Tool rolls for chisels: does this ever actually work?

[Matthew Cashman]

I'm curious to hear if anyone successfully uses tool rolls for chisel storage. It's possible I'm doing something wrong, but I constantly end up cutting the tool roll material (whether nylon, canvas, or leather). Chisels seem too sharp and pointy (the 90* corners) for this!

I can imagine it working with some sort of plastic cap for the chisel, but I'd worry that will roll over the edge or similar with time. It also partly defeats the purpose of the tool roll.

So, has anyone come up with a way of doing this effectively? Thanks for the perspective.

Matt

[Patrick Chase]

I'm curious to hear if anyone successfully uses tool rolls for chisel storage. It's possible I'm doing something wrong, but I constantly end up cutting the tool roll material (whether nylon, canvas, or leather). Chisels seem too sharp and pointy (the 90* corners) for this!

I mostly use carving-tool-style rolls where the handles go into the sleeves and the edges stick out [*]. I don't have much trouble with those. I also have the LV woven-Kevlar chisel roll (bought mostly on a lark) and haven't managed to cut through the reinforced strip where the edges go.

TFWW suggests putting a balled up piece of fabric into the bottom of each pocket to protect against cuts. That should work just fine IMO and is a lot cheaper than a Kevlar roll :-).

Finally, I've never seen a tool guard roll a chisel edge over. It takes a lot of force (say, as generated by a mallet hit) to roll a 20+ degree tool steel edge.

[*] If you think that sliding chisel edges in does a number on tool roll sleeves, try it with a deep gouge.

[Mike Henderson]

I keep all my chisels and carving tools in rolls. As Patrick pointed out, you put the handle end into the pockets. There are two reasons for doing that - you discovered one, which is the tools cut the roll if you put the sharp end into the pocket. The other reason, especially for carving tools, is that you want to see the cutting end when you go to select your tool. If you put sharp end in the pockets, you'd be pulling all your tools out looking for the shape you want.

With bench chisels, it's the same thing. You can see the width of the chisel before you select it. The downside is that you may brush a tool when reaching for one and cut yourself.

Mike

[I often have to transport my chisels (I teach) so having them in rolls works well for me.]

[lowell holmes]

I've kept my good chisels in a leather roll for 10-15 years. I also have plastic shoe boxes with chisels in them.

[Matthew Hutchinson477]

If you're a little obsessive (like myself) you can use those little silicon/plastic chisel edge guards while keeping the chisels in rolls.

[Jim Koepke]

Keeping my chisels or gouges in a roll has never appealed to me.

When first starting to accumulate chisels it was easy until the herd kept growing.

Here is one of my solutions:

Box for Chisels.jpg

Dowels let in to the sides and ends keep the chisels/gouges separated.

Easy to keep them in order and move them around.

jtk

[William Adams]

I've been considering the 3D knitted chisel tool roll which Lee Valley sells:

http://www.leevalley.com/us/gifts/page.aspx?p=71331

but I worry that it'll be too large for any of my tool boxes once filled, and that I'll find it awkward to open / unroll and that it takes up more space than I can spare.

[Mike Henderson]

I've been considering the 3D knitted chisel tool roll which Lee Valley sells:

http://www.leevalley.com/us/gifts/page.aspx?p=71331

but I worry that it'll be too large for any of my tool boxes once filled, and that I'll find it awkward to open / unroll and that it takes up more space than I can spare.

If you go with a tool roll, get one that has pockets on both sides of the roll. If you get one that only has pockets on one side, it won't roll up easily. The big stuff (the handles) will make one side of the roll big when you roll it and the other side will be loose. Rolled up chisels are about the most compact form of storage for chisels, and they make the chisels portable.

Here's a picture of one of my chisel rolls. Here, rolled up, with a rule to show size:
ToolRoll001.jpg

Then, unrolled:
ToolRoll002.jpg

I have a lot of chisels. Here they are in rolls:
ToolRoll003.jpg

My wife told me I should sell some of them, but your know how that is.

