94 cabinet door rails to tenon ~ both ends!

[Martin Wasner]

I think Aigner Contermax (https://www.werkzeuge-fuchs.de/en/mi...timber-section) is probably the best jig for coping, easier and faster than any other coping jigs in the market. For narrow stock, you could do multiple pieces in one pass. Check the following video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=urmz_cpHsH0&t=455s

A sled from Reliable is $900, and I'd take that over the Aigner any day. Pneumatic clamp, and it pumps air through through the base so it's riding on air. We run them in the mitre slots and you'd really have to be trying to get hurt by the cutter. (Though I have had two guys think it was a good idea to clamp their fingers down, then try and pull their finger out before releasing the clamp) Some people don't listen when you tell them it'll be painful.

I agree with Mark though, anything you can take the operator out of the equation, you're better off. PMK has a coper/tenoner that I'm hoping we can acquire in the next year or so. The operator just needs to load and unload the parts, the rest is automated, runs two rails at a time, and it doesn't need a backer to prevent tear out.

[Sam Murdoch]

You guys are all out of my league equipment wise . Fun to have those great tools though isn't it.
I'm learning to improvise, after a massive downscale, and still produce professional results.

This old dog ain't sitting on the couch .

[Mel Fulks]

We have confidence in you ,Sam! All the sugestions will work. I do think a good starting point is knowing the cutters are made to work as I described; we are living in a time where the equipment mfgs are told that their liability is less by saying less. That tip was given to me by an older worker. I have not seen it in print any place but here. When a shim is required under the sticking cutters a coke can is about right. I've seen guys put both sets on shaper at one time and then adjust heights back and forth a number of times on one job!

[Larry Edgerton]

Nice improvised setup Sam. Glad the feeder is getting a new lease on life. It served me well, may it make your life a little easier.

One thing I do at times when all my rails have to be consecutive is use wide boards, cut to length, cope in the wide width, do the triangle marking, rip and then stick to an outboard fence. Less chance of screwing up in the middle of a matched set. I like your idea and may try it just for fun. I have a fixture but can only do one at a time.

Have a great day tomorrow Sir, Larry

[Mike Delyster]

I think Aigner Contermax (https://www.werkzeuge-fuchs.de/en/mi...timber-section) is probably the best jig for coping, easier and faster than any other coping jigs in the market. For narrow stock, you could do multiple pieces in one pass. Check the following video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=urmz_cpHsH0&t=455s

With the Aigner jig it's easy to 89-1/2 degrees or 91 degrees or any other oddball angle. To cut perfect 90 degree cuts everytime requires modifications to the jig. I was frustrated with that jig and didn't use it until Joe showed me how he modified his.
Thanks Joe.

[peter gagliardi]

Mike, I don't follow what you are saying?? I have that jig, and haven't experienced any issues yet?

[Mike Delyster]

Mike, I don't follow what you are saying?? I have that jig, and haven't experienced any issues yet?

Hello Peter,

I found using the Aigner jig that the sliding block that you attach your backer board to is not big enough to hold it square consistently. Every time you moved it for a different width of stock you needed to fuss around to get it set back to exactly 90 degrees. It was very easy to move the block a degree or two out of square when tightening it down.


Joe posted his fix over on CWW and I modified mine the same way. I ended up drilling a series of countersunk holes on one side of the jig to attach the backer to. You lose the adjustability part, but as long as you hold everything tight to the fence when you screw the backer on it will be square.
Here are a couple of pictures of my modifications.

[peter gagliardi]

I see, this is all I have used, and it has worked so far.
Not a bad idea though.
image.jpg
Around 4" of bearing give or take with the thicker wood piece on the vertical portion. I did however glue a strip of sandpaper to the clamp pad which made a world of difference.
image.jpg

[Mike Delyster]

I like your sandpaper addition and I will give that a try.

I still have the parts to put it back to original, but I don't know if I will bother messing around with it again. It's pretty easy to screw the backer on with a cordless drill from above and you can still move it fairly quick when changing stock size.

[John Gulick]

tenoner, makes life easy.

+1, we have several and leave them dedicated

[Joe Calhoon]

I like the Aigner device for just a few doors but prefer sliding table shaper for quantities. We use the Aigner a lot for cutting returns on mouldings. It's easy because you don't have to change fence or shaft height. We do a lot of square edge doors and find just a simple sled using the bridge on the fence a quick setup. This would not work if you are removing the whole edge. This is parts for one simple doweled divided light French door. Large quantities I would be using the sliding table.

We have a CNC tenoner and a manual one in the past. They are good for door and window work but not ideal for coped cabinet doors.



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[Kevin Jenness]

Joe, is that an adjustable knuckle on the outfeed end of the fence in the third photo?

[James Zhu]

Joe, is that an adjustable knuckle on the outfeed end of the fence in the third photo?

https://www.werkzeuge-fuchs.de/en/mi...ble-workpieces

[Brad Shipton]

Kevin, you can get Aigner from the Martin dealers. The Integral fence and the complete catalog is at: http://www.martin-usa.com/products/integral-fence/

[jack duren]

Most shops I've worked for when it came to cabinetry used Weaver systems. The manual coping was as fast to run as it was to load....

Home made version ....
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