Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: Adding an Incra LS TS to a Sawstop

  1. #1

    Adding an Incra LS TS to a Sawstop

    I have a few questiosn directed at Sawstop PCS owners who have an Incra fence on their Professional Cabinet Saw.

    I have a Sawstop PCS configured with the 40" extension table and the mobility kit. I got the extension table initially to install a router. But I have since built a stand alone router table so that is no longer in the plans. I want to replace my Sawstop T Glide fence with an Incra LS TS.

    With this conversion, my ripping capacity is reduced. This should not be a concern since I use a tracksaw to breakdown sheet goods anyway.

    The Incra fence will only be used to the right of the blade. So I see no advantage in purchasing the longer rails that would span the entire 84" across the front of the saw. I did use the Sawstop rails as the handle for maneuvering the Sawstop on its castors.

    Question 1: Should I purchase the longer rails solely to facilitate moving it around the shop, or could I use the left cast iron table wing as a "handle" / gripping surface? I do very little moving of it.

    Question 2: If I purchase the 72" rails and mount them flush with the right end of the phenolic extension table, the rails will extend to the left side of the main saw table (at the interface line where the left cast iron wing attaches). The Incra system comes with three mounting clips per rail. This would permit two clips attached to the main cast iron table, and either 1 in the cast iron wing or 1 somehow attached further to the right in the phenolic extension table. I could purchase an additional set of clips to have one in the wing plus one in the extension. How did you attach your rails?

    Question 3: if you have the extension table, were you able to use your Sawstop legs, or did you purchase the Incra leg support set?

    Question 4: Lastly, I have an option to remove the extension table and just use the cast iron table and wings for support. If the blade is centered in that saw, I have 22" of cast iron on each side, plenty for ripping since the rails would cantilever out past the wings. What's your opinion on this option?

  2. #2
    I do not have a sawstop but I did very recently mount the Incra LS to my table saw (A Dewalt Contractor saw).

    I can give you some information it seems that you're asking about.

    In general, the farther apart mounting points are, the more stable the thing will be. You only need to use two pair of brackets on each rail and it's plenty strong and rigid.

    Because of the base I built for my saw, it's very heavy. Not as heavy as a 5 HP iron beast, but heavy enough. I did buy the additional support legs and they simply aren't needed. My understanding is that they're to help prevent the saw from tipping. At maximum rip and cutting 3/4" birch ply, my saw is stable. It's not even close to wanting to tip. If you put a slab table top through your saw you might need the supports.

    The only problem with my installation is that as I move the carriage on the rails it gets really hard to move the farther out I move it (away from the blade). I assume it's because of misalignment of the two rails but I can't find a problem anywhere. I've used winding sticks to ensure they're parallel the entire length and I've measured the distance between them and it's under 1/32" variation the entire length.

    I love the fence though. I had to take down my router table and add an extension to the table saw because adding the fence to the saw made it so big that something else had to leave the shop if I wanted to use the fence. My router table was the largest tool in my shop and since I could combine it with the saw it was the best option.

    On your last question, I wouldn't remove any extensions I didn't have to. I like all the support I can get around the saw.

    Hopefully someone else can give you specifics on setup with your saw.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul K. Johnson View Post
    The only problem with my installation is that as I move the carriage on the rails it gets really hard to move the farther out I move it (away from the blade). I assume it's because of misalignment of the two rails but I can't find a problem anywhere.
    You are probably binding because of the height of the attachment between the positioner and the fence. Try loosening the two bolts that attach the positioner to the fence and see if it moves without binding. There is a sweet spot attachment height that you have to find. If there is excessive movement when loose then your positioner lock is probably pointing down or up and needs to be adjusted flat to the table surface again. Hope this helps.
    -Brian