Mike

[And just to show some of my chisels, this roll has a set of 10 Witherby bevel side chisels, from 1/8" to 1 1/2" on one side of the roll and a set of 10 Swan firmer (square side) chisels from 1/8" to 1 1/2" on the other side.
ToolRoll004.jpg

This roll is Pigsticker chisels, from 1/8" to 3/4". All are Ward, except the 3/4": I should make a new handle for the 3/4". I don't like what the previous owner did.]
ToolRoll005.jpg

[Dave Zellers]

I've always had my chisels in a leather roll and never experienced a problem, even with storing them bevel-in. Of course you want the leather to be thick and tough. One thing I've always done is insert them bevel down which raises the cutting edge so it's less likely to do any damage on the way in. When I was starting out 45 years ago, there was a woman skilled in working leather locally that made chisel rolls for lots of the young craftsmen.
It seems like so many other things- treat it gently and you are less likely to experience problems. A tool roll or chisel roll is really handy for taking out into the field.

[bridger berdel]

I have tried chisel rolls a few times, but the chisels always end up cutting through. The best i did was a roll i made out of very heavy canvas, with a length of 1" fat rope stitched into the bottoms of the pockets. It lasted about 4 or 5 years as my jobsite chisel roll before it cut through. I now have a fitted box for that set of chisels. In the shop i keep them in drawers.

[Phil Mueller]

Thanks Mike! Another enlightening “duh” moment for me. I wondered how people could like chisel rolls and then you point out the two side pocket roll and handle in first way of doing it. I think you just cost me a couple of new chisel rolls. But it’s greatly appreciated.

[Mike Henderson]

Thanks Mike! Another enlightening “duh” moment for me. I wondered how people could like chisel rolls and then you point out the two side pocket roll and handle in first way of doing it. I think you just cost me a couple of new chisel rolls. But it’s greatly appreciated.

You're welcome. I made some of those chisel rolls, but the ones I bought I got from Woodcraft. It's been a while but I don't think the rolls are very expensive.

Mike

[Stanley Covington]

I'm curious to hear if anyone successfully uses tool rolls for chisel storage. It's possible I'm doing something wrong, but I constantly end up cutting the tool roll material (whether nylon, canvas, or leather). Chisels seem too sharp and pointy (the 90* corners) for this!

I can imagine it working with some sort of plastic cap for the chisel, but I'd worry that will roll over the edge or similar with time. It also partly defeats the purpose of the tool roll.

So, has anyone come up with a way of doing this effectively? Thanks for the perspective.

Matt

Cloth or leather tool rolls work fine, and are especially useful for carrying chisels and other tools like files and putty knives and layout tools to the jobsite. Not so convenient for day-to-day storage IMO, since you must unroll the roll, and sort for the chisel or tool you need.

One concern is, as you noted, protection for and from the cutting edges. Another is rust. Cloth and leather can encourage rust to develop in some circumstances. I know this from bitter experience.

The best solution I have found is to make small sleeves for chisels from the clear, hardish plastic used for packaging many things nowadays. Cut it, bend it, glue it, and you have a free sleeve which keeps the blade from cutting through the roll and then into your hand, and also protects the blade from rust.

Thin cardboard or even newspaper work too, if you oil the blades first.

[Patrick Chase]

The best solution I have found is to make small sleeves for chisels from the clear, hardish plastic used for packaging many things nowadays. Cut it, bend it, glue it, and you have a free sleeve which keeps the blade from cutting through the roll and then into your hand, and also protects the blade from rust.

I use 7.5 or 10 mil mylar sheet (the kind that artists use to make stencils) to make similar sleeves for my paint/finish brushes. As you say it can be folded and glued into just about any profile. You can heat-stake it instead of glueing if you want to get really fancy.

[Stanley Covington]

I use 7.5 or 10 mil mylar sheet (the kind that artists use to make stencils) to make similar sleeves for my paint/finish brushes. As you say it can be folded and glued into just about any profile. You can heat-stake it instead of glueing if you want to get really fancy.

I bet that would work really well too.