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Thread: Tablesaw blade alignment problem

  1. #16
    If you are confident in your alignment measurements, blade and cutting technique, something may be causing your blade to deflect in the cut. When the board is at the end of the cut the tension releases, returning the blade back to 90.

    Deflection could be caused by a bad arbor bearing or warped flanges, tough wood, thin kerf blade, dull blade, etc.

    What happens if you cut down the middle of a larger piece? Do you have a full kerf blade to try?

    I keep my fences kicked out a little on the outfeed side. Cuts turn out just fine and no backside blade nicks.

  2. #17
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    Another thought, European style saws, I understand have short fences where the fence ends at the front of the blade. You could try a short fence by attaching a strip to your fence that stops at the front of the blade (maybe someone with a short fence can clarify exactly where it stops or a google search can ). If it solves your problem it would indicate the fence is the issue. If not it is likely a blade or arbor issue.

  3. #18
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    This explains it....http://www.popularwoodworking.com/wo...ink-were-crazy

    It is a European thing not a British thing though who knows who had it first.
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Woloshyn View Post
    I have a Delta contractors saw and I'm having a problem with getting the blade aligned correctly to the fence... What else am I missing?
    Let's start over. You do not align the blade to the fence. You align the fence to the blade. Semantics? No...reality.

    So you align the table miter slot to the blade, then you align the fence to the blade. (Or to the miter slot if you got that right to begin with).

    If you think you align the blade to the fence...pause...take a breath...and reconsider.

    Since you are apparently only experiencing this issue at the end of your rip cut it is most likely a tenique issue.

    You will continue to chase your tail unless you decide to make some tests that can lead you to understand the reason for the problem.

    You need to quantify the issue.

    I have a delta unifence and can set it so the front end of the fence, when ripping, is at the front edge of the blade, or wherever else I might want to position the fence. But it really does not seem to matter with a well tuned saw and a riving knife. My fence extends beyond the blade for the most part. Without issues.

    So is your issue technique or something else. Measure and evaluate...

    You stated your fence is not bent. So how can a straight fence and good blade only cause an issue at the end of the cut?

    Technique? Probably...
    Too much to do...Not enough time...life is too short!

  5. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Eric Schmid View Post
    If you are confident in your alignment measurements, blade and cutting technique, something may be causing your blade to deflect in the cut. When the board is at the end of the cut the tension releases, returning the blade back to 90.

    Deflection could be caused by a bad arbor bearing or warped flanges, tough wood, thin kerf blade, dull blade, etc.

    What happens if you cut down the middle of a larger piece? Do you have a full kerf blade to try?

    I keep my fences kicked out a little on the outfeed side. Cuts turn out just fine and no backside blade nicks.
    This post most explains what I'm dealing with. The blade deflects and returns back to 90 after the cut but leave blade nicks on the bottom edge.

    I'm not certain that it's my technique, I've been using this saw for years and never ran into this issue until recently. And I've actually been using pine to test with (since I don't want to waste my good wood).

    Perhaps it could be a bad bearing in the arbor, although there doesn't appear to be.

  6. #21
    Check to see that the front rail of the fence setup is straight. This is the rail that the fence clamps to. The reason I mention this is that you mentioned "contractor" saw. I started with my Delta contractor saw many years ago and began the process of upgrading it by bit by bit when I discovered that my cuts weren't what they should have been. Ultimately, it turned out that the front rail of the fence, which was a tube, deformed when bolted tightly to the cast iron. Literally, I had a bowed front rail. The fence's alignment with the saw blade varied with the width of the cut I was attempting to rip. The bowing was caused by the mounting bushings. I should have been more care to check, and adjust, the thickness of the bushings, but who would have thought that would happen?

  7. #22
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    I would try cutting 1/32 to 1/16" over size and ripping to final width.

  8. #23
    Had the chance this past week to tear down my saw and check out the bearings. They are smooth and tight, so I didn't pull them off the shaft. I cleaned and grease the trunnion assembly and reassembled the saw. Still having the same issue. Something I did find is that the blade cuts great using the miter gauge, it's when I use the fence it back-cuts and deflects. This test was done using a full kerf blade, with my blade aligned to the miter slot and then my fence aligned to that same miter slot.

  9. #24
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    Bein' old school, & runnin' a high chance of rufflin' feathers of them fellers w/dial indicators, & all that, I'm goin' to throw in my two pennies worth & see if I pull back a bloody stub.
    Let's start again. You're tellin' us your saw is chewin' wood at the end of the cut. You've checked arbor bearings, blades, miter slot run out, etc.
    Ok. The one thing you didn't mention was whether or not you put a square to your fence once you've set it. Is it square with the saw table? Have you laid a level across the top of your fence? down the side of it? It's possible there may be a slight bow in your fence? What about layin' a square down your miter slots?
    Are you usin' a thin kerf blade? Or a rip blade? If you're usin' a thin kerf, you may need to make adjustments to your blade. Are you over tightening the blade?
    How are you standing at the saw & feeding material into the blade? Behind the saw? Beside it? I've found, as short legged as I am, I get better results & straighter, smoother cuts by standing to the back of the saw, just off to the left side. That way I'm out of the line of fire, & can keep constant pressure downward & toward the fence. You may have to make some adjustments in your technique. And I agree with checking the fence rails. make sure they are straight & square. A suggestion, try a sacrificial fence(1/4" plywood)against your present fence. Joint & plane both faces & edges of your test piece. Snap a chalk line along the cut side. Set your fence & see what the result is. If you get a full, straight cut with the sacrificial fence, you've got your answer. Square it w/a square before you make the cut. Then you'll know.
    Sawdust703

  10. #25
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    I think it's the fence too.All saws have fences that are not flat and flex.Have you pushed on the end of the fence too see if it moves.
    Maybe I should not try to help I can barely figure out my saws quarks.
    Aj

  11. #26
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    one thing to keep in mind, you're dealin' with a contractor saw. So, with that said, the fences on most of them aren't top quality, nor designed for perfection. You can make improvements to it to make it stronger, & more accurate, but they do have their limitations. But the more Ive read your post, & reread the other posts, I still think it's your fence.
    Sawdust703

  12. #27
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    I looked at your video again and noticed that your blade is pretty low when you are making rip cuts. As a general rule, the gullets should be above the surface of the wood when you are making the cut. In addition, the higher the blade when making rip cuts, the more downward pressure there is on the wood so there is less chance of the wood climbing up on the blade and creating a dangerous situation. It bothers me that the off cut came back toward you at the end of the cut. It shouldn't do that if your saw is properly aligned.
    Lee Schierer
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  13. #28
    I've seen warped fences........

  14. #29
    PROBLEM SOLVED. Thought I would post an update that my problem appears to have been fixed after I took off the stock worn out belt and put on a new link belt. Wow, the saw runs so much smoother, quieter, and hardly any vibration. Maybe that was causing the blade to wobble? The belt was pretty worn out, I just didn't notice it getting progressively worse over time. Also, as someone mentioned here, technique may have been a factor. I switched to these MDF zero clearance inserts and I might have been putting too much downward pressure on the workpeice through the cut, and causing the insert to bend. Thanks to everyone for the help - glad it's fixed for now.

  15. #30
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    I'm glad you got it fixed. You can add a stiffener rib on the bottom side of your zero clearance insert that clears the blade and adds the required stiffness.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

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