Seeking advice on making plywood shelves for paint cans

[John K Jordan]

My shop shelves often support heavy things. I like to use 1x12 pine shelving board instead of plywood since I don't have to cut panels. If there is enough room under the shelf, I simply add plenty of shelf brackets for support. For the shop I don't much care if the brackets are pretty.

I put up some shelves where there was not room underneath for brackets, for example when mounted immediately above a 5' wide double door. In this case I built double shelves for strength: a sort of open-backed cabinet made with two shelves one above the other, with vertical 1x12 dividers between them. Glue and screws from above and below. This is quite strong since the two shelves support each other. I just used butt joints at each divider with 3" deck screws into end grain into the dividers, but if I had thought it needed even more strength I would have glued each divider into a 3/4" dado.

I fastened each divider to the wall with brackets I made from aluminum angle iron and a few brackets underneath the shelves where possible. In my shop they are fastened to 1/2" plywood walls but if attaching to sheet rock I'd space the dividers so each bracket would fall on a stud.

I've also made shelves like this even more like a cabinet with a plywood back and fastened to the wall just like mounting kitchen cabinets. They are quite rigid with both shelves and dividers fastened to the backing ply every few inches with screws and glue.

JKJ

[Pat Barry]

I agree with those saying to edge the front of the shelf with something to stiffen it up. I would use a simple 1x2 (vertical orientation of the x2 dimension). I would glue it to the front edge of the shelf. You want more strength, then go with a stronger wood (ie: oak / ash for example) and if you want even more strength go with a piece of plywood ripped to 1x2 dimension or even the aluminum angle 'iron' and your shelves will be plenty strong.

[Mike Manning]

The paint shelf is done. I used 3/4" dado joints (1/4" depth) for the three shelves and overlapping double rabbet joints for the top. 1/2" plywood for the back as suggested. I additionally added under the middle and top shelf (not the bottom shelf) a 3/4" piece of plywood across the 36" width for extra support. Glued the joints and tacked with 18gauge 2 1/4" brads. It feels pretty solid and I think this will work well enough. I've got a french cleat on the back and will put it up at my son's shop this evening. Thanks for all the suggestions guys! It was definitely helpful as always!!

Mike

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