Full size rip tpi?

[Archie England]

Thanks Pete, That ... makes me nervous trying out one of my older saws with the unknown service. May bring a older junker craftsman in for a test run.

Michael, the junker sacrifice is not a bad idea; but there are reputable sources for saw sharpening, such as http://www.rmsaws.com/p/about-us.html.

Gearing up to do it yourself is a little pricey because you must make or buy a reliable vise, various saw files (that's how I first met Pete Teran's web site), and (if your eyes are a tad older) a light with magnifier.

There's hours of great reading here on the forum from some superb saw sharpeners; just start searching.

In the end, I bought one of Marv Werner's saws freshly sharpened and have used it as a visible guide since then. As an educator, I consider such a purchase as the cost of learning (aka tuition). Though I can learn from reading, I also like to feel and see the end goal, as well.

I'm getting better (probably because I have too many saws to practice on) but still would not be comfortable sharpening other peoples saws. It's rather tedious.

[lowell holmes]

If you re-file the tooth line smooth and re-tooth, you can make the tooth spacing anything you want. I like having rip sharpened teeth at 8 and 10 tpi instead of only 5 1/2 .

The coarse saws cut fast, but rough. I have both and can get the cut I want. That is the advantage of filing junker saws. I have one junker that has a new handle and is re-filed.
It's not a junker any more.

[David Eisenhauer]

I started out as a bridge carpenter many years ago and often times we worked out in the middle of electricity-less nowhere. Yes we used generators, but also did a lot of hand sawing that brought me back to my ranch/farm handsawing roots. For what I call "carpentry" ripping work as opposed to "woodworking" ripping with a full sized handsaw, I would prefer a 5-1/2 ppi to be the finest cutting saw I had and would grab a 5 if available. I have never had the opportunity to try anything rougher cutting but have often wished to try out a 4 or 4-1/2. The initial start is a little trickier, but once your saw is on about it's second stroke, rougher is better.

[Michael J Evans]

Michael, the junker sacrifice is not a bad idea; but there are reputable sources for saw sharpening, such as http://www.rmsaws.com/p/about-us.html.

Gearing up to do it yourself is a little pricey because you must make or buy a reliable vise, various saw files (that's how I first met Pete Teran's web site), and (if your eyes are a tad older) a light with magnifier.

I have no problem sharpening it, it's just a matter of time issue lately. Been working 14+ hrs a day and with two little boys it leaves me less than an ideal amount of time. I figured if I had new teeth punched that would save me some time and I have files / vise to sharpen, and with a rip cut with fewer tpi it shouldn't take to long to sharpen.

[lowell holmes]

I have no problem sharpening it, it's just a matter of time issue lately. Been working 14+ hrs a day and with two little boys it leaves me less than an ideal amount of time. I figured if I had new teeth punched that would save me some time and I have files / vise to sharpen, and with a rip cut with fewer tpi it shouldn't take to long to sharpen.

I know you take care of the boys, there is always time for saws. Speaking from experience, the kids are with you for a season, but after the season, things change. Fortunately, I live 1/2 mile from three grand kids and 10 miles from two more.

[Michael J Evans]

On a somewhat separate note, is there a way to tell if a saw file is bad?
I bought 30-40 files at an estate sale and 10 - 15 of them are old USA Atkins,kerney, and I believe some disston saw files. Various sizes, I got them for $2 so no loss if they don't have any use. Just don't know how to tell if they have any life in them?

[James Waldron]

In keeping with the theory of different strokes for different folks, I have two main rip saws. I have a 4 ppi 26 inch hand saw for most of my rough stock, which I normally get in 8/4, that does really well. (As others have noted, it take some practice and care to start a cut.) Then I have a 20 inch 8 ppi panel saw I use for +/- 4/4 stock. Both have "minimal" rake at 4* and cut fast as a result.

