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Thread: 3rd car garage - Which table saw option works best?

  1. #16
    A couple of other things to keep in mind:

    1 - you will need 220V lines; and,

    2 - dust collection is a must-have for this and will restrict your ability to move things around.

    Combine those two and what you will probably end up with is a fixed position (or nearly so) for your table saw and a plan to move at least one car out when you need to use a large mobile device like a planer, jointer, or shaper - just put those on wheels and park them near the door on "your" side until you need them.

    Further.. if your garage is long enough you might consider running a fixed work bench with drawers along the whole front - this will give you storage space and still let you work with at least one car in the garage.

    And, incidently, don't let the sawstop pro or con people influence you too much - it depends on how careful you are and whether you need to buy insurance because others are going to use the saw. Sawstop is worth its weight in premiums.. and the extra cost if you're the only user can be thought of as a premium you pay to protect yourself against yourself.

  2. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by andy bessette View Post
    If you continually find it difficult to stay focused, if your mind constantly wanders while running power tools, if you have extremely poor hand/eye coordination, if mechanical things confuse you, if working with tools has always been a mystery to you, if you are constantly injuring yourself on the simplest tasks, get the Saw Stop.
    Meaning you shouldn't be a woodworker in the first place.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Sioux Falls, SD
    Posts
    372
    I'm with Andrew on this. I jut sold my Rigid contractor saw with the out-wing having a router mounted under it and bought a good jobsite saw. I then rebuilt my router table and made it a folding table off of a Workmate I had that was collecting dust. I hang it on some heavy duty wall hooks when not in use. This has opened up my space considerably. While the full size saw was nice, all I really need a table saw for (need?) is ripping. I have a 12" sliding miter set up for cross cuts and a 14" bandsaw for every other cut. I only miss the cast iron top for the Maglock featherboard. Otherwise I'm very happy with my setup.
    USMC '97-'01

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Camas, Wa
    Posts
    3,855
    Put everything on wheels. This is 1/3 of a 3 car garage. There is a grizzly cabinet saw in there.
    Attachment 362824
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Cary Falk; 06-28-2017 at 6:42 AM.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Norfolk, UK
    Posts
    94
    The mass an rigidity of a cabinet saw is certainly warranted depending on what you're doing. I couldn't wait to get rid of my contract saw to get my cabinet saw. I'm only in half a 2 car garage (other half is either the car or spray booth) but i still have plenty of room to move around my 52" 3hp tablesaw, 14" bandsaw, 20" drill press, compound mitresaw, CNC router, 89" edge sander, 2hp dust collector and router table with two decent sized work benches. It was a challenge to figure out the layout, but I wouldn't go back to a contract saw for the work I do.

    I buy all my hardwood lumber as 8/4" 10' lengths 10-15" wide, and need to resaw these down to 1" and 1/2" sections. The bandsaw was great, but at only 1hp it got bogged down pretty easily, and the surface finish wasn't that great. With the 3hp table saw I can just bog it down if my wife is pulling on the lumber as I'm pushing it, running a 12" blade. The saw doesn't vibrate and shudder as I do this, every contract saw I've used wouldn't cope with half the wood.

    From there I start doing very fine bevels, veneer re-saws, etc needing 0.003" or better accuracy - again, contractor saw's I've used won't give me the accuracy I require.



    Perhaps Rudy can give us more details on what he wants to use the saw for?

  6. #21
    Adam, my current setup is very close to your setup. My issues (which may be overrated) is that I long for a good ???? table saw that is more accurate then what I have.

    And to be clear I can get pretty darn good cuts from my job site table saw, but it is a lot more work then I would like. Also just having that nice big solid table would be so nice.

    Thanks for all the input. This helps trying to figure out what is the right table saw for me.

    And in regards to the SS talk. Yes they are beautiful and safe. Tried one out at a show and it truly was nice, but they are pretty expensive insurance.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,688
    With a small space, mobility is your friend...and you can accomodate that with the cabinet saw of your choice, a mobile base and a router table wing, such as one of the cast iron products or something made of composite materials. That gives you a lot of functionality and accuracy, but lets you spread things out while working and pull things back to accommodate the perceived expectation that the other bays will contain vehicles "from time to time". That said, your dust control system should also likely be mobile to accomodate this flexibility, too...until, of course, you say "the heck with this 'garage for vehicles thing' and take over more space permanently.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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