100 yr old bandsaw

[steve morris6]

here's an oldie for bandsaw fans:
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i picked up this 1915 crescent 20 a couple of years ago, here are a few pics of the restoration

first the pic on kijiji
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it was powered by a tiny 1/4 hp motor hanging on a 1 inch bolt through the frame. the po was using iot to cut brass and aluminum, he was a hobby machinist

they didnt care too much about esthetic in 1915, lots of filing and filling before new paint

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i made new guides so that i could increase the resaw

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there was no lower guide, so added a similar one

the saw is now powered by a 1940's 1hp delta repulse induction motor and added the guards. interestingly, the saw does not use tyres, there is a step machined on the rim for tooth clearance

[Chris Fournier]

Gorgeous! Like the guides, nice design. I would personally want to be sure that the blade can't run off the wheels and into you. I love old iron and this qualifies.

[steve morris6]

ive had a blade break once, no big deal, no flying fragments,no gushing blood, the 2 pieces just fell to the ground before i even realized it happened

all of my machinery is 1950's or older, mostly 40's and 50's but a couple of prewaw pieces too

[Wayne Lomman]

It's good to see an old machine like this. I would sincerely recommend better guarding though. Not all blade breakages are so benign. Cheers

[Darcy Warner]

Meh, I run a couple saws without guards. One has just a cover on the bottom, other is open.

Every time I have broke a blade on a fully guarded saw it wraps around everything making a big rats nest.

I leave my unguarded BS right next to my unguarded 30" jointer.

[Wayne Lomman]

So we are advocating unguarded machinery now?

[Darcy Warner]

Do as you see fit, I will do as I see fit.

[steve morris6]

let's not get into a guard vs no guard issue, im comfortable with the guards on it except id really like to coverup the belt drive

back to the saw, the lower wheel runs in babbitt, it was in good shape, so just a little scraping

001 (2).JPGthe shaft runs very nicely, a couple of drops of oil when it gets warm
the upper spindle is a 1 inch steel shaft running directly in the castiron housing. again in was in great shape, it also gets a regular oiling
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interestingly, the table quadrant section of the main casting and the hole for the upper guide rod are also babbit lined

[Bradley Gray]

I have a 32" Crescent a bit older. I'm still using the original guides.

I've had this saw about 40 years and use it almost daily, but it doesn't like wide blades. I've always thought it was the babbit bearings that limited blade tension.

[Darcy Warner]

Probably more to do with design of saw. Most older saws were designed for .025" thick bands. Most wide bands are .035 to .045. I run thinner bands on all my saws.

[Kevin Jenness]

Here's my 36" Crescent, presumably a bit newer as it has ball bearings. The crappy plywood upper door/guard doesn't prevent the saw from handling a 1" carbide blade with the original Carter guides.Crescent 36 bandsaw 001.jpgCrescent 36 bandsaw 002.jpgCrescent 36 bandsaw 003.jpg

[Darcy Warner]

That is a Wright guide
Carter wheels though.

[Kevin Jenness]

Darcy,

Thanks for the correction. I searched the web for Wright guides and found this page: http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1950/2154.pdf. I had sourced an upper backup bearing from the manufacturer many years ago but mistakenly believed that it was for a Carter guide. Apparently Black Diamond is still in business.

I have to say these old solid jaw guides work better than the recent ball-bearing Carter guide "upgrade" we put on an Aggazani at my last gig. About once a decade I true them up to compensate for wear.

[Darcy Warner]

Wright style guides are the best ever made.

Numerous sources out there for replacement parts for those guides.