Miter station fence flip stop help

[scott vroom]

I'm building a miter saw station and plan to install T-track and flip stop on the fence. I've read here and elsewhere that the Kreg flip stop has an unacceptable amount of slop. I'm looking for a high quality stop, accurate and tight. I see that Woodpeckers sells a "Super Track Flip Stop" but know nothing of it's quality. I'm not sure what else is out there, and in any case I figured I'd get the lowdown from my fellow 'Creekers

[jack duren]

The shorter the stop the less travel. A good stop can be expensive. a few hundred. Biesemeyer sold good ones but don't know if they still sell them....
indexioi.jpgB78-722A-Biesemeyer-T-Square-Gang-Stop-For-Radial-Arm-Saws-md.jpg

[Bruce Wrenn]

Try to get hold of a copy of Norm's miter saw station from New Yankee Work shop. He uses a "pinch system," similar to the Biese. As for flip stops, the further apart the pivots are, the less play.

[Mike Heidrick]

I own the kreg and it works for me. Id love to check out the shops of folks whos kreg flip stop is unacceptable. They must be amazing.

[John A langley]

I also have the Kreg and have not had any trouble with them

[Martin Wasner]

The shorter the stop the less travel. A good stop can be expensive. a few hundred. Biesemeyer sold good ones but don't know if they still sell them....
indexioi.jpgB78-722A-Biesemeyer-T-Square-Gang-Stop-For-Radial-Arm-Saws-md.jpg

They don't. I just had fences welded up and I'm waiting on the copies of the Biesemeyer stops to be finished. Bang for the buck, this style is pretty hard to beat.


J A Dawley and the Maya stops look really good, but they aren't cheap

[Ole Anderson]

I have the Kreg and really like it.

[Nick Decker]

I have a couple of the WP Flip Stops on my WP router fence. Typical high quality WP stuff, at their usual eye opening price, but they work well with that fence/table. No muss, no fuss, no slop.

[glenn bradley]

I own the kreg and it works for me. Id love to check out the shops of folks whos kreg flip stop is unacceptable. They must be amazing.

I think it may be more a matter of how the saw is used. The Kreg is not going to stand being slammed into with two-by stock all day long. Stops like the Beis were built for professional use where the "help" are not necessarily careful or the pace required makes delicate work a non-starter. There is also raw mass to consider. You don't have to be reckless to do some damage with an 80 pound piece of stock.

A hefty stop requires something more substantial than aluminum t-track to clamp onto as well. Some tube steel can work well. Notice the attachment method of the Beis stops pictured earlier in this thread.

The accessory has to fit the need. I use the little Rockler stops and they do fine for me. They are quite tight but, by their very nature they are not up to dealing with large bulk stock. I use them for precision when making parts for the things I do. They may not be appropriate for a cabinet shop cranking out kitchens.

[scott vroom]

Thanks for the replies. The saw will be used primarily for moderate volume cabinet work and occasional 2x general construction work. Sounds like the t-track stops such as Kreg and Woodpecker are accurate as long as you don't ram the stock into them. With some discipline I don't see that as a problem.

I was visiting a production cabinet shop a few years back and the owner gave me a quick demo of their new TigerStop system. Impressive......and way too costly for my situation.

[scott vroom]

Came across this while searching. A bit spendy but looks well engineered. http://www.mayaposi-stop.com/universalguide.asp

[Ben Rivel]

The Kreg flip stop has slop, the Kreg production stop is very solid but doesnt flip up. You just unscrew it a bit and it comes off.

[Martin Wasner]

I was visiting a production cabinet shop a few years back and the owner gave me a quick demo of their new TigerStop system. Impressive......and way too costly for my situation.

They've got one called Sawgear or something. Meant to be portable for on-site work. They cost as much now as a 10' Tigerstop did ten years ago. For a cut off station, a Tigerstop can't be beat until you get into defectors and automatic push through saws.

Somewhere I've got a cad drawing of the Biesemeyer clone fences I had made. It was about $300 a set roughly for a 4' and 8'. The stops are super simple too, any fab shop could make it happen.

[Roger Feeley]

years ago, I made my own stop using a 1/2"-20 all-thread. The rod is about 28" long and the stop is made of wood with nylon bushings. As a previous poster pointed out, the farther apart the pivots are, the less play. My bushings are about 3" apart and pretty tight so there is almost zero play. to adjust, I put on a Morton Quill Stop. It's made for the quill on a Bridgeport mill work works great. Push a button for fast traverse. Turn it for fine adjustment to sneak up on your exact length. One revolution is .050" so it's plenty accurate.

28" doesn't sound like a lot but I put the threaded rod a few feet to the left. I have a spacer that I use for smaller pieces. Neodynium magnets hold the spacer to the stop. The magnets also come in handy when I'm moving the stop to the left with a tape measure. The end of the tap sticks to the magnet and drags the tape with it.

The whole thing is about 10 years old and is still tight.

[Ben Rivel]

From my research I found the Incra version to be the best bang for the buck and accuracy. LINK But it doesnt flip either.