Gluing temporary blocks onto piece to help with glue up

[Curt Harms]

I learned about hot melt glue & DNA doing some solid surface work. I haven't tried it on wood yet. I'm sceptical that hot melt glue would be as strong as a paper joint but I haven't compared them.

[Mike Cutler]

I learned about hot melt glue & DNA doing some solid surface work. I haven't tried it on wood yet. I'm sceptical that hot melt glue would be as strong as a paper joint but I haven't compared them.

Curt
It only needs to be strong enough to withstand the clamping pressure, and not slip out of position. The paper method is strong, and let's face it, cheap, fast, and readily available. I've also glued 220 grit sandpaper to blocks for clamp blocks, and they work surprisingly well.

Each project presents it own unique set of problem. It's nice to have an array of methods to overcome them.

[Al Launier]

Very interesting project Andrew & looks to be very well made indeed!

If I could offer an "amateur's" opinion (compared to those above) I would recommend the following based on my limited experience and, as some are duplications of what has already been stated above, it's only because I've learned these techniques from this and other WW forums and I include them only to reinforce what those above have said:

1. Glue up smaller sections at a time that don't necessarily require an assembly to ensure a proper final fit. This has proven itself to me many times. Taking on too much at a time can be self-defeating.
2. Use temporary blocks that are cut-offs from angular cuts made for the parts of the finished piece to provide exactly the same angle for gluing; otherwise cut blocks to the angles needed for a good clamp-up.
3. Double-back tape has been a strong second pair of hands to hold things together are is easily removed.
4. Strap clamps are very handy for awkward glue-ups. Strap clamps also include large strips of rubber (ex. those used by nurses for tourniquets when drawing blood), bungee cords, etc.
5. Although I don't prefer Hot Melt glue for permanent gluing, it is adequate for temporary clamping and is easily removed afterward.

Good luck with your glue-up, that's a beautiful table you made!

[Chris Fournier]

There is no need to glue blocks on at all. Cut some angled blocks to suit your job and clamps then glue some 240 or so sandpaper to the face of your blocks to give a bit of extra friction where they contact the job. Alternatively use end grain blocks. They will grip just as well. Don't underestimate the friction grip of timber. Also it has always been a rule in my shops to never get glue or pencil makes on any seen face ever, if at all possible.Cheers

This right here! And don't forget about good old tape.

[Jerry Olexa]

I've used hide glue in cases like this..Easily removed later after dry.