When properly sharp, they are good in hard maple; as the cutters wear, the cut slows and announces the need for sharpening. In cherry or walnut or softwoods, they still cut pretty well well after hard maple starts talking back. These things are a bit relative. And 4* rake is a challenge too when starting a cut. Anyone who has limited sawing experience should probably stick to 8* or more of rake or plan to practice a LOT before working on expensive wood.

I have a variety of hand planes to finish rip cuts, so I don't worry too much about how smooth these saws cut. What I work at is assuring that they cut straight and square. Once a saw is set, sharpened and tuned, cutting straight and square is mostly sawyer technique.

At one point, I relied on a 6 ppi hand saw for 8/4 stock. Short rips were not a lot of fun. Long ones were exhausting. Resawing was painfully slow and unacceptable. Once I tried a friend's 4 ppi saw, I jumped to make the transition. It was a bit more difficult to start, but a bit of practice sorted that out fairly quickly. The 6 ppi saw quickly found a new home.

[Nicholas Lawrence]

Not a file expert, but some things to look for:
-Are they in boxes, with paper or something between them, or are they loose and banging against each other?
-Are they rusted?
-When you look at them up close, are the teeth clean and even, or are they rough and uneven?
-And of course when you try them, you will figure out pretty quickly if they have any life left.

[steven c newman]

No. 7.JPG
Filed rip..7ppi
saw file holder.JPG
What I use to hold a file..
spare file.JPG
Usually pick one up at Menards..
saw vise.JPG
Have an older saw vise, seems to work...
crime scene.JPG
Test drive. After the second push-pull, it cuts very fast ( needed to stone the burrs, though)
OW!.JPG
Maybe a little too fast? Note to shelf...use something other than a hand to hold the wood still while sawing....

[Archie England]

On a somewhat separate note, is there a way to tell if a saw file is bad?

When my file starts skating (slipping) or skidding over a tooth or when it no longer grabs or shows resistance--it's then that I conclude that particular corner is shot. I try to follow the rule of thumb of keeping only half the height in the gullet.

[lowell holmes]

I have an antique saw vise I never use. I made the vice featured here.


http://www.leevalley.com/us/newslett...2/article2.htm

[Archie England]

Yikes, Steven. Glad it wasn't a power-file, the damage could have taken off the whole finger.

Sorry for your pain. This reality of accidental rakings across a freshly sharpened saw does hurt (and should be removed from the normal tests to determine tooth sharpness).

[Patrick Chase]

That clears up a few things for me, and simultaneously makes me nervous trying out one of my older saws with the unknown service. May bring a older junker craftsman in for a test run.

You could also send it to Pete. He can't say that on SMC of course.

I have no affiliation with him and actually haven't sent any of my saws for sharpening as I'm teaching myself to file (and probably will be for a very very long time). I've seen saws that Pete either made (Independence Saw, a.k.a. the company that became Lie-Nielsen's saw business) or sharpened, though, and they were good.

Somebody linked rmsaws above, and Mark Harrell at Bad Axe does good work - I've bought a carcase new from him and thought it well tuned.

[steven c newman]

About the third or fourth time through the wood.....my "Saw Stop" finger got in the way of the moving saw....game over. The cut was just one swipe...barely see the scar, now.

[Michael J Evans]

Not a file expert, but some things to look for:
-Are they in boxes, with paper or something between them, or are they loose and banging against each other?
-Are they rusted?
-When you look at them up close, are the teeth clean and even, or are they rough and uneven?
-And of course when you try them, you will figure out pretty quickly if they have any life left.

No there we're / are in a plastic tray that was in a drawer. Some are slightly rusty others not so much. I need to closely inspect the teeth to see if any wear. I suspect the guy was either a old carpenter or neander, so the files are probably toast. all the saws for sale at the estate were very sharp and in good use able shape. The panel d8 I bought cuts like a dream ( my best cutting saw) and had a beautiful handle and I assume blued plate. I had an opportunity to buy a full carpenter's / joiners chest for $90 bucks and passed, still kicking myself over that one.