Garage Cabinets Project - Noob

[John Beonme]

Hi Everyone,
I'm new to the forum, but have been reading older posts for a project I will be taking on for my garage. I would like to build a set of cabinets along the entire wall of my garage as pictured below. My plan is to use melamine from a Lumber Yard, which is better quality than the big box stuff. I was thinking 3/4" melamine carcass, 1/4" melamine backing with 3/4" pine cleats top and bottom, and 3/4" MDF painted for the doors. The cabinets will not be on the ground and will have metal legs which is not pictured, to prevent any moisture damage. They will also be screwed onto the wall. Do you think using butt joints with RooGlue clear and Confirmat screws will be good for what I'm doing? Should I rabbet the 3/4" melamine to make the backing flush or just screw them through the entire back portion? My goal is to keep costs down and prevent having to paint the entire insides of the cabinets which is why I would like to avoid plywood.

3 x Pantry Cabinets: 84"H x 30"W x 24"D
3 x Base Cabinets: 36"H x 24"W x 24"D
3 x Wall Cabinets: 18"H x 24"W x 18"D
1 x Above Fridge Cabinet: 18"W x 33"W x 24"D
8 x Top-shelf Wall Cabinets: 24"H x ?W x 24"D - Would like the inside of the cabinets open to be able to store longer items. Was thinking about dividing into two sections.
garagecabs.jpggaragecabssizes.jpg

[John A langley]

Two comments I would use treated 2 x 4 or 2x6 base wrap it with rubber base stronger and easier to keep clean.use half inch backs and screw them on

[Robert Engel]

Hi Everyone,
Do you think using butt joints with RooGlue clear and Confirmat screws will be good for what I'm doing?

I've built a fair number of these type frameless or 32mm system cabs.

I think the Confirmat screws are the best. No glue needed.

Should I rabbet the 3/4" melamine to make the backing flush or just screw them through the entire back portion?

Yes, rabbet the backs to accomodate both 1/4 backing + 3/4 mounting plates.

My goal is to keep costs down and prevent having to paint the entire insides of the cabinets which is why I would like to avoid plywood.

I think melamine cabs are the most cost effective way to build cabs.

Couple suggestions:

1) get Danny Proulxs book on building frameless cabinets. It will be a huge help to you.
2) 5/8 melamine will be sufficient and save even more money.
3) Keep in mind hardware can be a significant expense. I get all my hardware from wwhardware.com. The Euro hinges are very reasonable. They also have the adjustable support feet. I would wrap the base to keep it need. The toe kick clamps on to the feet.
4) I would make the doors out of 5/8 melamine. When banded, they will look good. I avoid dealing with MDF at all costs (dust) + no painting + MDF does not hold screws well.
5. Drill all the holes for shelves/hinges before assembly. You can make a jig or by one.
6. Use the cabinet connector screws they go right through shelf pin holes.
7. Purchase an edge banding trimmer.
8. Purchase the Freud 80 tooth melamine blade.
9. You will be doing a lot of cutting. Both melamine and the glue in particle board warrants a respirator.

I really like the 32mm system. Do all your work in metric I think it works out even better.

[John Beonme]

Two comments I would use treated 2 x 4 or 2x6 base wrap it with rubber base stronger and easier to keep clean.use half inch backs and screw them on

Hi John, I'm not sure what you mean by this. Are you referring to the cabinet legs? What do you mean by wrapping it in rubber?

[John Beonme]

Hi Robert,
Thanks for all the recommendations. I've added the tools you mentioned to my list.

I wanted to stay away from a toe kick because my garage has a slope which is 6 inches high on one side and 2 at the other end. I also like the look of seeing the legs. Preferably I'd have no legs but at 24" deep, I don't want to take a chance for any issues.

The reason I wanted to go MDF doors is that I would like to put a 1/16 edge bevel on it and paint it high gloss with my hvlp. That's why I prefer not to paint the cabinets and spend more time on the doors.

