Knob and tote finish

[Nathan Johnson]

I have several Stanley planes in various states of rehabilitation, but I'm a bit frustrated with getting the finish right on the knobs and totes. I find now that I prefer the lower gloss, less artificial feel of something like an oil finish, however I don't like how my Danish oil darkened the rosewood and seemed to hide the grain. I've also tried spray shellac (rattle can) and well, fool me once....

Is there an oil finish available that's almost completely clear so as to preserve the color and grain in the wood? BLO seems to have an orange-y tint to it, but maybe that's my best bet?

What kind of finish does Lee Valley use on their plane totes and knobs? Not sure I'm good enough to reproduce similar results, but I like the look and feel of those as an alternative, assuming they're not an oil finish.

I have much to learn. Typically have always just used stain and brush on poly for everything.

[Jim Koepke]

My preferred treatment of an old tote is to leave the wood unfinished and apply a coat of Howard Feed-N-Wax. It is an oil and wax product that does good for the wood and leaves it looking good.

jtk

[Bill McNiel]

I use Waterlox OSF and then Renaissance Wax, gives a beautiful, silky smooth look and feel that suits me.

[Derek Cohen]

Try Ubeaut Shellawax. Rub it on and then buff it off with a cloth wheel on the drill press. The heat sets if off. I do two coats, all completed in about 5 minutes. This leaves a clear, smooth finish that is very durable.

Shellawax was formulated for turners. It sets with the heat from friction. This is the ideal way to use it (while a piece is spinning). Nevertheless, it sets quickly and hard with a spinning cloth wheel.

This is an Aussie product, available through Lee Valley.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Kurt Cady]

LV uses lacquer.

I've stripped the lacquer and used Tru-Oil on several tools. just a dab or two. Gives me something between the plastic feel of the lacquer and the natural wood feel, closer to the wood feel

[lowell holmes]

I would try Johnson's wax. It makes a nice finish. It is reversible if you don't like it.

[Nathan Johnson]

Thank you for the suggestions. Much appreciated.

[Mike Baker 2]

I am in the same boat, sort of.
I have a Disston handle I stripped the old finish from, and wondering what to use on it. Since it is bare wood, I'm trying to decide what to use.
I also have another Disston that I will most likely not strip, but just use Feed & Wax on it as is.
I would like a darker finish on the one I stripped. Might apply a stain, let dry several days, and then use Feed & Wax on it as well.
My other alternative is Danish Oil.

[steven c newman]

I use a wipe-on, wipe-off of BLO/Stainon bare, NON Rosewood handles.

Rosewood.....everything I have tried on it, for handles, the wood turns black. Not nice when the front knob on a Stanley No.6c turns the same colour as the Japanning.

[Nathan Johnson]

I think I'll try the Howard's first as it's likely the cheapest/easiest option to start with.

[Jim Koepke]

I think I'll try the Howard's first as it's likely the cheapest/easiest option to start with.

I have a rag pretty much saturated with Howard Feed-n-Wax. It is often used to wipe down my planes after use.

jtk

[Allen Jordan]

I use about 2 coats of amber shellac (2# cut, wiped on with a rag), followed by renaissance wax. The wax coat is important for having the tote/knob feel right in your hands.

[Mike Brady]

Rosewood that was used in Stanley plane handles does not need additional oil added as a finish. It only darkens the wood and may not adhere well. The original finish is a form of shellac that adds luster without darkening the rosewood. When I finish rosewood handles I use BullsEye spray shellac as a base coat, and about 15 minutes later spray Watco satin luster lacquer from a spray can; 2-3 light coats. These finishes will be dry to the touch in less than an hour, for both; and are completely compatible.

[Nathan Johnson]

Those look very nice, Mike. I may revisit the spray shellac in the future. Spray finish is not a skill I have, so maybe I'll do some practicing and come back to it.
Thanks for the photo - something to strive for.

[Mike Brady]

Oil on rosewood is going to darken and stay that way. Rosewood is quite oily already, so you should instead seal bare rosewood with shellac and go with that as your finish ; or you can apply satin lacquer over the shellac for durability and a soft sheen.
Here are some photos of that combination on some Stanley handles:

The shellac and lacquer are both from spray cans and dry in less than an hour (Zinnser spray shellac and Watco spray satin lacquer).