What is causing this, and how do I avoid it.

[Kenton Keller]

I posted about this once before specifically working with cherry, and didn't get any replies. I have run into it again, and would sure like to know how to avoid it.

This is mainly cherry and walnut, but does have a couple of paduk and yellowheart sections in the middle of it. I turned it, sanded it and then soaked it in water to raise the grain. In the picture I have already started trying to sand this out, but originally it was somewhat green like a stain copper would make. The sink I soak in is corian, with a ss drain. Last time this happened, I was never able to fully get it out, and I suspect that will be the case here also.

IMG_3318[1].jpg
Ideas of how to avoid or why it is happening greatly appreciated.

[Matt Day]

How long was it in the water?

When I raise the grain on flat work I spray a light coat of water, not soak it. Wonder if soaking it for too long has anything to do with it?

[Bill White]

Yep! Don't soak. Just a spritz or two will do the job.
Bill

[Mike Circo]

As mentioned, soaking is not necessary.
Is that tap water? Minerals will stain, especially if a lot of water gets in (via a long soak) then evaporates. If your tap water is mineral laden, use distilled for grain raising.

[Kenton Keller]

Thanks Guys, I guess I will try just spraying and using distilled water and see what happens. It soaked maybe 15 minutes. It doesn't do it every time, but Cherry seems to have the biggest issue. Most of these things are kitchen items, that are going to be in the water often after I put on the mineral oil- beeswax.

[Ted Reischl]

You might try using a very, very thin cut of shellac. I typically buy a can of sanding sealer which is already a thinned down version of shellac, and then dilute with an equal amount of alcohol.

Shellac is food safe, in fact they use it to coat a lot of different pills.

Light sanding after it is dry, usually about 15 minutes or so at most. Very light sanding, the idea is to NOT raise the grain again.

[Don Jarvie]

All you need is to wipe it with a damp rag and the grain will raise. I do this to see if I got all of the sanding marks out.

[Bill Dufour]

Looks like mold to me. What was the temperature and humidity in the shop when this was wet?
Bill

[Kenton Keller]

After I took it out of the water I set it outside to dry I think it was around 80 degrees or better with not much humidity

[Bohdan Drozdowskyj]

Could it be an iron reaction to the tannins in the timber. When you set it to dry what was it resting on?

[Paul K. Johnson]

I'm thinking it is either mold or a chemical reaction with something in the wood with something in the sink (bleach, detergent, who knows...).

[Ed Aumiller]

Is it water with chlorine in it ?
i.e. city or town water ??

[Wayne Lomman]

It's a specific mould/fungus that occurs in some species (can't remember the name). Sawmillers have to be aware of it as it can occur in green logs if not milled and dried correctly. Keep the timber dry or if you must use water to raise the grain, wipe with a damp cloth and no more. Distilled water is way overkill. Any potable water is fine. Cheers

[Prashun Patel]

I think it is too uniform to be mold. I suspect iron or minerals in your water. Is the staining more with certain species such as white oak? Does the staining turn a brown color after months?

Does this happen if you soak it in distilled water or denatured alcohol instead of tap water?

[Bill Orbine]

Did you use steel wool on the wood for sanding. Or used a sandpaper that had been used for sanding metal before sanding wood?