meet or exceed all wind loads.
    Bill D

    http://www.abag.ca.gov/bayarea/eqmap...PT08-Ch-3B.PDF

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SE MI
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    It's taking me 6-10 minutes per board, but I can only do two boards before the planer trips its internal breaker. 8" wide boards, .015" per pass.

    I have 31 boards planed.
    Last edited by John Pariseau; 09-23-2017 at 8:48 AM.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SE MI
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    There are a few planers of interest in my area:

    1 hour away: Shop Smith Pro (120v, 1.5hp?) M5990

    30 minutes away: Craftsman 306

    The 306 is a 220v machine, but the seller couldn't tell me what the motor was rated at. I'd have to put in a 220v line in the garage and move all of my wood up to the garage (unless someone can tell me a way to safely run 220v 100').

  10. #25
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Highland MI
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    Paint will eventually peel. Have you considered a solid stain instead? Also now is a good time to justify the purchase of an airless sprayer, I got the Graco X5 for around $300. A real time saver. To go with that, if you need to mask, use masking film, available in widths up to 8 feet. Also at the BORG.
    NOW you tell me...

  11. #26
    Join Date
    May 2005
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    Highland MI
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Pariseau View Post
    There are a few planers of interest in my area:

    The 306 is a 220v machine, but the seller couldn't tell me what the motor was rated at. I'd have to put in a 220v line in the garage and move all of my wood up to the garage (unless someone can tell me a way to safely run 220v 100').
    Just buy a 100' roll of 12-2 (10-2 if you are paranoid about voltage loss under full load) and add a plug that fits your planer. Hard wire to your panel or get a plug that fits whatever you have in your garage. Safely? That depends on your wiring knowledge. If you have to ask, maybe you shouldn't do it.
    NOW you tell me...

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SE MI
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ole Anderson View Post
    Just buy a 100' roll of 12-2 (10-2 if you are paranoid about voltage loss under full load) and add a plug that fits your planer. Hard wire to your panel or get a plug that fits whatever you have in your garage. Safely? That depends on your wiring knowledge. If you have to ask, maybe you shouldn't do it.
    So... I have enough knowledge to do the work safely, to specify gauges for a load, but I lack the training/experience to feel safe with what I figure out on my own. I've done my share of electrical work in the house (including fixing/rewiring a botched generator transfer switch install by an electrician) - but this is not really something I've ever done before.

    I'm temporarily running equipment in the workshop off of a #10 SJTW 3 Conductor extension cord, but it limits what I can run, generally I run just LED shop lights lights but I have run my table saw and now I'm running the Dewalt on it. I haven't checked the voltage to see what the drop is, but it makes me a bit uncomfortable.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SE MI
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ole Anderson View Post
    Paint will eventually peel. Have you considered a solid stain instead? Also now is a good time to justify the purchase of an airless sprayer, I got the Graco X5 for around $300. A real time saver. To go with that, if you need to mask, use masking film, available in widths up to 8 feet. Also at the BORG.
    Will consider the sprayer! However, I (well, "we" to be precise ) spent the better part of last month repainting the house, by hand (rollers, brushes). Two stories, T1-11. It needed recaulking, wood repair, panel replacement, trim replacement. But, we did it all by hand, and I will probably do the same for the barn.

    As for peeling - we've had very little peel on the house. It was built in 84, has had two coats of paint over its lifetime from what I recall. The only areas that peeled were directly under the drip edge. For the barn, the soffit on up I'll have metal - below that will be wood. Any horizontal trim will be azek (or some form of cellular PVC trim).

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SE MI
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    194
    I found a planer with these specs:

    15" x 8" capacity
    Appears to be a Delta clone, SA-380E, 15" Auto Planer
    220v, single phase
    2HP motor
    20A
    manual states 1/8" full width with the 2HP motor option
    new set of blades (blades that are mounted have some chips in them)

    I'm going to go see it Tuesday.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SE MI
    Posts
    194
    I did some research on wiring this up - I'd be interested in any feedback:

    30A, dual pole breaker
    #10 wire
    Length: approx 15'

    I think, provided this planer works, I'll locate the planer outside the garage and run it on nice days. If it works any better than the lunchbox planer, I should have things finished in a week or so. Otherwise, I'll have to bring it to the barn, which means a hefty wire expense. I'm hoping to resell the planer for nearly what I pay for it, so would rather keep it in the garage. I think I have two more good weeks of weather before it gets cool out.

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