Thanks, Kev- my apologies for typing 900 instead of 700!
I've photographed the lens/nozzle, but it's still on the phone.
You put a piece of 3mm acrylic on top of the substrate being cut, and lower the nozzle tube down to rest on it, and tighten it, then remove your 3mm gauge.
The software is really obnoxoius - but as you say-treat it as only a driver. Yes I work out of Corel Draw. Export as dxf, and import into this awful program.
The learning curve with the beast is peculiar but OK. It operates from wherever you stop it or move it to as a new home/origin, without having to be 'set' as such. The 'test' or 'rectangle' option is great. (The ULS didn't have that)
The power and speed settings don't want to stay attached to any outline colour, but seem to reset themselves.
Cutting though 2mm acrylic you can see the pulse perforations at certain faster speeds.
It does a lovely job of cutting 10mm acrylic in one pass- albeit slowly, but I'm running at 50-60% power, and 2% speed, 10% acceleration, 5mm overlap.
It wasn't bad looking, two passes at twice the speed.
And it made a tidy job of cutting 20mm acrylic, but that might be pushing the freindship a little- easier with the router.
Thanks for everyone's assistance. I've ordered a 5200 chiller, and will delve into the Ruida controller next month.
Best wishes,
Ian
ULS M-300, 55w made 2002 with rotary. Goldenlaser 130 watt, 1300x700 made 2011.
Flat bed 2500x1300 150/90watt 2 tube laser, 2018 model.
Esab router, 1989, 4.5 x 2.0 m, conv. to Tekcel, and modded a 2nd time.
HP L260-60". Roland PNC-1410. Mimaki GC-130 SU.
Screenprinting carousel 6x4 and 7x4 ft 1-arm bandit vac table.
Corel Draw X3, Illy, Indesign & Photoshop CS2 & CS5, Enroute 4
Pencil, paper, paintbrush, airbrush & dagger-liners & assorted other stuff.