Joining wood to make it longer for counter top

[Sean Hagerty]

I am making a butcher block counter top (Edge grain) and need the counter to be longer than the lumber I have. What is a good way to join the lumber to make longer pieces? I don't think butting them up end to end will give me a tight seam.

Example. I have 8 foot long lumber but want the counter to be 10 feet.

[Jim Becker]

You will still be "butting" individual pieces, but you should vary/randomize the points where they join across the width. Built that into the design visually so it doesn't look like it was two slabs joined together. You'll probably want to use a glue that has a very long open time so you can get things together, aligned and clamped...and all flat.

[Bill Dufour]

I would add a biscuit at each join to align them, while the glue dries. Be careful of biscuit placement on the edge board so it does not show. How wide is your jointer and planer?
Bil lD

[Sean Hagerty]

Bill,

I made a router planing sled so I'm not worried about using the planer. I have built countertops before, but I always had lumber that was long enough. Just not sure how to join it to make it longer.

[Sean Hagerty]

Jim,

So just using a straight flat butt joint will work? I am using TB3, which has always allowed me to work pieces to get them aligned how I wanted.

[Al Launier]

Could you incorporate a center section with a "built-in design" of oriented wood, such as a cutting board with different wood blocks for contrast, in the table that would then allow you to use the lumber that you have?

[Prashun Patel]

I made a counter this way, "bowling alley" style.
To keep the butt joints together, I half-lapped them and pinned them - but just for the look.

When I have made workbenches with similar laminations, I have NOT added reinforcement to the butt joints, and they haven't opened up.

The theory is that the neighbors keep each other honest by virtue of their large glue area. I have found this to be true. However, if I were to make another show counter this way, I would still belt and suspenders it with dominos or something. Just me.

[Pat Barry]

Just butt join them but do them at random / staggered locations. Make sure to clamp both crosswise to make the lamiantion and end to end to close up those butt joints.

[Hoang N Nguyen]

I built a 10' table for my big green egg awhile back and had to make the top out of 2 pieces. I used zip bolts from lee valley to join them together and it works perfectly. You still see a seam on it but the bolts pull the seams close and you can't feel it when running your hand over it. I also used dowels to help with alignment. http://www.leevalley.com/us/Hardware...586,43588&ap=1

[Bill Dufour]

You can buy longer pipe for your pipe clamps, use couplings, or you can simply hook them together to get the length you need to clamp the butt joints together.
B ill

[andy bessette]

The best method is a scarph joint.

scarf1.gif

[Malcolm McLeod]

Just butt join them but do them at random / staggered locations. Make sure to clamp both crosswise to make the lamiantion and end to end to close up those butt joints.

Did exactly the same on 6' x 7' island top and have had zero butt joint issues.

[John Lankers]

Have you considered scarf joints?

Shoot, I'm a slow typer

[Rich Engelhardt]

So just using a straight flat butt joint will work?

It's a counter top - - the bottom is unseen right?

Put a plate across the glued joint on the back side & it will take an act of God to separate the joint.

[mreza Salav]

butt joint and drive a couple of toed screws to tighten the joints.
In fact I think you'd have a more stable (flat) slab if the pieces are shorter, than longer. It will take away the stress in long grains.