Looking for non-ferrous tension curtain rods.

[Bill McNiel]

Try checking out shower curtain rods. Mine have not rusted in 7 years of use.

[Bob Vavricka]

I agree with the shower curtain (spring tension type) approach. You may need to have the rod pocket at the top of the panel made larger to accommodate the larger size rod, but that would be a lot easier than most of the other ideas I've seen.

[Keith Westfall]

Wooden dowels, with a wooden hangar (thing U shaped) to hang them on at the top, and upside down hangars (think upside down U's)to hook them in on the bottom. If the curtains are the 'right' length, you could have sufficient tension to hold things in place.

[Bill Jobe]

Think Magnets.
They make them for everything.
It wouldn't let me post just "magnets". Not enough letters.

[Allan Dozier]

I had some tent poles many years ago that were two aluminum tubes. The smaller one that slid into the larger had an eccentric lobe attached to the end so you extended it and then rotated it to lock it. Don't know if they still make them but you could check outdoor or camping sources.

Second suggestion: instead of depending on compression of the tubes to hold them in place, maybe just use a straight piece of aluminum and use an attachment of several sorts attached to the window casing to hold the ends in place. You could used a springy U shaped holder, or like they use for closet rods or shower rods use a round socket on one end and a U shaped one on the other. If it tended to lift out from the wind then use a little screw or pin to close over the U.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

I love the ideas. It is fun to solve problems like this. I think we all share that. The rods need to be around 1/2" to fit the pockets, and I do not want them bigger because I don't like the look. The rods have to be at the very bottom and top. These are mosquito panels. There is 1" of overhanging fabric at the top and bottom to ensure any gap is closed. They also fit flush to the sides. This leaves little room for fittings, which is why I like the compression fit. My other option is make a "u" shape to hold them in. I could also drill an indentation into the window moulding but would rather not. Magnets won't hold well enough.

[Bill Jobe]

I love the ideas. It is fun to solve problems like this. I think we all share that. The rods need to be around 1/2" to fit the pockets, and I do not want them bigger because I don't like the look. The rods have to be at the very bottom and top. These are mosquito panels. There is 1" of overhanging fabric at the top and bottom to ensure any gap is closed. They also fit flush to the sides. This leaves little room for fittings, which is why I like the compression fit. My other option is make a "u" shape to hold them in. I could also drill an indentation into the window moulding but would rather not. Magnets won't hold well enough.

They make window and door screens that are to keep out mosquito. They can be cut to any size and the magnets keep them closed but they easily open simply by walking through them, or in your case with windows, your hands to open and close the shutters.

[lowell holmes]

At $12/ft. your talking less than $100. That sounds reasonable to me.

[Bill Jobe]

Have you considered bamboo?;

[Karl Andersson]

Malcolm,
couldn't you just sand and epoxy/ glasscoat the ones you have? Or you could use fiberglass rod if you could make screw expanders on one end
Karl

[Malcolm Schweizer]

At $12/ft. your talking less than $100. That sounds reasonable to me.

$100 per window, times 16 of them. That's pricey.

They make window and door screens that are to keep out mosquito. They can be cut to any size and the magnets keep them closed but they easily open simply by walking through them, or in your case with windows, your hands to open and close the shutters.

Yes, we use those for the kitchen and garden and we love them for entry and exit doors but for the other windows we want something more traditional. (Historic house). Also they still require a curtain rod, so we are back to square 1.

IMG_1488.jpg

Have you considered bamboo?;

Not against it, but it might bend. Worth a try.

Malcolm,
couldn't you just sand and epoxy/ glasscoat the ones you have? Or you could use fiberglass rod if you could make screw expanders on one end
Karl

Way too hard to not glue it together trying to epoxy coat it.

[Bill McNiel]

Ok Malcolm, how about 2 non-ferrous rods (say 3/8" diameter) with threaded ends, end caps and a matching female coupler (OD=1/2") in the middle. This would allow you to adjust the length as needed.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Ok Malcolm, how about 2 non-ferrous rods (say 3/8" diameter) with threaded ends, end caps and a matching female coupler (OD=1/2") in the middle. This would allow you to adjust the length as needed.

That's kind of what I'm thinking, but so far the cost is going to be quite high for that. So far copper pipe with some sort of mounting bracket (which I have yet to devise) is looking pretty good as far as cost and function. I have 16 windows (14 and two doors) to do this for, and each one would need a top and bottom rod, so 32 rods. I really need to keep this cost-effective, hence I was hoping for an off-the-shelf solution. After giving it thought, I'm game for spending a bit more and making something that will outlast the off-the-shelf solution, but only within reason. Daddy has to pay bills, put on a new roof, buy a new stove... and I thought boat ownership was costly!!!

An additional concern- stainless steel is a lie. There is no "stainless" steel. It all rusts- just the stuff with more nickel rusts much, much more slowly. Stainless steel needs oxygen to maintain its rust-proof barrier. Wherever stainless steel mounts tightly is where it will rust. That's why stainless hardware on a boat always has rust streaks coming from the back of it. (you may know this- I am stating it for the masses) I'm liking the painted copper idea. It would most definitely have to be painted or otherwise covered or coated, as it would turn the white cloth black and/or green. Just rub a white cloth on some raw copper and you will see.

Very glad I posted this. Lots of good ideas.

[Bill Jobe]

Well then you're left with no other choice....you're going to have to use Osage Orange.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

This turned out to be easier than I expected. (Rare for me.) I took 1/2" copper pipe and hammered a 5/16" ID 1/2" OD nut in each end and used a 5/16"x2" bolt to tension them in. I had planned to braze the nut in place but it easily hammered in and cut its own hex path and is very tight. 1/3 the price of buying cheap rods at the store, more durable, and rust proof.