Turning "damp" Elm

[Bill Berklich]

First I am not an expert turner - more of a "tried it a couple times" novice. Looking for some insights on American Elm. A buddy gave me 6-7 chunks of partially dry Elm. Square up a billet and decided to turn a file handle. I tried to use a set of carbide tools on it with horrible results. Tear outs, fuzz and all manner of ugliness. I went back to a roughing gouge and skew with ok results but sill not like turning maple. The Skew gave some beautiful curls which was a first for but the surface was still ragged fuzzy.

Question: Carbide and wet/damp wood no? yes? or is just a function of the stringy Elm?

[Brice Rogers]

Having razor sharp tools really helps. For a spindle/handle, the skew can produce nice results if you are using it in a shear-slicing mode. In fact, the finish using that tool should be good enough that you should be able to finish sand at 220 or 320 or higher.

Most carbide tools are used in a scraping presentation. If they are brand new they may work okay but you are still scraping. But they dull and few people can sharpen them as good as new. So they end up scraping with a semi-dull tool. When you finished up with the skew, were you scraping or shear-slicing? Learning to do shear cuts on a spindle/handle is great practice.

[John K Jordan]

First I am not an expert turner - more of a "tried it a couple times" novice. Looking for some insights on American Elm. A buddy gave me 6-7 chunks of partially dry Elm. Square up a billet and decided to turn a file handle. I tried to use a set of carbide tools on it with horrible results. Tear outs, fuzz and all manner of ugliness. I went back to a roughing gouge and skew with ok results but sill not like turning maple. The Skew gave some beautiful curls which was a first for but the surface was still ragged fuzzy.

Question: Carbide and wet/damp wood no? yes? or is just a function of the stringy Elm?

Bill,

My opinion: just say "no" to carbide tools, at least those with standard cutters. (A notable exception are the Hunter tools - amazing difference). I gave away all my carbide tools (except for the Hunters) and will not buy any more. Tearouts and fuzz are typical in my experience. I rarely use scraping tools on spindles.

As Brice mentioned, a razor sharp cutting tool is the way to go. I turn a lot of spindles and most are done with (very sharp) roughing gouges, skews, spindle gouges, and the Hunters (mostly the Hercules.) Even wet elm will be no problem, although dry is better in several ways. Fortunately, smaller sized turning blanks dry quickly so if you have extra set it up to dry for a few months.

If you are not adept with the skew, a sharp roughing gouge is the next best thing until you get to the finer detail.

In the long run, learning the skew is extremely valuable. Many turners are afraid of the skew simply because they have not been taught properly. If you happen to live close enough or find yourself driving through East TN one day, stop in for a skew lesson! I can guarantee you will be making useful planing cuts within 30 minutes. The lesson fee is you have to agree to take home a box of spindle turning wood - elm, cherry, ash, ERC, dogwood, maple, black locust, birch, holly, persimmon, walnut - I'll even through in a piece of Ebony.

JKJ

[Bill Berklich]

JHi John - not sure when but I'll take you up on that next time I drive to Atlanta to see my brother. I'd love to actually learn how to do that. Also, I'm going to get on sharpening my tools. ALL of which need it. Maybe I can take the carbide tools back(?)

BB

[John K Jordan]

JHi John - not sure when but I'll take you up on that next time I drive to Atlanta to see my brother. I'd love to actually learn how to do that. Also, I'm going to get on sharpening my tools. ALL of which need it. Maybe I can take the carbide tools back(?) BB

I donated all of mine for a benefit auction. The carbide tools may be useful when roughing green wood for bowls, although some people just use a scraper. I prefer a bowl gouge to both rough and finish.

Some of the carbide tools have certain advantages - they can be very inexpensive to make and they let someone who with no experience shape some wood. Clean cuts and surfaces that require little or no sanding are not usually among the advantages. Teaching fine tool control is also not one of the advantages.

Do you have a good way to sharpen? (The old truism, of course, is "if you can't sharpen, you can't turn"!) If not, a Wolverine setup with a Varigrind jig works well. Hand-held sharpening works well once you know how but the jigs make it a lot easier. When I first started turning I didn't know how to sharpen and didn't have the jigs or even good grinder. I turned until my tools got dull then paid to have them sharpened. I did this just twice before I bought good sharpening things!

When you come visit you can try out several methods - Tormek, Varigrind 1 and 2, platform, and freehand. And try out some of the Hunter carbide tools. Our farm is near Clinton TN just north of Knoxville.

JKJ

[Dave Fritz]

Grain/Texture: Grain is interlocked (making it very resistant to splitting). With a somewhat coarse, uneven texture. http://www.wood-database.com/american-elm/

I use a lot of it for firewood and it's a bugger to split. For that reason it would probably make a good tool handle. I tried to spault some and it went punky fast. I did however grown some oyster mushrooms on it.

It is a pretty wood when finished.

[Geoff Crimmins]

I've turned a couple of types of elm before and don't remember having any problems with it. Most of the turning was done with a bowl gouge. I don't own any carbide turning tools so I don't know how they compare.

[Bill Berklich]

I remember trying to split it when I was a kid. What a bear! Usually ended up with a hand axe to finish separating it

[Frank Drew]

A bear to split, equaled in that regard, in my experience, only by apple. Elm, like most woods, turns well when green so roughing out faceplate and bowl blanks is a big help.