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Thread: Attach Aluminum Angle to Concrete

  1. #1
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    Attach Aluminum Angle to Concrete

    I need to attach some aluminum angle iron to concrete but do not want to use Tapcon screws because the bit usually will wander some. This will be on the exterior. I want to attach a storm window to the angle iron. Will construction adhesive work for this purpose?

    Thanks
    George

    Making sawdust regularly, occasionally a project is completed.

  2. #2
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    Possibly, but I'd worry about it drying out long-term. Silicone caulk/adhesive would probably be a better choice.
    Yoga class makes me feel like a total stud, mostly because I'm about as flexible as a 2x4.
    "Design"? Possibly. "Intelligent"? Sure doesn't look like it from this angle.
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  3. #3
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    I would stay away from the adhesives.

    If you are concerned about drilling, I would use a ramset gun:

    http://www.ramset.com/

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Todd Mason-Darnell View Post
    I would stay away from the adhesives.

    If you are concerned about drilling, I would use a ramset gun:

    http://www.ramset.com/
    I see Home Depot rents a similar for $24 for 4 hrs. Not too bad. Have to look and see how expensive the fasteners are.
    Last edited by George Bokros; 05-29-2017 at 6:13 PM.
    George

    Making sawdust regularly, occasionally a project is completed.

  5. #5
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    If you lived closer....you could borrow my ramset gun and I'd provide you the charges and the nails. Free. I bought a full setup years ago when I was building my first house. It's been a lifesaver more times than I can count when it comes to fastening things to a concrete slab.
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  6. #6
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    While I agree that adhesives aren't necessarily the best choice in structural applications, this job doesn't sound all that demanding. FWIW, I've got a 40lb piece of artwork attached to my back border wall with a couple beads of silicone: it's four pieces of 12"x12"x3/8" granite tile glued to 24"x24" piece of Lexan (also using silicone). It's been there going on 10 years now, and I could probably do a chin-up on it.
    Yoga class makes me feel like a total stud, mostly because I'm about as flexible as a 2x4.
    "Design"? Possibly. "Intelligent"? Sure doesn't look like it from this angle.
    We used to be hunter gatherers. Now we're shopper borrowers.
    The three most important words in the English language: "Front Towards Enemy".
    The world makes a lot more sense when you remember that Butthead was the smart one.
    You can never be too rich, too thin, or have too much ammo.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lee DeRaud View Post
    While I agree that adhesives aren't necessarily the best choice in structural applications, this job doesn't sound all that demanding. FWIW, I've got a 40lb piece of artwork attached to my back border wall with a couple beads of silicone: it's four pieces of 12"x12"x3/8" granite tile glued to 24"x24" piece of Lexan (also using silicone). It's been there going on 10 years now, and I could probably do a chin-up on it.
    It may work for you but here in Ohio you get freezing and expansion in the winter. That will break the bond

  8. #8
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    Still - I would not want to risk a storm window blowing through the neighborhood. I suppose if you thoroughly cleaned the concrete and made certain it was dry...

    What holds the angle while the adhesive dries?

    If not tap cons perhaps some small lead shields into which you would fasten stainless flat head machine screws. A new masonry bit will help.
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  9. #9
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    A ramset would be very low on my list of tools to use for exposed exterior work, especially if you've never used one. Low degree of precision, likelihood of over or under driving the pin, no easy way o re-do a mistake, and a good chance that the concrete will spall, any of which will lead to despair. If you're dead set against tapcons, consider using either plastic or lead anchors with stainless steel fasteners.

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    I recently attached a bracket to brick using screws ans a hammer drill. I used the aluminum bracket as the drill guide and had no problem with the bit wandering. I driled one hole and inserted the screw, then I drilled the second hole through the existing hole in the aluminum.
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  11. #11
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    Why not anchor with the glue and once it is set up drill and use a tapcon or drive pins

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerome Stanek View Post
    It may work for you but here in Ohio you get freezing and expansion in the winter. That will break the bond
    I'll take your word for it, but that's sort of the point of using the flexible silicone stuff.
    Yoga class makes me feel like a total stud, mostly because I'm about as flexible as a 2x4.
    "Design"? Possibly. "Intelligent"? Sure doesn't look like it from this angle.
    We used to be hunter gatherers. Now we're shopper borrowers.
    The three most important words in the English language: "Front Towards Enemy".
    The world makes a lot more sense when you remember that Butthead was the smart one.
    You can never be too rich, too thin, or have too much ammo.

  13. #13
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    Are you talking about fastening to one of those precast concrete window sills or a larger piece of concrete? I would worry about a ramset into just a window sill. Small tapcons drilled well are probably ok. If the window is screwed to the brickmold all around I would just use caulk at the bottom.

  14. #14
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    It would be screwed in to the ends of concrete block, I think it is called an end block (kind with the finished end).
    George

    Making sawdust regularly, occasionally a project is completed.

  15. #15
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    Which ever way you choose make sure you isolate the aluminum from the concrete. The concrete will cause the aluminum to oxidize at an accelerated rate. Very accelerated.

    Tapcons are just as accurate as any screw, just make a guide for the bit to get started, Use the same guide to drill the aluminum angle.

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