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Thread: Treasure, uhhh rust, hunting bounty

  1. #16
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    I hope your knee replacement goes well George.

    From all the folks I have known to have this done, including my wife, if possible have it done in two operations instead of all at once.

    Of course if you are one who likes to get it all over that is your choice.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matthew Hutchinson477 View Post
    That's correct from what I read, Patrick. I couldn't find any sign of Huot actually making bits but I didn't do any reading until after that first post. I actually don't know what make the bits are but the case is only missing about 25% of them and the ones in there are all in good condition. I don't know if there's a way to tell what kind of steel they're made of but I can't imagine its anything other than high carbon or, if I got lucky, HSS.
    Just set your drill to its fastest speed, chuck up the biggest bit, and whale on some piece[s] of hard scrap until smoke pours out. If the bill still cuts after that then it's probably HSS. If not, well...

    [in case it isn't obvious, that was not a remotely serious suggestion]
    Last edited by Patrick Chase; 06-29-2017 at 12:50 PM.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by george wilson View Post
    I could offer to make you a dog,but I am getting ready to get my knees replaced
    Good luck!

  4. #19
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    Thank you,Jim. They don't do them both at once any more. Too hard on the patient.

    Drills are just about invariably stamped or at least etched on the shank with the size and "HSS". It is very likely that your drills are HSS,as I never heard of a remotely modern drill set that wasn't HSS. Of course,if they are Asian,everything goes. That includes only the most common sizes being hardened,such as 1/8,3/16,1/4. They ASSUME that the average homer owner will only use the common sizes. They may assume all they want! But,I will continue to taunt them a second,3rd,and 4th time!!!

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by george wilson View Post
    The float toothed tool is an auto body worker's float for hollow places. Really for cutting lead. Possibly Bondo. It won't do much good in wood,though,except to leave bodacious ()chatter marks.

    Nice vise,though. I'd drive that brass dog out. Possibly relieving the pressure in it by drilling holes as large as possible FIRST,lest you crack the rather thin cast iron around the hole. That hammered and tight peened brass is lucky it hasn't split the cast iron around the hole. HEED THESE WORDS!!! Then,make at least,a hard wood one. I'd use brass myself,but have the means.

    I could offer to make you a dog,but I am getting ready to get my knees replaced,then TRY to help a museum silversmith with no home shop to make a pair of goblets. Who knows how long that will take? And,I'd need the vise to get accurate measurements from down to .001" to get a sliding fit.

    Good luck with the surgery and I wish you a speedy recovery--total knee replacements are no joke.

    As for the vise dog...I'll probably be making one out of brass myself. I don't have much in the way of machining equipment but I have a generous friend with a good shop so between that and hand tools I can make one without too much trouble. I started another thread in the metalworking forum asking for advice on how to get that dog out. Long story short I tried to use a small pry bar initially but it wasn't going anywhere and I worry about breaking the cast iron housing. My next thought was to apply some heat but I don't know how that might affect or possibly damage the iron. So it looks like it'll have to be drilled out. Oh well.

  6. #21
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    I started another thread in the metalworking forum asking for advice on how to get that dog out. Long story short I tried to use a small pry bar initially but it wasn't going anywhere and I worry about breaking the cast iron housing.
    Does the slotted screw in front of the brass dog hold the dog in place?

    My first thought is to drill a hole in the dog and tap it for a long bolt. Then a piece of pipe with a washer if needed to use like a slide hammer to extract it. It would be easier to tell if the vise was here or I was there. As it is there is a whole continent between us.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Koepke View Post
    Does the slotted screw in front of the brass dog hold the dog in place?

    My first thought is to drill a hole in the dog and tap it for a long bolt. Then a piece of pipe with a washer if needed to use like a slide hammer to extract it. It would be easier to tell if the vise was here or I was there. As it is there is a whole continent between us.

    jtk
    The set screw came out easily but that thing is still stuck in there pretty well. What you described is basically my plan. The dog is partially hollow and there's a spring placed in the hole to push the dog up. So there isn't a ton of brass to drill through--an inch at the most. My only concern is that when the brass was hammered on it might have mushroomed out a little bit and conformed tightly to the inside of the iron case. If that's the case then pulling on a threaded bolt probably won't work and I'll have to do it the tedious way.

  8. #23
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    If that's the case then pulling on a threaded bolt probably won't work and I'll have to do it the tedious way.
    That is why I suggested using a long bolt with a short piece of iron pipe. Instead of pulling, the pipe is rapidly slid up the shank of the bolt until it strikes the head with enough force to, hopefully, extract the brass dog.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Koepke View Post
    That is why I suggested using a long bolt with a short piece of iron pipe. Instead of pulling, the pipe is rapidly slid up the shank of the bolt until it strikes the head with enough force to, hopefully, extract the brass dog.

    jtk
    I don't mean to question you-I'm just curious-but why would using something like a slide hammer be preferable to just yanking on the bolt?

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matthew Hutchinson477 View Post
    I don't mean to question you-I'm just curious-but why would using something like a slide hammer be preferable to just yanking on the bolt?
    Because you have to overcome static friction to get it to move, and that requires a lot of instantaneous force. You can apply vastly higher loads via impact vs yanking.

    It's called "percussive maintenance", a.k.a. "beating on something until it's either fixed or irreparably broken".

  11. #26
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    +1 on what Patrick said. A good jolt tends to move many things better than a good tug.

    Have the vise secured in some way. Stand on it or have it so you can be pulling downward on it. You don't want it flopping about.

    You may want to spray or drip your favorite lubricant for unsticking things on the work.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  12. #27
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    I don't think that you should take a torch to it in an effort to get it to release a bit because of heat. Brass, if thats what the dog is, expands significantly more than cast iron as a function of temperature. I think the previous ideas of drilling a hole in the middle, tapping the hole for a bolt, and then put a long bolt in the tapped hole. Put a big washer under the bolt head. You can probably just pull the bolt up with a bit of leverage (straight up though) putting pressure on the big washer, and the dog will come along obediently like a good dog will.

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