  4. #4
    Hi Brian,

    I don't want to hijack this thread with my issues. I'll give that a go again but I have played with it multiple times and nothing changed. I don't remember if I tried moving the carriage with the bolts loosened as far as they'll go just to rule it out.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    80
    While I am only a novice woodworker, I do have a similar setup to what you describe. I currently have the Incra TS-LS Joinery package mounted to my 3HP SawStop PCS system. I also have a Peachtree cast iron router table extension mounted to the left of the factory extension so that it will clear the motor door. I personally like the setup for the room I have, but wish my router table were separate. I meant to take a picture last night, but forgot. If you want, I can try and get one tonight to show you.
    Quote Originally Posted by H. Gregory Porter View Post
    Question 1: Should I purchase the longer rails solely to facilitate moving it around the shop, or could I use the left cast iron table wing as a "handle" / gripping surface? I do very little moving of it.
    If you move it very little, I would not purchase the rails just to move it. I find my saw is easy to move (except the Incra legs, more on that later) no matter where I grab it. I have the SawStop industrial base, so all four wheels swivel and it glides effortlessly around my garage as is.
    Quote Originally Posted by H. Gregory Porter View Post
    Question 2: If I purchase the 72" rails and mount them flush with the right end of the phenolic extension table, the rails will extend to the left side of the main saw table (at the interface line where the left cast iron wing attaches). The Incra system comes with three mounting clips per rail. This would permit two clips attached to the main cast iron table, and either 1 in the cast iron wing or 1 somehow attached further to the right in the phenolic extension table. I could purchase an additional set of clips to have one in the wing plus one in the extension. How did you attach your rails?
    I have the rails mounted flush with the left end of my table, so it overhangs the right a bit. I did buy an extra set of mounting brackets, but only because they were cheap and I like to over-think things. I have brackets in the far left (Peachtree) wing, two sets in the main table, in the outter-most holes, and the final in the far right extension table. I used the outer sets to help offset the deflection of their weight. I would probably use the extra set they provide on the far right phenolic extension table. You may have to drill a hole in the side, but that is my thought. I might even buy more for the extension tables in this situation as well to help hold them up, but I don’t think it is a must.
    Quote Originally Posted by H. Gregory Porter View Post
    Question 3: if you have the extension table, were you able to use your Sawstop legs, or did you purchase the Incra leg support set?
    I didn’t have the sawstop legs, but I did buy the Incra legs to support the weight of my extra extension table, Ready2Lift router lift, and PC 75182 router. It “held” it just fine (though it did sag), but the saw tipped with minimal pressure. I wouldn’t attempt to use it without them personally. I haven’t messed with it much, but I found the legs are very tricky to adjust where they both support the weight AND are easily movable. I seem to either have the legs not touching the ground, or they drag along anytime I try to move the saw. It is annoying, but I don’t move it much.
    Quote Originally Posted by H. Gregory Porter View Post
    Question 4: Lastly, I have an option to remove the extension table and just use the cast iron table and wings for support. If the blade is centered in that saw, I have 22" of cast iron on each side, plenty for ripping since the rails would cantilever out past the wings. What's your opinion on this option?
    If you were going to take up the space with rails, I would leave the table in place. It gives you another workspace if needed, and will support any boards you’re cutting. The rails sit below the top of the table, so you cannot balance/hold anything directly on them when cutting.
    Last edited by Adam Merritt; 06-20-2017 at 3:11 PM. Reason: broken end quote

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Kincaid View Post
    You are probably binding because of the height of the attachment between the positioner and the fence. Try loosening the two bolts that attach the positioner to the fence and see if it moves without binding. There is a sweet spot attachment height that you have to find. If there is excessive movement when loose then your positioner lock is probably pointing down or up and needs to be adjusted flat to the table surface again. Hope this helps.
    -Brian
    You're not kidding about there being a sweet spot! I have the LS with the 92" rails and although I do like the setup generally I have had to adjust it multiple times over the last year or 2. I totally understand the frustration Paul is having. I recently moved my carriage to the furthest possible distance on the 92" rails to do dados on full height shelves and when I moved it back to the normal position I basically had to go through every installation step to get it square and level and not binding again. Honestly as much as I like this fence and the ability to have 52" of capacity I definitely miss the ease of my biesemeyer fence.

    I don't have the router attachment on my table saw but I do have an out feed and a wing table and I use the 2 clips connected to each side of the saw table and the support legs on the ends and that supports 92" rails just fine. Based on my experience I would personally avoid moving the setup around anymore than absolutely necessary and I would avoid using the rails as handles. I say this as I have found that with my setup any changes in position usually require me to go through an hour or more of adjustment.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Grayslake, IL
    Posts
    37
    I have the Sawstop Professional, the Industrial base, the Incra TS/LS and I used the Sawstop legs. I can jack the base up enough to get the legs in the air and it moves beautifully.
    I have removed the left Sawstop wing and the standard Incra rails fit nicely to close to both edges.
    I only have 2 support pieces holding the rails to the sawstop and I've never had a problem once I got it adjusted.

    The only thing that is a little annoying with my setup is that when I want to use my router I have to either remove the Incra positioner or flip it around. It only take a minute so it hasn't been a real problem.

    One thing to keep in the back of your mind, don't let the incra fence touch the blade or it will fire the safety feature since it's aluminum. Incra recommended to me to put a sacrificial fence on the Incra fence.

    I absolutely love the setup.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Grayslake, IL
    Posts
    37
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul K. Johnson View Post
    Hi Brian,

    I don't want to hijack this thread with my issues. I'll give that a go again but I have played with it multiple times and nothing changed. I don't remember if I tried moving the carriage with the bolts loosened as far as they'll go just to rule it out.
    I second what Brian said.

    What worked for me, after fussing with it for a while, is to put the positioner on the rails like normal, loosen the rails against the saw a little, and put the positioner fence up close to the saw blade over the cast iron. Then I could adjust the rail height ( one mount ) using the positoner itself. Then I moved the positioner to a different location ( other side of the blade I think ) and adjusted the other mount.

    I'm sure I'm not explaining it well but basically I used the positioner to level the rails. Height and being parallel to the cast iron is the most critical piece.

    The other way I got binding at first was that the piece that goes across both rails and locks the positoner wasn't parallel but I found if I just loosened things up and locked the positioner it would almost self level and square so I could tighten things up.

    Mine slides like butter now but was terrible at first.

    Mark and the other folks at Incra are super responsive and helpful if none of this helps.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •