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Thread: Joining wood to make it longer for counter top

  1. #16
    I like the scarph joint idea. I also like the idea of using shorter pieces. I will look into both of these.

    Sean

  2. #17
    Join Date
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    Off hand, I like a scarf joint because of the glue surface. I would practice that if I could ahead of time. If that did not work well, then I would pop over to Lowes and purchase a counter top Miter Bolt Kit. I would use a router to create the channel if it is not already present. I have only used this for 45 degree joints and it worked well. I would also then glue a board across the joint (bottom) to lend extra support.

    Let us know what you choose to do and how it works out.

  3. #18
    When I was faced with this problem for a handrail, I got a finger joint router bit and used it in my shaper. Glued the boards end to end and let dry then ran that through the planer to get good flat surfaces on either side. Worked great.

    fingerjoint - 1.jpg

    fingerjoint - 2.jpg

    fingerjoint - 3.jpg

  4. #19
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    Scarf joint???


    Not for this application.....

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sean Hagerty View Post
    I like the scarph joint idea. I also like the idea of using shorter pieces. I will look into both of these.

    Sean
    Do you have a planer?

  6. #21
    In similar situation I've used pinch dogs on the sides for a good butt joint , then handled the material carefully during unit glue up. You have a number of choices!

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sean Hagerty View Post
    Jim,

    So just using a straight flat butt joint will work? I am using TB3, which has always allowed me to work pieces to get them aligned how I wanted.
    While the end-to-end connection is a "butt joint", remember that each board has other boards surrounding it in a sandwich, other than the two outside boards. (I'd honestly try to source a longer board to make those two outside ones from to eliminate the joint for those) For the field, you're "checker boarding" the components. Someone mentioned biscuits and while they are not "needed" you may find using a small biscuit to insure vertical alignment of those "butt joints" convenient.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #23
    A scarf joint would be perfect for this application. I have made dedicated TS carriages to cut them in the past. 20 degrees is my favourite. Then I make a a glue up fixture to glue the joint. Do all of this oversized and machine back to your dimensions for the glue up. Done well the joints can be almost invisible. This joint is perfect for your application and requires no special tooling.

  9. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by jack duren View Post
    Do you have a planer?
    I do have a planer. I also like the finger joint idea, although simplicity (Scarf joint) usually works best for me.

  10. #25
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    The scarph joint is vastly superior to a finger joint.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  11. #26
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    Simple butt joints at random location work fine. I agree with Jim that it would be good to have the two outside pieces full length if at all possible. There is rarely any need to clamp end to end. You will find that when you have light pressure on the clamps you can tap the ends to tighten the butt joint and it will stay in place. Friction holds them.

    All methods of jointing still show discontinuity so I stay with a butt joint as it is, quick, easy to align and won't force side joints apart if misaligned. Special hardware and/or machining are fun but not necessary. Cheers

  12. #27
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    I would follow Jim Becker's response of simply staggering the joints. My preference would be to use longer members and arrange the joints in a random, but sensible, pattern. Use several culls perpendicular to the length (with wax paper under the culls) to keep the top aligned and plan on sanding the top after glue up. I suspect that I would also size the end grain with watered down TB III, let it dry and use straight TB III on the end grain butt joints. Aesthetically one piece outside members would be a preference, as Jim also mentioned.

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by andy bessette View Post
    The scarph joint is vastly superior to a finger joint.
    Please explain. A finger joint has more glue surface than a scarf joint and is self-registering. A scarf joint is (possibly) easier to cut, but what else makes it superior?
    Last edited by Jim Morgan; 06-19-2017 at 10:58 PM. Reason: Spelling
    -- Jim

    Use the right tool for the job.

  14. #29
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    A finger joint simply transfers all the stress in one small area. It's OK for use on very cheap furniture such as that sold at bargain prices in unfinished condition. A proper scarph joint spreads the load over much more length and is the choice of boat builders and spar makers because of its superiority. An added benefit is that the scarph joint can be nearly undetectable.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  15. #30
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    In the application the OP was talking about (a countertop), there would be no appreciable stress on the joint after assembly; depending on how a finger joint is oriented, it, too, can be virtually invisible.
    -- Jim

    Use the right tool for the job.

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