Stanley miter box refurb.

[Michael J Evans]

A little while ago I posted a new miter box that I bought, I believe it's a model 358 but not sure. I've decided to strip it down and de-rust / paint it. Which leads me to a few questions.

1. How do I remove the round up rights from the main body? It appears as though there's a couple of metal pins with holes in the top that wedge the uprights in, do I just yank on those?

2. The metal slides and all the small metal parts that werent jappaned, appear to have been plated. During the de-rusting I lost some of that plating so I said screw it and removed all the plating on everything down to bare metal. I like the bare gray color of the metal and would like it to stay that way without constant waxing. Can you laquer / shellac bare metal?

3.once I get everything off of the main frame I want to de-rust and paint it. My normal procedure for de-rusting is soaking in vinegar and salt. The problem with that is I'd have to go buy a bigger tote and a ton of vinegar. The only other options I see are electrolysis (which I'm not set up for) or a brass cup brush and angle grinder. Any problems with the brass brush / angle grinder route? Main concern for the angle grinder route Is destroying the etched in degree markings.

4. Anything special to be aware of?

Your thoughts greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Michael.

[Phil Mueller]

Michael, can't help with most of your questions, but when I derusted my miter boxes, I purchased a piece of 8" round metal ducting, wrapped a bit of duct tape around it, and put in a plastic contractors bag. The miter box base when into the bag and I filled it with evaporust...vinegar and salt in your case. Still took a couple of gallons, but it was more "custom" sized than any bin I could find.

[Michael J Evans]

Thanks for the idea phil. I Decided To Go Ahead and Wire Wheel away, slow going but it gave me a good excuse to purchase a dremel type tool. Now if only I could figure out how to keep those little brass brushs lasting for more than two minutes?

[Michael J Evans]

I figured out my first question as well for anyone else who's wondering. The thing I thought was a pin that sits behind the uprights is actually threaded and has a tapered rod that wedges the uprights tight. I used a little Allen key that fit in the side holes and it came right out.

[steven c newman]

IMAG0001.jpg
IF you mean these three bolts..no, leave them be. This is where you adjust for any tilt in the set up.
Underside where this sits, there is a large knurled and slotted head of a bolt. Remove that, and the whole guide assembly comes off.
IMAG0005.jpg
Looks like this. The brass collars are depth stops. Spring is a "shock absorber" for when the saw drops towards the bed. The stop under the spring can be set so the saw does not cut into the bed of the box.
IMAG0006.jpg
Be careful taking these apart...way too many pins and springs to get lost.
IMAG0001.jpg
This bolt can be removed, cleaned up, and a THIN coat of oil wiped on before you re-attach the swingarm. Supposed to be a white grease in the joint,,,just attracts dust.
legs,feet.jpg
Make a note and a mark...there IS a left and a right leg. Note the length of the feet?
top.jpg
This is the front of the front guide assembly. Note the tab. The assemblies have either and "F" or an "R" to tell which is front or rear. The tab is to unlock the saw to allow it to drop onto the work. The rear tab has a square flat, when the saw hits the flat, it unlocks the back. Both tabs will be facing you. Top of the guides will have a latch plate for these to lock onto. Make sure those are correctly placed.
IMAG0001.jpg
Have fun.

[Michael J Evans]

Hi Steven,
I don't know why but responses are no longer coming up in my email. Sorry so long for the response.

Our miter boxes are different , I believe mine to be older than yours, they share similarities but , the locking mechanisms and the uprights are different. I'm not sure if mine is a 358 anymore. While scrubbing down the frame, I discovered a 478 stamped into the bottom. Opposite of the wood deck.
Will post some pics when I finally get done.

[Michael J Evans]

Have had this done for quite some time now. But working 14+ hours days hasn't left me much time to do much. I think it turned out pretty good, just hoping the paint job holds up. Was able to use pretty Much all the original screws that held the deck on except the two brass screws you see in the patent pick. A week or so after purchasing the bigger miter box I came across this baby Goodall-Pratt miter box. For $5 I just couldn't pass it up, and a 16" Disston saw came to.

completed miter box front.jpgcompleted miter box back.jpgcompleted miter box patent.jpgside view two completed miter.jpg

[Phil Mueller]

Very well done, Michael! After I rehabbed mine, there was some emotional stress putting the first cuts in the beautiful new deck...but I got over it. Enjoy.
Nice find on the Goddall-Pratt, by the way.

[Matthew Hutchinson477]

3.once I get everything off of the main frame I want to de-rust and paint it. My normal procedure for de-rusting is soaking in vinegar and salt. The problem with that is I'd have to go buy a bigger tote and a ton of vinegar. The only other options I see are electrolysis (which I'm not set up for) or a brass cup brush and angle grinder. Any problems with the brass brush / angle grinder route? Main concern for the angle grinder route Is destroying the etched in degree markings.

Sand the etched area with a hard, flat block that won't deform and dig into the corners of the etchings. Use a lighter grit like 320 or 400 and be gentle.

I just painted over the etched area on mine (its a Wards but similar to a Stanley) and then sanded off the paint so that the etchings would be remain filled.

[Walter Phelps]

Michael,
I've got the same miter box. I've had it for 40 years but I just got it out and started tuning it up. It seems to be a less common variant, though it shares certain features with the more common models.
Mine is missing the two posts that can be used to hold the work, and the tie rod on the top. but is otherwise in fine shape. On mine, the little spring loaded tab at the top of the front post faces the operator. I think a little clip (missing) went on the saw spine and when it hit the spring loaded tab, the saw was released.

Have had this done for quite some time now. But working 14+ hours days hasn't left me much time to do much. I think it turned out pretty good, just hoping the paint job holds up. Was able to use pretty Much all the original screws that held the deck on except the two brass screws you see in the patent pick. A week or so after purchasing the bigger miter box I came across this baby Goodall-Pratt miter box. For $5 I just couldn't pass it up, and a 16" Disston saw came to.

completed miter box front.jpgcompleted miter box back.jpgcompleted miter box patent.jpgside view two completed miter.jpg

[steven c newman]

The last box I rehabbed...had the 478 stamped.....more of a mold number....as there wasn't a #4 frame, or a 27" long saw. with 7" under the spine.


Early 358 did have that steel disc in the bed, as well as a few other models.....it is for the one stock holder, with it's bolt and keeper....so you can have a length stop....
Mitre Box Saw, casting number.JPG
This is on my Stanley 346 Mitre box
Mitre Box Saw, Length stop done.JPG
How to use that disc in the deck...
Mitre Box Saw, Rehab done 2.JPG
The way mine looks, when it isn't covered up...
Mitre Box Saw, big parts storage.JPG

These used a bolt down through the center...has a hole through it's head. End of the bolt is tapered. As the bolt is tightened, it spreads the base a bit. locking the upright in place..
Mitre Box Saw, base of the guides.JPG
Note the split.
Mitre Box Saw, locations.JPG
And the head of that bolt, just peeking around...note the hole. This mitre box has 4 patent dates...all from 1904...
Mitre Box Saw, Guide, insides.JPG
Saw guides did not have bearings, yet....
Mitre Box Saw, rehab done.JPG
The box behind it is a Stanley #358...