Do do you think I should get the double sided melamine blade or is the one you mentioned enough?

How would you recommend making the very top cabinets without dividers between about 4 of the cabinets for longer items(xmas tree)?

[David Utterback]

Since you are running wall-to-wall, determine the corner angles before construction. You may need some adjustment or fillers for the ends of the cabinets. Good luck.

[Victor Robinson]

If there's an Ikea near you, it might be worth pricing out the cabinet frames (their kitchen line, which is more heavy duty than the closet line). You can still modify them and construct them to your desires, but having precut melamine with 32mm system holes may be worth it. You can still make your own doors.

I'm a "do it from scratch" guy myself, but in this case I can tell you you're barely saving money doing it this way. And you'll still get plenty of DIY satisfaction from modifying and doing the fronts. Just think of it as saving yourself the time and effort of cutting large box parts from a stack of melamine.

[John Beonme]

If there's an Ikea near you, it might be worth pricing out the cabinet frames (their kitchen line, which is more heavy duty than the closet line). You can still modify them and construct them to your desires, but having precut melamine with 32mm system holes may be worth it. You can still make your own doors.

I'm a "do it from scratch" guy myself, but in this case I can tell you you're barely saving money doing it this way. And you'll still get plenty of DIY satisfaction from modifying and doing the fronts. Just think of it as saving yourself the time and effort of cutting large box parts from a stack of melamine.

Hi Victor,
I already priced out Ikea and Lowes. The killer is the 3 pantry size cabinets which are around $600 each at both locations. For a bit over that, I can buy the material for all the cabinets.

[Matt Day]

I did a melamine closet so here are my tips.

Get the Freud blade as recommended already.

First cut should be a scoring cut (blade 1/16-1/8" above the table.

Get the a double sided trimmer and the end trimmer. As well as the end trimmer shown here at Lee Valley:
http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/pag...,43738&p=42536

The fastcap peel & stick was awesome. I couldn't imagine using iron on after how easy the fast cap was. Get a good roller too.

I used FastCap's flushmount system and it worked pretty good.

Those are A LOT of cabinets. Should keep ya busy for a while!

[Victor Robinson]

Hi Victor,
I already priced out Ikea and Lowes. The killer is the 3 pantry size cabinets which are around $600 each at both locations. For a bit over that, I can buy the material for all the cabinets.

Hey John...I was talking about just the boxes. You can do your own front, and add whatever base you want (though Ikea uses the same black plastic adjustable feet that take the toe kicks that a lot of people recommend).

For example, a 30Wx24Dx80H pantry cabinet box is $109 in white melamine. I'm sure you can build a melamine box that size for cheaper...but how much cheaper? High quality 3/4" melamine runs you what, $40/sheet? 50? You'd need a full sheet of 3/4 to make that box, plus 1/2 a sheet of 1/2 or 1/4 for the back. So you're in for around $70 in just the melamine alone. Then are you going to edge band it? Drill 32mm system holes? Doesn't cost you that much as edge banding is cheap, but it's a lot of time. Ikea melamine, at least the stuff they use for their kitchen cabs, is very very good quality. I'd estimate the boxes for all your cabs would run you about $1000.

I'm not saying buy the whole shebang at Ikea. Just the boxes. Save yourself the mind-numbing and back-breaking labor of building boxes out of melamine. If there was anything you were doing that would end being higher quality than Ikea frames, then sure. But it doesn't sound like it.

[Victor Robinson]

[QUOTE=John Beonme;2700963]Hi Everyone,

3 x Pantry Cabinets: 84"H x 30"W x 24"D $109 x 3
3 x Base Cabinets: 36"H x 24"W x 24"D $57 x 3
3 x Wall Cabinets: 18"H x 24"W x 18"D $34 x 3
1 x Above Fridge Cabinet: 18"W x 33"W x 24"D $45
8 x Top-shelf Wall Cabinets: 24"H x ?W x 24"D - ~$50 x 8