Walnut Secretary Build Part 4 – Mouldings, Hidden Drawers and Egg and Dart Carving

[Mike Allen1010]

Somehow I can’t get the pictures to rotate into the correct orientation on Photobucket, but you’ll get the idea.

Here’s the profile of the cornice molding drawn on the end grain. I use a shop made rabbit plane to create the initial rabbit farthest from the reference edge.







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Next I use a plow plane to create the rabbit that defines the middle of the bottom concave curve.






Using the # 6 and a # 12 hollow and round and the finished molding. Probably more time spent sharpening then planing.

[Mike Allen1010]

I could’ve gotten the entire molding profile out of a single 6/4 piece of stock but screwed up the layout so had to make the top portion separately and glue the 2 pieces together:













Here’s the finished molding installed under the top of the bookcase.







Someone asked for a couple more pictures of laying out and chopping the recesses to hold the mutins so here’s a couple pictures. I tried to work out the recesses with geometry, but had more luck simply laying the mutins on top of the door and cutting the recesses to match:

[Mike Allen1010]

I made 3 hidden drawers that fit on the underside of the bookcase top hidden behind the cornice molding. White oak, cherry and lace wood.

[Mike Allen1010]

I used a complex molding plane to create an OG molding transitioning the bookshelf to tabletop. IMHO, this kind of complete molding plane is a great way to get started with shooting your own molding. A little easier than hollows and rounds.





Used a beading tool to scrape a couple beads on the top edge of the molding – probably too much, but it’s a superfund tool to use. Somehow the end grain of the molding didn’t look right and a full width, mitered molding for the front also look out of place so I added ¼ inch thick facer to cover the end grain.









I decided to try and “Egg and Dart” carved molding for the top of the bookcase in hopes of “lightning” the visual weight of the top. “Carving Architectural Detail in Wood” by Frederick Wilber is a great reference with lots of different molding designs.

I spent way too much time trying to photocopy/resize a picture to use as a template and ended up just laying out the broad dimensions of the components with a circle template and ruler and freehand drawing in the curves for the “basket” that surrounds the “egg”.





Outlined with #’s 6 and 7 gouges and used a bench chisel to remove the chip.









Shaping the sloping top of the “dart” with a ¼” flat chisel.





Using a small, # 3 gouge to create the “egg”. Sorry for the blurry picture.

[Mike Allen1010]

I started on the side so my mistakes would be less visible not realizing carving in the end grain is a lot harder than carving the long grain, front edge.













In total it took me about 15 hours to carved the molding. I definitely gotten faster towards the end - incising/carving the gross features went fairly quickly, but I spend an inordinate amount of time with a riffler and Ex-acto knife trying to clean up margins and remaining fragments. I’m sure if I were better Carver that last step wouldn’t be necessary.
I think it turned out okay.


Here’s a couple pictures with the doors sitting in the case










I’m glad the tedious carving is behind me and next will be making drawers for the bottom row of the pigeonhole unit. These will have rounded faces to match the profile of the vertical dividers.

Should I go with small brass knobs for the doors/drawers or try and turn them out of Holly to match the stringing? I very much appreciate recommendations!

All the best, Mike

[Archie England]

WOW!!!!! Outstanding!!!! That's inspiring.

[Jim Koepke]

Very nice indeed Mike.

One of my favorites for small knobs is to turn an acorn:

Rosewood Acorn.jpg

This one, made of rosewood, is on one of our kitchen cabinets. They can be made of just about any wood that will turn on a lathe.

jtk

[John Kananis]

I love it - really looking good and thanks for documenting so far.

[Bill McNiel]

Mike- that is truly inspiring work. Many thanks for sharing.

[Leo Graywacz]

What was the difference in carving the end grain compared to the edge grain. Harder, easier?

Looks like it came out great. Not sure if I could do it in 15 hours.

[Patrick McCarthy]

Absolutely awesome, sir!

[Christopher Charles]

Looking really fantastic Mike. The carving does lighten the top and to me it looks like it came out great.

On the knobs, I don't think I've ever seen any turned in holly. Curious to see what you decide!

[Jim Koepke]

I can see the drawers in place, what is holding them against the top?

jtk

[Chet R Parks]

Mike,
I'd like to know the difference of end vs edge grain carving also. As far as the build goes a LOT of little details going on there with the planning, layout, cutting, fitting, carving etc. Wow great job and control of work flow.
Chet

[Derek Cohen]

Mike, your work is simply outstanding. I'm just blown away. The detail is exhausting to look at. How long did it actually take you to do?! I'd like a bit more description about the carving. How stable/strong is it - it looks to include a lot of fragile cross grain.

Regards from Perth

Derek